85toyman

iTrader: (2)

Looking good Rusky. Cant wait to finally see that tail gate on there. Lifting the rear without the front looks very comical. I remember when I did mine and was like this aint right. Looks like the 4runner has a cobb up its butt.

I vote for 4runnin. Keep up the good work and thanks for the updates.

If you want to change to the grey interior or from the blue. I have a pile of it in grey from the pillers to glove box to kick panels, ect. I can make you a good deal on it as I need to move it out. If you do pm me.

Runner303

4runnin looks the best. lookin good keep up the good work!

ruskymx

I was able to get some more work done today and last sunday...not much progress, but progress nonetheless.

Manual hubs installed:




Pro Comp ES3000 installed PT # 314014





Picture of it back on the ground in the garage. It's pouring rain here in PA today & I think I left my jumper cables in my 95 Corolla that I sold a few months ago, so I have nothing to jump start it with either.Plus I have to move stuff out into the rain just to be able to get it out. If the weather is decent Wednesday, I'll get it out and get better pictures.





There's just about 1 1/8 inch of torsion bar adjust bolt above the nut. Not sure what stock height was cuz I tossed my broken bolts a while ago.

Debating about trying to tackle the LC coils in my garage or having the guy that did my engine work take it to his place and do it there. It would cost me a few bucks, but he has a lift & air tools, etc.

Ruskymx

2DoorRunner

Cruiser coils are a breeze. The secret is mechanical advantage!
Shocks were the hardest part.
Pull all brackets and shocks, And the passenger side UPPER link (the one that hits the gas tank).
You will need to be creative to get the axle to drop far enough to slide the old coils out. Then drop the axle some more, and the lc coils drop right in. No spring compressor needed.
Now comes the mechanical advantage part. Lower it all back down, then use a C-clamp to get the upper link to reconnect. Line up the hole and hammer the bolt back through. And the panhard isnt as hard as everyone says. Ratchet strap from the frame to the axle.
If you cant get it high enough in your garage, tell your buddy to do it like this on his lift, it works great

ruskymx

Got the battery charged up and pulled it out of the garage. Front is just about done. New BJ's, tie rods, ProComp 3000 series (314014), Aisin hubs. I need to do Idler arm, pitman arm & steering stabilizer and that should complete the front suspension. My rear shocks came in yesterday, also ProComp 3000 series (326513), and I've had the panhard drop bracket for a while now & LC coils. I need to buy ext brake lines for front and rear as well.

Front lift done, some tweaking of torsions may be needed but not doing anything until rear is done too.



My 3 4Runners!



2000 SR5 DD
1993 Rig in Progress
1995 parts donor-parting out and if the diffs dont sell by the time I'm ready for them, I got my 4.88's then too.

Ruskymx

ruskymx

Got my "new" tailgate on today. I probably have one of the only rust free tailgates on a 2nd gen 4Runner in PA...lol



Ruskymx

toyospearo

Wow! Nice work man!
Nice rig.

ruskymx

I got this idea few days ago to make custom door panels. Ever since I broke one on the vehicle I'm parting out, I've been thinking about doing this for my 93 build so I started messing around today.

Here's a pic of a work in progress. I used 1/8" masonite from Lowes for $7.53 for a 4'x8' sheet which would be more than enough to make all 4 panels. As I was working on this, I'll be able to reuse my old ones.



Here's the same one blinged up a little with some 20ga aluminum. I pulled the vinyl off the top part and painted it black and used some rattle can bedliner on it. I'm going to paint the armrest, door handle, & storage pocket black as well. I just ran out of time today.

Here's a pic of the bling...lol



I still have to bend the ends around to finish the edges and the top piece is not attached. I'm debating about messing around trying to get the clips to line up and work right or just screw the panel on. I have some of the clips correct, but others are not. I think it will easier to just screw it on with some stainless sheet metal screws.

I'm going to finish it up before I make a final decision on doing the rest. I'm debating about the solid sheet of aluminum or one with holes/shapes.

Ruskymx

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

4Runner is looking good man, and i hate to break it to ya but i also have a second gen Runner with a rust-free tailgate although it did come from NC...

ruskymx

Mine came from Oregon. I bought it from the classifieds here from 85toyman. They are extremely rare here in PA. It must be nice to not have your vehicles rot away like down south and out west. I just need to figure something out for my 1/4's and I'll be good (I think). I wish toyotafiberglass.com made 1/4's for mine. Looks like they just make them for the first gens.

Ruskymx

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

Yeah it really must be nice never having to worry about rust... sigh i guess we'll never know.

I can't remember the company but i am 99% sure there is a company that makes fiberglass fenders for the 2nd gens. I wish i could remember who.

P.S. I Mapquested it, and you're 45 min away from me.

ruskymx

Toyotafiberglass.com makes fiberglass fenders, but i already bought new fenders from eBay last year. I need to have as little bondo as possible on mine for when I get it LineX'd according to the body that I'm going to use for the LineX. I'm probably stealing the doors from my partout because they are in better shape than the ones on my 93.

Are you heading to Rausch Creek for the 4Runner Jamboree in June? I'm going to try and have the 93 ready (well, as ready as I can get it) for then, but if I don't, I'll take my 2000 4Runner DD.

Just looked at google maps too....yeah you are not far from me at all....if you ever go to Cabelas, stop by the Toyota dealer across the highway in the industrial park. I've worked for that dealership for 9 years now (We've been in that location for 5 years now).

Ruskymx

B-yodaful

Hey man Is there anything I should know about replacing 3gen runners? my buddy just bought a tailgate for his. I have never done one before. sorry not trying to hijack your thread.

ruskymx

Tailgate was easy. Three bolts on both sides and a screw on each "arm" from body to gate and the wiring harness. That's it. Hardest part was getting access to the wiring harness. I had to pop off my rear interior panel on the driver's side.

Ruskymx

B-yodaful

well boo yaa thanks

ruskymx

I am just about finished the passenger side front door panel. I have it mounted up and all the parts painted. I need to put some screws in the bottom or liquid nails for the aluminum to stick to the main panel.

On to the PICS!









Glove box painted with rattle can bed liner as well.



I think it came out pretty good. I'm thinking about getting some 4Runner emblems and painting them black and slap the on the bottom right area of the door panel.

Ruskymx

bobby_duce

the doors look great! how hard was it to make them?

ruskymx

Actually pretty easy. I originally was going to make a new back panel from 1/8 masonite as pictured in one of my earlier posts, but my holes for the clips that snap in to hold the panel to the door were off a little and it didn't fit very well. I decided to try and use the original panel that I broke in half. The aluminum sheet, & armrest with switches held the panel together and once everything was on it, it was fairly sturdy plus it lined up and snapped on like it should have because it was the original panel behind the aluminum.

The worst part of it was taking everything apart, cleaning and painting it. I was originally going to use Krylon fusion, but Lowes didn't have it but they had their Valspar brand plastic paint so I used that as a base coat and then used rattle can bedliner also purchased from Lowes as the top coat. The bed liner is flat black where the plastic paint was glossy.

I cut the aluminum with sheers a half inch or so longer on each end and just folded and bent it around the edge of the panel. I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel for the cuts in the middle of the panel. It doesn't have a sharp edge now except on the top (which is covered by the top piece with) and the bottom which didn't bother me because how often do you run your hands along the bottom of the door panel. Plus, the bottom is the edge of the panel with the "factory" cut so it's not sharp to begin with.

The only thing is to make sure you have the aluminum marked right before you cut. It's $26 for a 2'x3' sheet!

I bought some 3/4" self-tapping stainless steel screws that I'm probably going to use along the bottom edge and the right side of the panel to make sure it doesn't rattle on me. The holes that are in the very top piece are showing now. I'm thinking about putting the same (or shorter SS screws in there) or possible getting 4Runner emblems and putting it on the top piece.

I'm going to finish the rest of the panels before I decide on that though.

Ruskymx

ruskymx

Torn between these two wheels...I like the looks of the street locks, but the price of soft 8's. Opinions?

Street Locks


Soft 8's


Soft 8's are $47.95 from Summit & Street Locks are $95.95 also from Summit.....hmmm..decisions, decisions

Ruskymx

B-yodaful

I'v ALways loved the Soft 8's and they are soo freakin cheep for a strong wheel. just my 2cents