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That's great Ray, happy for you. Nothing wrong with moving on to other chapters in life, and that's also great that your daughter agreed to take on a 35 year old truck, good for her.
it's all good; none of us remember everything about stuff we've worked on. see my above post about the distributor gear and camshaft. hint: not a problem on the 22re! i knew that, but i'd forgotten it. like you, i'm just a wrench that isn't afraid to dig into stuff. some things 22re i can do in my sleep (fuel injection system); others i have to review/read/research. i have the FSM to help, but even better, yotatech is here to get the right stuff done!
i still think ray has the patience and skills to do this in his driveway/condo spot and get it done before the end of the month, but it is good to have a toyota guy available as a resource.
you were right he did it! It does help having a Toyota tech on hand. I need friends like that. Ha ha.
I hear you on them repeat jobs like your fuel pump. I'm quick on doing the stereo in the 4runner now. just did it for the third time.
Yeah, the driver side guide (aka damper) that broke was metal with plastic cladding. The OSK kit came with thicker plastic guides, so we found out last minute that the plain bolts for the former would not fit the plastic one that use shoulder bolts. No luck finding the correct shoulder bolts for the plastic guides but found metal one guides from O'Reilly's on Jefferson in Murrieta that came with mounting hardware (plain bolts). I also think that in 2013 The Truck Shop of Miramar (San Diego) either did not replace the old chain or replaced it with inferior one that broke after only 9 years (100,000). I will write more detailed report later.
I actually only saw the passenger side engine mount (just behind the negative block ground wire) wet with coolant and am hoping it came from when we took off the coolant lines from the timing cover. I asked my daughter to hose down all the coolant on the engine mount as well as areas above and below it and monitor for further leak.
Yeah, I checked those coolant pipes on rear face of the timing cover.
I really needed the tech support and moral support because I only had a few days to get the truck ready to bequeath to daughter who is still learning to drive stick shift.
I have moved to the land of non-P.C. trucks - LOL!
Monica's Choices
Non-P.C.
Non-P.C.
Will shop for my DIESEL Yota when dust settles.
nice! You need that last one right there. It'll make you forget about the 4runner.
Well, after over a year, I get to drive #rad4runner again! After a few months driving a bloated Gen2 Pajero (Montero's equivalent in Asia which I find too feature laden - power this, power that, shock absorber for the seat mount, etc) it feels so refreshing to drive a simple, lean, vehicle. I feel light-footed, like running barefoot which I like to do. Someone left this note Sorry, she's not for sale. Missed rad4runner More that a year after we replaced timing chain and pertinent parts, not a single drop of oil from main oil seal, when I used to struggle with it before and even had alternator go bad because of the oil leak More that a year after we replaced timing chain and pertinent parts, not a single drop of oil from main oil seal, when I used to struggle with it before and even had alternator go bad because of the oil leak Some Yota Porn. Clean right-hand drive LC70 (looks like a 1990's model)
Be able to turn stock deck lamp on/off without turning tail lights on,
Keep stock controls
Find this green wire (takes 12VDC from tail light circuit). Verify that it is the correct one. There should be 12VDC when tail light is on, none when tail light is off.
Cut it as in picture.
The side remaining in the harness should be the hot side when parking light is on. Do not use this. Insulate and tuck away.
Use side connected to connector. This should be the one without power EVEN IF taillight is on. This is the one that goes to the deck lamp. You will connect this to a tap on dome circuit.
Cleanest way would be to find exactly where it taps into tail light, but I haven't found a snorkel that would work in that spaghetti soup - LOL!
Find Black Wire with White-Stripe on fused side of dome circuit:
Verifythat it is the "fused" side. There should be 12VDC when dome fuse is in and none when dome fuse is removed.
I first saw this post probably 10 years ago and was inspired to do this. I finally got around to doing it and while it does work, I find that when I open my doors and the dome light comes on, the deck lamp turns off. Is this normal? I didn't tap into the back of the fuse, rather I tapped into the dome light door open switch. I figured that was always hot and the dome light came on when the switch connected the ground?
Basically I just depinned the switch side and ran a wire down and tapped into the red door open switch wire. Just curious if this is expected behaviour or not. It's still a lot better than needing to turn the running lights on, but I was thinking it would always work, regardless of the door being open or shut.
Ahhh the 4runner missed you too! It is an easy vehicle to just jump back into after not driving for a while. I myself haven't been driving ours as much lately. I've been busy with another project vehicle lately, 1967 Jeepster Commando and spending a lot of time helping my son with his project vehicle, 1979 Corolla. Now that the weather is starting to warm up around here it's time to take the top off the 4runner so we'll be spending some time with it again!
... when I open my doors and the dome light comes on, the deck lamp turns off. Is this normal? I didn't tap into the back of the fuse, rather I tapped into the dome light door open switch. I figured that was always hot and the dome light came on when the switch connected the ground?
It is because pin 1 of the door-ajar switch where you tapped off is on the negative side of the dome light. Yes, it has 12V there because there is constant 12V at the positive side of the dome bulb. When the door is closed (the door-ajar switch is open) you will read 12V there. However, when the door is ajar the door-ajar switch closes, connecting that point to ground and pulls voltage down to zero.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 03-17-2024 at 10:23 AM.
It is because pin 1 of the door-ajar switch where you tapped off is on the negative side of the dome light. Yes, it has 12V there because there is constant 12V at the positive side of the dome bulb. When the door is closed (the door-ajar switch is open) you will read 12V there. However, when the door is ajar the door-ajar switch closes, connecting that point to ground and pulls voltage down to zero.
I guess I should have known that you chose the hot side of the dome fuse for a reason! I really don't want to take that fust panel off, but I probably should just get it over with! Or maybe an add-a-fuse could work as well but I've been trying to stop using them. Want everything to appear as factory as possible.
Hi folks!
Need recommendation for body shop in San Diego or Orange County to bring the curvature back to stock.
I hit a post softly while backing up at idle with door open. Now window glass binds on upper part of track. I don't want trial and error because that could weaken frame.
Here's how it looks now with regulator disconnected.
Hi folks! Looking for good body shop in *San Diego* to fix or restore curvature of #rad4runner's window frame. I hit the driver's door while open against a post and although it was a soft crash (at idle) it makes it difficult to roll the window up and down. Glass binds on upper part of track but smooth on lower part. I also think the binding caused the regulator gears to wear out. I have OEM replacement regulator, but need the window frame fixed to allow smooth operation before installing it.
Video shows glass operation / fit with regulator disconnected so it accurately shows how glass slides in track:
Kenny's Collision Center in San Diego fixed my window frame, and I installed the Aisin manual regulator that I bought from McGeorge Toyota (Thanks to fellow member who recommended McGeorge to me!)
It is significantly smoother now, although not as smooth as the passenger side. However, I'd rather not mess with it further and risk an accident (break the glass) or fatigue the metal.
You should still check McGeorge Toyota for parts for the time being, but I saw they were recently sold to a Northern Virginia dealer. They were the original Toyota dealer in VA in the 1960's. They are local to me. I bought my 2021 Tacoma from them and during the crazy, inflated COVID price days, and they charged me exactly the MSRP. Easily $4k under my other closest dealer.
You're right, Nervo, it is now Ourisman Toyota. Same good OEM parts, same great service and quick shipping. https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotaofrichmond.com/
[QUOTE=Nervo19;52494212]You should still check McGeorge Toyota for parts for the time being, but I saw they were recently sold to a Northern Virginia dealer. . Easily $4k under my other closest dealer.[/QUOTE]
11-11-2022, 04:27 AM
They were the original Toyota dealer in VA in the 1960's. They are local to me. I bought my 2021 Tacoma from them and during the crazy, inflated COVID price days, and they charged me exactly the MSRP. Easily $4k under my other closest dealer.
