aztoyman

Read the tech sections of some driveline web sites on how to measure for your drive shafts.

Measure ride height, max compressed and max extension of the shaft. Be careful where you measure from. The driveline shop told me to just measure bottom of flange to bottom of flange. This would have worked IF my driveline angle was straight. It has a lot of angle so this didn't work. The bottom measurement is different from the top. In my case enough to be a problem. Just be careful and CLEARLY explain or even better draw a diagram for your driveshaft shop.

I used my winch cable to go down under my front axle and up to a snatch block hanging from my shock hoop and back down to my lower shock mount to compress my front suspension. Kind of scary but it pulled it down to the bump stops for an accurate drive shaft measurement.

Ride height and droop are easy.

For the rear I hooked a chain come-along to my rear bumper. Pulled the chain down under my axle and up to my rear shock crossmember. Pulled the rear down to bump stops also. (63" Chevs)

I used the stock rear slip yoke without any problems. Doesn't move as much as front. You'll see when you measure.

I used the stock front slip yoke too BUT....it is at the very edge of it's travel. I really need a longer travel slip yoke. Getting by for now.

I used non CV front and a CV in the rear. Rotated axle by replacing spring perches. Rear flange should point up towards T-Case flange. Should be in Tech section of web sites also.

dub tek

I have this done for ride height + Droop
The Compression IS my issue!!!
No winch - block - shock hoops.. ext
Still tryn to get that final measurement........

I found what your talking about measuring the top + bottom of flange
And getting different lengths based on flange angle differences

Yes my rear 3rd flange points AT the tcase output
Front 3rd NOT so much.... HA




My plan is as follows

REAR:
Stock 88 IFS CV at transfer
Stock Rear Slip Joint 88 5spd
Rear Shaft I have is from a local 4runner and works OK..
(Im in same boat its a bit short.. 2" total slip is currently engaged)
Im going to have the local shop lengthen it 1.75"
With a new tube as mine is ohio crusty.........

FRONT:
TG Long Spline
Ujoint at Tcase end

I have the high angle front CV from the 85 solid axle
At some point in the WAY distant future Ill rotate the axle ends
Go to CV at TCase end and the long slip....

dub tek

AZ Toy man
Again I thank you for ALL the help!!!


Ill keep posting info in this thread
The motor swap side of this is nearing completion too!!..

aztoyman

If you don't have a way to compress your suspension, all you can really do is take some leaves out of your spring packs. That way you CAN easily compress it to the stops or until springs go flat if your bump stops aren't in yet.


It would suck to guess at where your full compression is and have your drive shaft punch out your T-case if you're wrong.

dub tek

The Full compression was my issue!!!!
However I found some assistance from a hydro excavator (320CL cat)
We added some DOWN action to the bumpers individually
Got my full compression measurements! lol

Also measured for bump stop install heights, checked to make sure everything else looked legit" while loaded
(Confirmed I DO need a pitman arm with less drop it hits the spring)

I no longer fear the droop in the ass from the weight of my king quad tho..
Its only using about 1/3 of the total compression travel
315# rear rate..

^^^ THIS is why I dont guess!!!
Saw a bunch of pics with blown cases cause lengths were too long
Id be pissed to say the least







I removed the fuel tank
Opened it up
Removed the electric pump
Made a stainless "Pickup-Tube" and tig welded it to the stock intank piping
Dropped it back down and to check its final install location/function
I added a measured 1 gallon
Used a vac pump to remove it using my pickup tube mod
It got 90% + of what I added and Im good with that!!

dub tek

Started building the wiring harness











^^ This last pic
Is a completed version I did in a past swap
Ran entire 2003, drive by wire, OBD2, Turbo Diesel, VW motor, W/AC!!

aztoyman

Pretty good idea squishin er down with an excavator. Where there's a will, there's a way.


NICE looking wire harness! I haven't seen a V-Dub swap so I'm looking forward to how this comes out.


I "think" the flat pitman arms are shorter so may affect your steering travel. Maybe somebody that has run them will chime in.


My TG kit said I didn't have to move steering box but, I really did. If not, my tie rod and drag link were directly on top of each other. Moving my box forward and angling it put the two steering rods parallel and got the drag link up and out of the way.


More work than slapping on another drag link but cheaper as far as parts go. Just something to consider.

dub tek

I found a few different "Drops" to some aftermarket arms
I didnt need totally flat
I bought a "Half Drop"
We shall see when it arrives

The Travel differences due to length is something I didnt think of
Ill be checking this also


I too had to move the steering box
This was due to the TDI oil pan tho
I assume it would have "fit" with the stepped 22re


Wiring IS what I do...
Standalone engine management systems on Vws is my gig

I have never seen another built up toyota pickup in person
Plenty of lifted "Big3's + Jeeps" running around tho.....

dub tek

WelP >> SheS Alive!!..

Notice when it starts...
It sounds VERY dieselly'"
Then when I add the MAP sensor to the mix the turbo starts to spool up
runs a positive 1.5-2.0 PSI at idle!!!
Who says you cant anti-lag' a diesel motor...... HAha


[YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]

dub tek

Some VW background.

Motor is from a 2004 Golf/Jetta
1.9L Electric over Mechanical Injection Pump
Software for ECM allows LOTS of control (Boost-Idle+WOT/idle-max Rpm/3 power modes/ext..)
Turbo Charger is Garrett VNT
Down Pipe is DIY 1.75-ish" > stepped to 2.5" > 2.5" Flex > 2.5" straight piped
Dual Core Intercooler
EGT
Electric transfer pump 3psi

Plumbed in prep for Propane injection



Its a digital drive by WIRE swap, so no mechanical throttle cable...
Fully electric control should provide me some decant road milage tho
Followed by a swap of the tune where the road ends for added FUN!!!

I still have a LONG way to go before I can actually drive it.........
Mount: front shocks + Hoops
Buy + install > rear shocks + mounts
Window Washer Bottle + pump
PCV Catch Can/reburn port
Figure out an ECM box for in cab protection (Pass foot well)
Have front drive shaft made/make it... Still reading on this topic
Sort out front brake line mounts/brackets/lines hard+flex'.....
plus some other BS im dont even know about yet.. HAha

aztoyman

Looks like a clean install. That's a lot of room between the radiator and front cover. Too bad you don't have a couple more cylinders.


Sounds good. What kind of power will you have?


Do you have to run a vacuum pump for your power brakes?

dub tek

LOL at more cylinders...
Current config made about 145Hp/325Tq before 2Krpm
1.5-2PSI at idle ~ 28/30ish at WOT


Vacuum pump is mechanical, bolted on head, cam driven
I use it for brake booster and VNT control as diesels dont make vacuum

aztoyman

Cool build. Keep the updates coming.

dub tek

[YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]

Little incab with the scan tool
Checkn to see shes makn all 40 PSI...(green line in video)

lil_red_yota

Sounds awesome!

dub tek

A buddy sent me this of us rolling around in the parking lot yesterday

[YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]

aztoyman

That don't sound like no Toyota. That's Bad Ass!

dub tek

Yea Its got some squeeze.. HAha
The motor swap IS my department
Like I said from the get go Im a VW guy this yota thing is kinda newish


I have seen LOTS of these swaps online
SO many peeps posting
It doesnt have the nut' to get it done
Too small and they over heat
That turbo is a pee shooter, buy a real diesel
BLA bla bla....


Im willing to guess they dont have the swap proper
The TDI motor from 99-04 is LEGIT & makes SOLID power
Once I get the bugs worked out (Swap stuff + Rig mods/problems)
She should hold her own vs our local big3 crowd...

aztoyman

A bit off topic but, the sickest diesel swap I ever saw was when I worked at a Caterpillar dealership.


Some dude used to come in for work on his old International Scout. He stuck a turbocharged 3208 in it. That's a 636 cubic inch hunk of iron! PLUS he turned up the fuel settings!


It was a total hack job and I can't even imagine how it handled.


Just goes to show how much the technology has advanced. Your little V-Dub with modern technology is a smarter swap.

dub tek

^^ LOL at that
Cool truck wrong motor...
plus hack swaps are NEVER fun to deal with



My DITTO STORY:
local guy whom I do not know yet....
has what looks and sounds to be a 2 stroke detroit
8V71 IDK it might even be a 8V92
in a buggy/truggy/rolling/jobber-chassis thing...
Sounds to be a 3 speed manual

Its a TOTAL BEAST
probly 44's or better
5Tons if im guessing axles...
and in his case RAW power is making up for all other issues
(including the one between his ears....)
LOL





But for a street legal rig I think I should do fairly well all around
Im more then happy with the initial install/results
Time and miles will tell the tale tho'


Were slated to catch a healthy winter storm
followed buy a lake effect dump this weekend
nowa is calling out 12-18 with localized 24-30" in a 72 hour window
YEA thunder snow conditions!!!


too bad Im stuck in 2WD cause NO front drive shaft...........
Back to building ALL weekend!!!