bamayote

i'm thinking about buying a '86 pickup reg cab long bed 4x4 4cly.
a friend of mine has it right now and it's got 200k miles. he say's it'll probably need a front seal. i trust the guy, so for $900 i dont think i'm getting screwed.
here's the question..........s
what would you have done mechanically when you got it home?
i know -- seal and probably plugs and such.
just bouncing this off of ya'll.
thanx
brad

tenfourtyeight

Bump.

Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, brakes, brake fluid, coolant; are things I have dine since I got mine a few weeks ago.

Plays_with_Toys

Actually I would hold off on the plugs and wires and such. I would drive it around a while and then see how the engine acts (maybe change plugs, atleast check them) but if you do it right away, and there is a problem, you won't know if it was inherit when you bought it, or when you replaced the stuff.

Not sure which seal you are talking about, I know I have a slow leak on my front right and was quoted at 900 to fix it. Thats the seal at the differential to the CV. If yours is at the CV side, I am sure it is easier and cheaper.

I wouldn't necessarily jump in and spend a bunch of money changing things out. I would inspect everything (or have a garage do it for you, you can tell them you want to buy it). They can highlight stuff that should be changed, but again you can look yourself too. If pads are thin, get them replaced and turn the rotors. If plugs are fouled, replace them with some NGK's. At 200K miles, the thing I would look at replacing is the fuel filter.

What type of engine does it have? The efi or carb?

Mike Murrell

In my opinion, good advice in all of the posts above.

Best to just drive it awhile to see how things are. Of course you'll want to make sure that oil/coolant/tire pressure/etc. are at the correct level - things you can easily check.

After you've driven it a 1000 miles or so and no major problems have developed, change all fluids 'n filters. Visuall observation will indicate if belts and hoses are tired.

If you have a carburetted engine, there are alot of short vacuum hoses with sharp bends that may have a small crack here or there. These can account for stumbling/rough idle.

Don't forget the transmission oil(assuming it's a std). There's a breather pipe on top of the transmission. If the vehicle has been driven in creeks, etc., the gear oil will not look right. If the tranny oil has a light greenish color to it, the truck has been through alot of water. The '83 22R held 3 qts. in the tranny; 2 in the differential. Change that one too. If tranny is automatic, change that fluid as well. 80W/90 GL-5 gear oil is fine for the std. tranny and differential.

Wouldn't hurt to pull the front wheels, pad, etc. and clean/repack front wheel bearings. If the pads/shoes are worn, use dealer parts. Nobody makes brakes pad/rear linings that wear as well as the dealer items. This applies to alot of makes; not just Toyota.

The 22R(and likely 22RE-it's fuel injected) had an engine drain plug on the drivers side of the block towards the rear. 19mm 1/2" dr. socket gets it out. Be sure to drain the block as well as the radiator and flush with a garden hose both ways. On these engines, you can develop an air-lock when changing coolant. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat, then fill to near the top of the thermostat housing will a 50/50 mix of coolant. Any brand of coolant is ok in an '86. Use distilled water - half distilled - half coolant. I always change the thermostat when changing coolant. Some say this is unnecessary, then again, I've never seen the temp. needle go into the red. It's easier to do this as part of preventative maint. vs. on the side of the road. That $5 t-stat can destroy a head gasket or worse yet, the whole engine.

I cried the day I had to let go of my '83. This era was a bright spot in Toyota's history.

Good luck with your '86.

bamayote

GREAT advice ya'll.
it's a 22re engine. came from michigan and said to have some rust in the bed, but easily fixed.
as for the leak................ i'm betting it's oil from the timing chain cover. said he changed the timing chain about 70k ago and had a small leak after changing, but has gotten a little worse.
new pads are on the truck right now, they only have 1k miles on them, but i'll check everything out anyway.
this is a piddle project truck for me and for $900 i wouldn't be upset if i had to pull the engine out and rebuild it.................everything is a learning experience.
i've built fords and chevy's.......lovethat 350 small block, but this will be my first "major work" toyota.
i think i just cant wait to get it home more than anything and i'm ready to start working on it. i go look at it and make sure everything "ok" next week. work schedules dont work out.
plus, this thing's been driven everyday up until last week when he got a new truck so i know it'll get me around town and that's exactly what i want.
thanx again ya'll
i'm sure i'll be bugging the crap out of everyone with questions.........
cya
brad

85runner

I agree with everyone else...except I would replace the seal so just so you don't spray any more oil in the engine compartment.