Marley2984

So I'm going through the truck replacing parts that could affect my lifespan and while underneath I noticed the rear heater coolant lines were almost rusted away.... not to the point where coolant is dripping out but close. So I am going to replace the radiator/cap, upper and lower hoses, thermostat, fan clutch, rear heater sub assembly lines, add external trans cooler. Other than the trans cooler I gotta search online for OEM... since the originals lasted 200k. Is there anything else I'm missing when ??

J2F42C

Looks good. Don't forget the OEM or Zerex coolant. Also check the condition of the drive belts since you will be changing out the fan clutch.

Marley2984

Thanks J2. I'm trying to roll through these original parts and replace.

where you at in the obx? Just came back from buxton this week going back next.

bicklebok

FYI, I recently bought an Aisin water pump for my 3.4 on ebay for 65 bucks, shipping included. Until recently I didnt realize I could get good OEM parts on ebay. Shop there too, if you dont already.

JerrfyLube

If you haven't done a timing belt and water pump recently, that would probably be a good time to do it.

J2F42C

Marley,
I am in Elizabeth City, NC and work in Portsmouth VA. I guess I can claim that I am in the OBX only in name, even though I did live in Wanchese, right behind Roanoke Sound for a year.

I had a friend from the University of Richmond who worked at the Canon Ridge Golf Club outside of Fredericksburg on the river during summers. Nice course to play.

Like others have said, a T-belt and H20 pump change if it has not been done lately.

If the radiator is original, and you have an automatic, consider bypassing it or replace it with a Koyo 1998A

Marley2984

I replaced the timing belt and water pump etc at 100k and was planning on including these as well. I am attaching some pics that started this thread after discovering the rust on these lines. There is corrosion and what looks like rust on a coolant line T connector of some sort in the first picture and then rust on the lines in the other pictures. Thats when I was trying to price that rear sub assembly and replace that with radiator etc etc. I have no experience whatsoever with anything coolant related so I'm hoping to just gather my parts and figure out who to install. I'm afraid these rusty lines are going to break if I delay.

Marley2984

OK here is the list as it stands now and I'll have to update with the factory part numbers when I locate the rest.

Timing belt (dealer)
water pump (dealer)
idler pulleys (dealer)
cam crank seals (dealer)
thermostat (dealer)
fan clutch (dealer)
radiator (KOYO 1998A go-part.com)
upper/lower hoses (dealer)
rear heater line (dealer 87248-35061)
trans cooler (B&M 70264 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70264/)
OEM or Zerex coolanthttp

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

www.ncttora.com/FSM

:wabbit2:

Marley2984

So is a fan clutch a fan clutch? I know the bennies of sticking with Toyota parts but working on picking up replacement items and the fan clutch through the dealer was about $170 but I found a beck/arnley, four season, and hayden on RockAuto for $85, $70, and $65 respectively. Just trying to figure if the dealer clutch is worth more than double.

TheDurk

The OEM clutch is AISIN. You can usually find the AISIN branded fan clutch (identical to factory) for less than $100 at partsgeek, rockauto, Amazon, etc. Personally, I chose to spend a little extra and get the AISIN from partsgeek, rather than the aftermarket Beck-Arnley, 4Season, etc.

Potomacduck

Got the fanclutch AISIN from partsgeek 1 year ago. Perfect fit, high quality......solved all my overheating problems.

.

tombat

In the Land Cruiser world, we just change the oil in the fan clutch and call it good. It's actually a serviceable item. I assume the 3.4 fan clutches are the same - of course I could be wrong. I was planning on changing the oil in mine as part of my timing belt replacement but that project got a little off track.

I believe the stock oil is 3000cst. I put 8000cst in my Land Cruiser fan clutch and a lot of guys in hotter climates run 15000cst. The oil is the same stuff that's used in differentials for RC cars, available anywhere you can get those parts - Like Hobby Town.

If you head over to IH8MUD and check out the 80's section, you'll find a ton of info. I could dig up some links if you want.

Marley2984

thanks for the partsgeek info... looking at it now. I didnt even know that it would even be a serviceable item? I looked in the FSM last night and didnt see that listed but just figured if it were going to go it would make noise or overheating would occur while stopped. I havent been overheating but was stuck in 100+ degree traffic jam this past weekend and the temp gauge starting rising even after the ac was cut off. I just wanted to include a replacement clutch with the coolant flush and the water pump/thermostat change etc.

J2F42C

I think the oil is changeable, and there was even a thread on here a couple of years back concerning this, but when I asked a couple of mechanics before replacing my clutch, they looked at me with utter puzzlement. Good to know now, but I just put a new Aisin one on not 5,000 miles ago.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

I have a modest 140k on my 2001 Taco but I am thinking about getting a new Radiator from these guys ( I have ordered 2 of them in the past with great pricing and fast delivery of course)
free shipping
go-parts.com shows my radiator for 140 plus shipping
radiatorbarn shows it for 122.79 delivered
https://www.radiatorbarn.com/search....oduct=radiator