BIG PROBLEM after replacing spark plugs
01-25-2012, 09:01 PM
#61
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after pulling my 22r (Carb, mechanical fuel pump)... sns doing some work, rear/front mains timing chain etc...
put it back in the truck and the fuel pump had actually failed. drove me nuts figuring out why it wouldn't run! lol I got an extra fuel pump in my box now because freaky weirs failures do occur, never to prepared!
put it back in the truck and the fuel pump had actually failed. drove me nuts figuring out why it wouldn't run! lol I got an extra fuel pump in my box now because freaky weirs failures do occur, never to prepared!
01-26-2012, 07:59 AM
#62
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well guess what guys, it's been in the shop for two days now and they called and said it was the fuel pump. I guess it just happen to fail for some reason in the meantime of all the work that was done on it. it had been failing for a couple months before because like I think I said before the engine would crap out at 3,500rps and up and it's fuel injected so hopefully that's everything. can't wait to get it back on the road! thanks again everyone for the help I'm staying positive and just saying all the extra work I put into it was just learning the odds and end of the truck. I learned a lot in this whole process actually glad it happen because next time, if it's something i can't find it's going straight to the shop rather then trying to go threw everything to find the problem.
02-01-2012, 04:47 PM
#63
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yeah I hear you guys! i got the truck back about an hour ago its still new to the brand new fuel pump and it's still getting used to the new water pump as-well. when I put the new water pump and timing belt in it, it idled so nice and low and sounded so good. now i got it back drove it around for awhile but it's idling abnormal now i let it sit and run for about 20 mins but it wont settle down. should I just wait and let stuff settle in or should I find a way to ajust the idle. it's idling at about 1,000 - 1,200 rps right now in park its usualy at like 600 or 700rps not sure. what do you guys think?
02-01-2012, 07:02 PM
#66
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ECU stores codes and expected responses from sensors. Clearing by disconnecting wipes memory clean, and ECU has to run through a couple cycles measuring input values, and compares them. It then continues to look for variances as it runs.
I usually start three times and everything is good within a couple of miles of driving.
I usually start three times and everything is good within a couple of miles of driving.
02-01-2012, 07:23 PM
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and that's it? just disconnect the negative don't try and start it or anything? and I put a new camshaft position sensor in it while it was not running so that could be it too
02-01-2012, 07:30 PM
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Yep. That's it. I let it sit for a couple of minutes. On another vehicle to make sure it clears, I turn key to start and then off a couple of times, but have not had to do that on the Yota.
Did you reste after installing CPS? If not, this may resolve the problem.
Did you reste after installing CPS? If not, this may resolve the problem.
02-01-2012, 07:39 PM
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On my toyota, I just leave the cable off for a couple of minutes.
On my Jaguar, I have to cycle the key with the cable disconnected. This has never been necessary on the Yota to get it reset. ut I have heard other people say they have had to cycle the key.
On my Jaguar, I have to cycle the key with the cable disconnected. This has never been necessary on the Yota to get it reset. ut I have heard other people say they have had to cycle the key.
02-01-2012, 08:02 PM
#73
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ohhh alright I got you. I will give it try, so just unplug negative, let sit for a couple mins, plug back in, start truck (repeat a couple times)? and by unplug negative you mean pull the negative off the battery?
02-02-2012, 12:57 AM
#76
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Don't repeat starting it. Just start it and drive the truck as you normally would to get everything up to temperature so the computer can relearn everything. It will take a couple of cycles of warming up and driving after a cold start for the computer to fully recalibrate.
02-02-2012, 03:32 PM
#77
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I haven't reset the computer yet. the truck is slowly starting to get used to the new fuel pump and everything new that was NEW put into it. so I don't plan on reseting the computer yet it idling nicely now I reved it up to almost red line a couple times the engine sounds clean and is running sharp I think it just need to get driven alittle bit and warmed up.
02-03-2012, 07:35 AM
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You should really unhook the battery to reset the computer. It should have been unhooked while doing the work anyways for safety reasons. The worse thing that will happen is your stereo needs reprogrammed. Unhook negative cable wait a few minutes, then re connect it and done. There's no reason not to do it. Probably won't change anything but its good practice when doing ignition work.
02-22-2012, 04:45 AM
#79
Did you spray down the throttle plate with cleaner when you had the air box disconnected? One of the pictures look like you did and the carbon went into the IAC hole in front of the butterfly valve. The IAC may not be able to open/close allowing enough air to start up the engine. Which might explain why someone else had to goose the gas pedal to get the air in.
It looks like you didn't change the wires so the timing is correct. Did you clean the MAF? If you haven't already, disconnect the battery for a few hours to reset the computer.
This article was very informative.
how-a-idle-air-control-valve-works
It looks like you didn't change the wires so the timing is correct. Did you clean the MAF? If you haven't already, disconnect the battery for a few hours to reset the computer.
This article was very informative.
how-a-idle-air-control-valve-works
Last edited by DRCOFFEE; 02-22-2012 at 01:40 PM.
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