ebow951

Hey all,

It's been a while in the making, but I'm finally getting serious with my delusions of grandeur; I'm looking at rebuilding my '93 pickup from the tires up. I am an amateur armed with my Chilton and Toyota Service Manual, good help, and a lot of determination. Twist: I've got two trucks to work with, my '93 22re daily driver, and my rusted out '87 22r on jacks. For being so similar, as many of you know, many of the components couldn't be any different.

'93 22RE Reg Cab Dlx
G58 Tranny
VF1A Transfer
Top Shifting
Vacuum 4x4

'87 22R Reg Cab Dlx
G52 Tranny
RF1A Transfer
Forward Shifting
Manual Hubs 4x4

I've also picked myself up a used transmission of unknown origin, a W56, though I'm not sure of it's working condition or style. I haven't looked into it but at first glance it appears to be a 'B' style.

The idea is to strip the '87 clean for parts and deconstruction experience. This winter, the goal will be to complete a refurbishing of the block and install a new head and components for my 22RE, completing a swap in the spring into my '93. Secondary thoughts: Refurbishing the frame / axles / and rebuilding from the tires up.

My preliminary thoughts for the engine part of the rebuild does include power upgrades, though keeping reasonable mileage would be nice. I do a bit of Forest-Service-Road driving and off-roading, but mostly I do a lot of highway and daily driving. What I most desire is a power boost to "get me over that mountain in 4th gear". These are my thoughts for purchases, mostly based on packages available from LC Engineering, but not limited to or set in stone. One consideration for me is my location; shipping and duty to Canada can be an expensive pain. I'm fully open to local or alternative distributers and options to products.

- Header, Emissions Legal Street (Keeping the Cat)
- Header Studs
- Intake Performance:
--- Big Bore Throttle Body (To compliment my larger throated '82 Supra MAF and Spectra Air Intake)
--- Ported Intake Assembly (Port my current intake? Downtime of daily driver?)
--- Flow-Matched Fuel Injectors
--- Teflon Gasket Set
--- Intake Studs
- Pro Cylinder Head (Mild port work)
- 45.5 Intake Valves
- 37.5 Exterior Valves
- Street Springs
- Street Retainers
- Hardened Keepers
- OEM Viton Seals
- Bronze Guides
- Pro EFI Cam Shaft
- Master Rebuild Kit
--- Pistons (Forged?) (Std, 0.25, 0.50, 0.75?)
--- Pistion Rings (Gapless?)
--- Wrist Pins & Locks
--- Main, Rod, & Thrust Bearings (Std, 0.25, 0.50, 0.75?)
--- Gaskets
--- Dual Row Timing Chain
--- Water Pump
--- Oil Pump
--- Freeze Plug

I figure I can rebuild the W56 transmission which is supposed to be stronger and tack on the rebuilt '87 RF1A gear driven t-case with the Marlin Forward/Top shifter change over kit (and maybe 4.7 gears?).

I already have a new OEM master and slave clutch, as well as OEM clutch assembly, so I wasn't going to upgrade the clutch at this time, but I was considering a more powerful clutch to match a boosted tranny and engine.

Further down the road I have a few more ideas to work out:

- 3" box 'deepening' involving adding 3" of metal to the inside of the bed. From the side it would look like a body lift but would require 3" added to the bulk head and tailgate as well.
- Spray lined and repainted box
- 3" body lift to cab only to match box
- Engine mount lifts to match? 2"?
- Budbuilt Crossmember with 2" mount lift"

- 33" All Terrains and Rims
- 4.88 Gears front and back
- TrueTrac Limited Slip in the rear
- Rear Disc Brake conversion while I've got the axle out?
- Fender Flares as needed for tires

- Electric Fan Controller (FK-50p) (I've picked up a suitable electric fan already)
- Dual Battery with Isolator
- High Output Alternator
- 4.70 T-Case Gear Reduction?

This among other cosmetics like a roll pan, back up lights, box lights, CB, built in stereo box, roof basket, bed rails, nerf bars, built in air compressor, 3M film protectant, hitch etc. etc. I've already installed a Tonneau cover, Push Bar, Winch, and aux lighting up front.

Mostly what has been overlooked is suspension work. I haven't thought about a suspension lift mostly because I don't want the truck to gain much more height than the 3" body lift and 33" tires will already get me, and the body lift is required only because of the box deepening, which I strongly desire so my camping and work gear can fit under my tonneau cover. I wouldn't mind upgrading the suspension while I"m at it, but I'm not looking for great gains, and haven't researched or know a thing about it.

If anyone has any suggestions for me, or comments on things you wish you could add if you were starting from scratch, things you wish you had done, etc., all would be appreciated. Photos and progress to be updated often under this thread. Hope this can be enjoyable and maybe even informative for you guys.

Thanks for checking it out!

ebow951

Started pulling apart the donor 22R block from my '87. I got anxious to get to work, so mostly stripped it before I even got it pulled onto a stand.




not going to need these two guys again. into the back of the box they go, with all the other discarded parts ...



Doesn't look like the engine was in that great of shape. I remember running it for a month with water constantly leaking into the oil, and that was when I bought it. After that I drove it coast to coast and as a daily driver for 2 years before letting it sit and rust in a field for the last 4.5 years. The last time I tried to drive it, the slave went and a brake line on the back blew, but she still started with a jump!






I can't wait to get that baby pulled and get going, though I'm not without trepidation. Picked up an engine stand to work on, so should have it out by the end of the week.

ebow951

Hopefully my assumption that the bellhousing / engine bolt was 12mm x 1.25 was correct, but I haven't had any luck finding the bolts. The largest local 'fastener' place gave me no hope. Guess I'll end up cutting the new engine stand down and using the stock bolts, if possible.

I had been thinking I could use my truck winch to hoist the engine out of there. Posts on here mentioned the block and head might weigh around 350, fluids removed. I've been starting to worry about the stability of strapping snatch block pulleys to my residential garage joists.

I figured I would park my winch behind the truck with the engine to pull I could run the line under the truck, off a pulley on the front wall up to the ceiling above the truck, and then back down to engine. With the angle on the pulleys I figure this would put about 650lbs. worth of pull on each the wall and the ceiling, probably a lot more than a couple bolts into a 2x4 could hold. I also thought about cutting away the drywall and wrapping a strap around the beam, but this two leaves me with doubts to the strength of the wood. Not even sure I know exactly what style of beam is in the ceiling.

Don't think my wife would appreciate me pulling the second floor bedroom down through the garage, so I'll have to think about that a bit. Worst case scenario I pick up a used cherry picker from the classifieds, but it would be nice to use the winch and snatch blocks I already own.

john4wd

If you have an ACE hardware up there go there to get the bolts, that's where I got mine...
Do you have a Harbor Freight up there? They have a 2 ton chain hoist for 40 bucks, I used one and there great and a engine crank leveler, turn the hand crank and the engine tilts in either direction. Try there web sites, I'm sure they ship items. I used a pole barn over head beam, check out my build thread and you'll see.

Also if you have a big warehouse style home improvement stores, go get an adjustible steel beam support and stick that under the overhead beam you want to use, there very HD and can handle alot of weight...

ebow951

Thanks John! I've actually done a fair bit of studying on your build. Thanks for all the help there! The cheapest new hoist I've seen is $320 bucks, but I was able to pick up a great stand with the same rotation function you mentioned for $80. I guess until I cut the drywall off the ceiling I won't know what type of beams they are, or if a beam clamp will work. If only it was rafters and not another room above the garage ...

My brother also suggested a solid way to take some of the force off the pulleys, by running the winch line up the side of the truck to the first pulley on the ceiling, then over to a second pulley on the ceiling above the engine. At 90 degrees a pulley, the force would be reduced to about 500lbs. or so.

As for the bolts, I've been into the car stores, the box warehouse stores, the hardware stores, and the warehouse stores, and everyone seems to have the same largest bolt available, a 12mmx1.75 80mm. I was pretty sure I needed 12mmx1.25, which they all agree is pretty fine thread. Also the stand I bought would need about 4 1/2" - 5" bolts in length, so I might just have to trim that down. Perhaps I'll be ordering online soon ...

TinMan

Ebow, I have found that Toyota is about the same price on their bolts as anyone else. A little more on some, but they have what you need. But no matter how you get them the cost of bolts have went through the roof in the last few years.

john4wd

To bad you didn't live closer you could have the bolts I used :} there 12x1.25x4.5" long and used them on a Harbor Freight 4 wheel engine stand, Do you have a Fastenal store up there? Some one has to have some, your in Canada and everything is metric isn't it? I have to deal with most places having SAE here in the US and very little to no metric, Menards didn't have a 12x1.25 nuts to install tow hooks on back of my frame since I have no bumper, so I again went to ACE and they have the most supply of fasteners there is, one lane both sides of the isle is all fasteners of all types including push and pull springs also, you can't make a huge list and just go to Seattle to get everything? My searches is showing there are ACE hardware stores in Richmond, BC and in surrounding cities, closest Harbor Freight is in Everette WA. Good Luck bud :}

ebow951

Right on guys, thanks for the tips. Calling an ACE affiliate tomorrow, as well as Toyota. I'll at least get a price on the bolts, since I haven't cut the engine stand down yet.

You would think that being a metric country they'd be easy to come by, but domestic cars and sharing a construction industry and standards with the US, most things are still imperial. I went through school learning both, and use both for work, but mostly think in imperial.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Hey man!!!! Long time no see, eh?

ebow951

Hey Logan! Yeah, it's been too long. Life goes on, but you always gotta come back to your truck!

Found the bolts! A fastener company in town (the last one I hadn't contacted) was able to order some in for me. Should be shipped up from Indiana and arrive Monday, so they say. Not bad for cost, $21 including shipping. Toyota was useless and rude. Too bad, because I've been building a good relationship with the local dealer over late. They happily sold me service manuals a few months back.

Found a cherry picker for $250 new, but still seriously thinking about attaching the pulleys to the ceiling and using my winch... Gotta find someone with framing expertise.

TinMan

Sorry to hear about your Toyota dealer being rude. Mine has been great, I have had them poring over parts diagrams searching some very little stuff. But glad you found what you were looking for.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Ugh...I hate rude Toyota parts guys. SMH.

At least you have a winch...I had to use a come-a-long

ebow951

Logan, it looks like you pulleyed right off your joists. I'm thinking of going for it this weekend and setting up the winch to the ceiling. Did you have to reinforce the beam? Any suggestions on weight bearing?

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

That's my old garage and the center beam was double joisted. My come-a-long had a pulley on it and I secured it on the beam that was in the right spot for the position of the truck. I pulled it out when it was JUST the block. I made sure the cross joist was adequately attached to the garage structure. When I put the WHOLE motor back in, I did reinforce the joist.