MizzMo

My son has wanted a toyota for some time, and found a 90 4 runner. Hubby test drove it, and all seemed fine for the 3 or so miles he drove it. After they bought it for too much money, it started to smoke blue smoke while shifting up. Occasionally a puff of white would come out, and a puff of black smoke, but when maintaining a driving speed of whatever, like 35 or 55, it would not smoke. The motor doesn't appear to be the original, and currently has a 3.0 efi, car fax says theres a descrepency on the milage. Car lot gave back a grand. But, any auto place says motor is shot, wham, 5,000 grand. A friend says, pcv valve, or smog control. Thoughts? And where is the pcv valve, and can you disconnect smog belt?

bike4miles

Puffs of smoke on acceleration is a classic sign of a shot motor. I don't think the pcv valve has anything to do with it but you can get one anyway since they are only like $2.50. Sorry for the bad news. I kind of got taken on my 4runner by a smooth talker at a car lot 2 years ago. I bought it for $5,000 and now, another $5,000 later, it is finally a nice rig.

MizzMo

Ok, sounds about right price wise on what we paid, and what we're gonna pay. Freaking sux they burned my kid on his first car, but I think most of us have been there.

MizzMo

ok, then, what would be the symptoms if the pcv valve was shot?
Or, if the smog pump was shot or plugged?

Reldnew

Yeah it sounds like the motor might be a little tired--but what are you going to do with this truck? Towing, long commutes through dangerous neighborhoods, way out off roading miles from civilization? Why not change all the fluids and filters-including PVC valve-tune it up and see how it runs for awhile. Is this runner just for around town?-A little smoke never hurt anybody! That way you can also take your time to compare different engine shops and possible solutions. Don't make the same mistake twice and jump into a rebuild with shop that you have no experience with. They may screw up, over-charge, or take forever. A few questions:

What motor?
What year?
Miles?
Auto?
4 or 2 Wheel?

ctcost

I'm in the process of rebuilding my 91. Remanufactured engine should be around $3500 (that's what mine was, the good news is you'll save $1000 on the estimate of $5000 that you had).

Be prepared for more expenditures though. I remanny'd the automatic tranny ($3400), Shocks (Rancho 5000s as I didn't lift it), the universal joints should be checked immediately, all the fluids should be summarily changed (oil, i guess not since it sounds like you'll be rebuilding at least part of the motor. But transmission and gear oil and a radiator flush definitely a Lube job is also a necessity). Brakes, make sure all the brakes, calipers, rotors, shoes and drums are in good shape (winter is here).

Also, all filters should be changed (transmission, fuel, guess the oil filter can and air filters can wait for the new motor).

Thing is, for me at least, once I hear the motor is shot (or sounds like at least is burning oil somewhere) everything else is suspect and should be looked at.

One thing you should definitely do is search the board for head gasket recall, find the number to your local Toyota dealer, call and give them the VIN number of the vehicle to see if it's eligible...I know they are getting close to closing that model off if they haven't already. They will tear it down for free if it's still eligible and, if necessary, totally rebuild it. They did $5000 worth of work with a rental car added in on my brand new motor.

One other recall that should be done at the same time (if it's still eligible), the air conditioning expansion valve.

good luck Mizz...Hope all works out for you.

Sad part about mine is just the other day a girl pulled a U-turn in fron of me and now it has to go back in for $4k worth of surgery. Her company's expense of course. :pat:

Flamedx4

If you do end up rebuilding - shop around. A reman engine shouldn't run more than about 2000, plus the labor if you have it installed, and tranny rebuild should run less than 2000 all done.

superjoe83

the smoke is probably just worn valve guides, if it is not knocking or making any strange noises, i wouldn't replace the motor right now, wait awhile and see if anything changes, a little oil burning isn't that big of a deal

MizzMo

Its a 90, 3.0 motor, has same numbers as on hood, manual trans, 4 wheel drive, last two mileage readings via car fax, is latest number is 87,000, and back in 99, car fax says 184,000. It smokes way more than I'm comfortable with. Someone says the valve guides are probably worn, and someone says it could be a head gasket.My experience with the gaskets is water in the oil, which there isn't any, but who knows, this isn't a chevy either.
The motor doesn't seem to make any wierd noises, so am hoping its not major, but won't count my chickens yet. I will look into this head gasket thing too. Thanx!

freeflyer

Let's see!! Blue smoke=oil burning. White smoke=steam(water getting in the cylinders)or brake fluid. Black smoke=rich fuel/air mixture.

It sounds as if you might have multiple problems. Find a good shop for diagnosis.

Bruce

williemon

I heard a long time ago that when you let off the gas to shift, if a motors gonna smoke, it will do it then. That is due to the extra pressure in the crankcase pushing oil past the rings. Maybe do a compression check to see where the cylinders are. Also you might need to use a thicker oil, say a 10w-xx or a 15w-xx so it might not be so apt to blow by. As others have said, a little smoke wont hurt so the motor may not be all toast yet. Also keep in mind that if hes a younger driver, then there could be some fender benders in his future. I know there was in mine. You might not want to have a brand new engine in it.