85gijunk4x4

well, here it goes. Picked ths one up june 21st 2011, just alittle after noon. here she was when i first saw her. Just happened to catch it out of the corner of my eye on a back road outside of cohansey/alloway area. Sittng behind a barn, went up and knocked on h guys door and he let me take it out for a test drive (obviously its been sitting for awhile ) but started right up.



originally the guy wanted $800, but after some shooting the bull, we relized how small of a world it is, and agreed on $250! well worth it. Now remeber, it was farm truck, so its pretty beat up.

Main intentions were to buy it, throw all my huge stash of parts on it and resell it or an awesome profit, but after a couple minutes and laps around the fields the next day pops fell in love (working on my 88 with me was a reason he tarted liking old yota's....not so much my 85 or other 88 though for some reason)





















well here's all the pictures i have uploaded for now, have plenty more to come, just dont feel like going through the process of uploading haha! anyway, pops drove it home, and then i talked him into driving it in the winter to keep the wear and tear off of his f150 (and ya know....to have somebody to pay for insurance and registration dont tell him i sad that). he seemed pretty happy with it. Plans are now to use it as the beater, keep the wear and tear off his f-150, and keep the weekend wheeling off my 88 and go ahed to fix it up to be a MINT rig!

drove home good, just had one problem i need help with....seems the timing is a tad off, not too bad....on the way home, after a good 15 mins or so, once it warmed up, it started running pretty rough, sputtering some and wanting too stall out. Any ideas what it is? side note* drove home without a radiator cap on...would that cause te rough running?

Before i forget, its a 1986 regular cab, shortbed 5 speed 4x4 22r low mileage rattley old honky-tonkin no BS plane jane ole' bare bones yota. Probably about the cheapest model you can get, didnt even come with a radio.

Anyway, back to the point of the thread, the buildup part. Since for now this truck will be the beater, i probably wont even clean it up. Just throw a bench seat in it, brakes, oil, mirror, tailights, tailgate, crankshaft mainseal, and some headlights and a couple fuses and run it like that. Wich of course, i already have the parts in my stash, making the grand total of m road worthy rig only $250

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

For your part of the country it seems to be a real solid truck. Even down where I am at, you have the typical bed rust but the rest looks solid once you get beyond the bed.

As far as your rough idiling after warm up, I wouldnt think leaving the cap off would cause that. I am more comfortable in the 22re world, but having an 88 22r, I am learning new things as well. I will say with mine and my brothers 22r, when running right, two pumpsof the throttle and they fie off fast. Also looks as though no one went and messed up with all of your vacuum hoses. These do have plenty of hoses.

Back to your idling issue, could it be the choke? Maybe not functioning right? Carbs arent my strong point.

Here is a link that was posted on another thread I was on. Maybe it will help from bone collector...http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/

85gijunk4x4

its funny, when i brought the truck home i convinced my friends it has some killer camshaft because of the way the idle was "loping"....read on the internet a bad EGR makes the truck sound like its cammed. I'll take a look into that.

I had it out yesturday, ran it for awhile, after it got hot, seemed to do the whole sputter thing, but not nearly as bad as it did the first time (rad cap was on this time) and mind you it was getting hot, about 3/4 up on the gauge. Of course, it needs coolant (actually a total flush and what not) it barely has any right now. Hopefully a nice flush, and toyota red will keep the temperature down and then i wont have to worry about the whole sputter issue.

carbs arent my strong point either, but it seems to be just fine. Fires right up, and has no problem running from idle (or below) all the way up to what i'm guessing is about a thousand rev's shy of redline.

Anyway, as far as rust, my most solid truck ever without a doubt. Toyota beds, flimsiest things i've ever seen. I was no joke, BEATING the tailight mounting tabs last night to get them to move, those little tiny tabs....BEATING THEM....as for the rest of the bed, no matter what kind of beating/pressure i put on the bed i couldnt get it to move, so the tailgate will just have to work alittle funny.

As for a buildthread update, bent the bed straight, put on a set of tailights and a tailgate i had laying around.

and yesturday pulling out stumps, i shattered a corner light, but hey, i have about 9 more laying around

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

quote...and yesterday pulling out stumps, i shattered a corner light, but hey, I have about 9 more laying around...quote...lol...I got a kick out of the 9 more laying around.

I added a link from bone collector I think has some helpful info.

85gijunk4x4

dont even know how i ended up with so many. And monday i'm going to pick up more! well actually, buying mint condition fenders for the silver truck, and even though i idont need the grille and corner lights i haggled the guy into throwing them in....because i can

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Seems like I get extra and then eventually run out of them. I am really starting to like these little 22rs. Just got to get back into the carburator time frame again.

85gijunk4x4

I love both my 22r And 22re, can't say there's much difference between them. 22re seems a bit more responsive, but it's hard to say given each engine was treated differently. Besides that, straightpiped 22r sounds way more beefy than the 22re wich sounds more ricery. I have 2 3vz's and like them alot as well, regardless of what people say. I don't think they're that slow, well yeah, they are slow, but they do good if you're like me and abide by the speedlimits. I wouldn't expect the 3vze to ever do above 70 for me (nor will I drive that fast) so I guess my expectations are low. They are pretty peppy engines, beat on my first one pretty hard with over 243xxx miles and it never seemed tired. Seems to be alot more reliant on electronics than the 22r/e's so that could be a problem of you do alot of sloppy wheeling

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I had a 3.0 and loved it. I have the same low expectations as well. A 4 cylinder isnt exactly a hotrod motor itself. I have never seen a 3.0 with less then 200k miles on them and 300k isnt uncommon. I was really shocked when I first got into Toyotas the high miles on them.

When someone ask about rebuilding or swapping, someone always jumps in and says do a 3.4 swap. I have a 3.4 and it runs well and is a great motor, no doubt about it, but i would really be intimidated doing the swap myself. I am a little disappointed in the gas mileage. It has alot more computer and electronics and that intimidates the heck out of me. For someone with experience, I say go for it. But a newbie, I always let them know for a first rebuild, stay stock. Swapping would be tough for someone like me that knows a little about these.

The 22 series motors are great for a beginer and reasonably to work on. But it does have some problems that are easily fixed for the most part and someone with inexperience and a little know how can get the job done right.

As much as I like the little 22s, if I was going to do a a swap on a truck, I would look into a OM617 diesel as it has no electronics and supposedly more power and better mileage. If I do have any disappointment in the 22 is in a 4 wheel is the gas mileage. 18-20 is about all you are going to get. In my 2 wheel I could get 30 mpg.

Just saying when I hear people bad mouthing the 3.0, and do the 3.4 swap, I am always thinking a little different. Most probably dont have the time,tools,space, or money to do any kind of swap, so I always suggest staying with what you got.

85gijunk4x4

hmm, havnt updated in awhile, i've made alot of progress though

just one problem. A major rich condition. Any ideas? Obviously, its not tuned up at the moment, so i'm waiting to get the sparkplugs and wires, fresh fuel, filters cap and rotor etc. the whole nine yards before i start tinkering with the carb mixture.

Any ideas why its running rich? i dont think a tune up would make that big of a difference leaning the mixture out...i'm leaning towards a choke problem. I've read about how the elctronic choke works and all that but it still beats the heck out of me. Anybody want to throw some ideas out there?

and on a side note, its runs great, just idles funny. Feels nice and peppy and runs like a top, i feel like messing with the rich/lean screw would kinda mess that up

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I cant help with the carb issue, but like you said, I would do the tuneup and see what happens. I would suggest running some fuel cleaner and in the tank and thru the carb. maybe even do the full Seafoam treatment.

May be just me, but I would try everything else just to keep from messing with the carb, but then again, I have learned so much by getting in over my head on these trucks and digging myself out. Might try half a turn and just remember the exact amount to get it to where it was. I would say it has to be somewhat close to where it should be unless someone just started turning screws that didnt have an idea of what they were doing.

85gijunk4x4

Got alot of progress done, and awaiting a MAJOR update, but figured i'd stop here first. I'm currently in the market for 31's (for now, maybe 33's, and then i'll swap in my 5.29's and maybe 35's or so.) I want to get some armor, i have a decent back bumper, just want to make some mods to it. Weld on some D-rings, raise it up and tuck it in closer, ditch the rusty bolts for grade 8's and maybe beef up the frame some, and lastly, a cool on board air tank kinda thing integrated into the bumper (bumper being the tank). Then i think i have a set of sliders from a friend, finally decided to ditch that 80's front bumper and find something cool.

Anyway, reason i came here....lockers. I do alot of on-road driving, and most importantly ALOT of snow driving. Heres where its a pain. I NEED open diffs in say, 3-4 inches of snow. Then, once it snows overnight, you're NOT moving without a locker, at about a foot of snow or greater. Say you get moving pretty good and hit some off camber trails (even in just mud off camber) you NEED an open diff.

as far as i'm concerned (not to belittle spooled rears, welded rears, lunchbox etc) just wont do the job right.

say i'm just going wide open through mud bogs, level ground, and some trail riding, and some on road, sure as heck i'd go with a spool or welded.

anyway, anybody have opinnions as far as selectable lockers. The E-locker thing sounds pretty cool, but i havnt read into it so i would have to check to see if its do-able on my rig. ARB lockers sound great, and i can add on-board air but they are expensive (dont think cheap is an option when it comes to lockers though )

85gijunk4x4

so who's ready for an awesome update?

the drive home! and yes, believe it or not, these pictures were taken in new jersey.





woahh! doing like 60 in this picture...new record?



finally home. funny story, included in my purchase price of $250 was a new radiator cap...well, forgot to put it on, so drove home with this thing steaming and spewing coolant all over the place. Pretty funny. Did okay, ran kinda junky, and by the time it heated up it barely wanted to move...bad EGR? NOPE! i'll tell later.


Okay, have done alot with this truck and have tons of pics that dont really need an explination, but i'll add and explination for viewing pleasures.


parked next to a scion



took out trash





towed some stuff





parked next to another scion



drove to grandmas



drove in grandmas woods





drove home from grandmas



did a whole amazing 25mph



pulled out stump (after we got the stump all out i was messing around and decided to climb up on it, ended up breaking the light like i mentioned erlier)







heavy stump! Put this thing in 4low and pulled it right out...of course, after like 80 some odd tries.

85gijunk4x4

good stuff. it was running pretty bad. Terrible idle, lack of power, VERY VERY rich. did the valve lash, vales were way off, didnt fix anything. Did a tune up, ngk silicone wires, denso plugs, denso cap and rotor, all good stuff. Didnt fix the problem....checked timing, way off, but still didnt fix the problem. Checked for vaccuum leaks, none, still didnt fix the problem. Gave a carb a mediocre cleaning, still didnt fix the problem. checked all the linkages, choke cams, choke thises and choke thatses, still didnt fix the problem SO FINALLY, as much as i didnt want too, i popped the cap off the rich/lean screw and leaned it all the way out. didnt change a thing, screwed it all the way in, didnt change a thing. Still flaming out of the exhaust, pouring out smoke and foul gasoline odor, still ran poorly, but after like 1500rpms ran great. Starting thinking maybe a vaccuum leak, or a bad float stuck way open, or bad choke etc. even bad egr....

turned out the AAP (auxillary acceleration pump diaphragm) was ruptured, pouring fuel into the carb. Pulled the vaccum line and plugged it and we're good to go. Runs fine!

heres some pics. Valve lash







at 12x,xxx or however many miles this thing has, chain is still good to go!

tailgate and lights and all that.

Looks like the rear was used as more of a battering ram, and the tailgate got ripped out rather than removed, but here we go. BEAT the tailight holes as close to straight as possible to atleast fit (the silver trucks old broken lights) in there. Beat the tailgate metal down and welded in washers as reinforcments, then used the silver trucks old tailgate and hardware and stuff.











here is the rear all done. cant even tell anything was ever wrong!





take a look at this closeup and you can see its not exactly right, but i was BEATING the heck out of it for a good half hour so i called it good enough.

85gijunk4x4

interior! not many "after pics" but you can see the difference. I wont even label pictures, just post them so you can see.















rust free cab seams!!







heres the best after picture i have. My 88's old bench seat and the carpet i cun down to sieze since it used to be in an xtra cab. Also used the nifty shifter metal thingy i used on that truck with the olive drab green screws



my wiper switch repair





also put on new wipers i had laying around...alittle used, but still good.



old shocks, new shocks. (well used...stole them off my 88)





so after all this expensive hard work, what is the total cost of this truck up too? Drumroll please!

Truck :$250.00
Parts :$100.00

Only spent $100 on the tune up! All the other parts i had laying around. Grand total is $350.00!!

Okay, and i bought tires too. $450 for a set of balanced 85%+ 31x10.50 bfg mudders on wagon wheels i got from a buddy.







way better stance with the new meats...oh, and i forgot to mention i dicted that ugly marty mcfly bumper.





and last but not least......






I PUT MY TAGS ON





All good to go!!

just need to put in some coolant since it all leaked out due to a bad water pump gasket...I have all those laying around too, so thats free as well.

and some pictures for good mesure.