7m4x4dude

have you tried cutting the stocking mounting off so it becomes thinner?


the supra rad was to wide, and i had to clearence the body a good amount to clear it.

ronnie4

That's good to know, I haven't cut the stock mounting off, but if i do it should go in without problems, guess I will try that next.

Thanks again

7m4x4dude

yeah i had a stock rad, but decided to try to use the supra rad instead.

ronnie4

How much wider is the supra radiator? Did it require minor trimming or some major cutting to get in?

7m4x4dude

i pulled out the cut off wheel and a hammer and made room for it. :p

well .

some tie news. The dmv has changed how they go about changing owner ship on lost titles and i have to get the last registered owner to go to the dmv in kelso? or where ever he resides and sign an affidavid lue of title. or shome like that.


so now im pist, this sucks and i think i might be planning a trip to kelso soon.

7m4x4dude

here's some pictures of what i did Ron.

Before.


some triming.



lower portion of triming.




now that the rad is fitted, i know i could cut about 4-6 inches more of this area out would give me better air flow over the rad. some thing im thinking about doing.


here's a pic of where i had to cup the area for clearence.







all of the pic's are on the passenger side.

7m4x4dude

well i got it to crank and i do have spark.

time to get the fuell supply installed.

ronnie4

That's awesome man!, thanks for the radiator pics now I just have to decide what I want to do.

ronnie4

So I found a pretty good wiring write up using a pre 89 truck harness.

http://www.4wheeler.ca/index.php?showtopic=19639&st=150

7m4x4dude

hey guys, i have a question some one might know better then what i could come up with.
im looking at fans and have been eye balling the FAL, low profile seires that are 2 5/8 thick. they flow 1250cfm @ 9/11 amps and come in both Straight Blade and S-blade design.
you can also get them in a dual unit, flowing together are 2500cfm, 19.5 amps. @ 13.5 vdc.


now i dont have the room in front of the rad or behind it to fit the dual fan set up, but im worried i might need it.

should i try to slide my drive train back? how far could i go before i could damage or break parts?


i was also thinking i could buy a pusher and a puller fan and mount one on either side of the rad & on either end's of the rad.

934rnr

The pusher, puller fan install sounds like the only thing you can do.
Either that or you gonna have to make a large shroud and put in a single large pusher only in the front.
You gonna have to push the radiator as close to the motor as possible to use a large pusher in the front though.
Also you gonna have to trim the hell out of the grill or do a custom one.
You gonna have to do alot of trial and error test fitting but I am sure it's doable.

www.supracharged.com is a good resource.



This guy is doing dual fans in the front.

This is the linkhttp://www.intellivationdesign.com/4Runner/4Runner.htm how he did it and pushed his engine back if your thinking of doing that.

I know for myself when I changed transmissions out in my 82 truck I went from a L52 to a G54.
The g54 is longer I had to use u-bolts over my frame to install my budbuilt low profile crossmember.
Although the rear mounts that were on the frame I still could use to mount the front of the mount.
Either that or weld new mounts on the frame. I didn't have to do anything to the front engine mounts.

Here's a single pusher idea for you:

bigtrucknwheels

you gotta be setting some kind of record for speed and cost on this swap haha

sounds like the ultimate beast, a beater with a fast engine, some 33's, and 4WD...

I plan on making mine into a street queen when I do my swap, and I will take all the time I need to make it look completely stock as possible. I am watching this thread and reading up on others so I know just what to do! Keep up the good work.

7m4x4dude

hahaha , thanks guys. it's not my first swap so i knew what i was in for. also being ase certified helps out alot too.

i should be ordering some fans tonight then, that way i can keep pushing forward.

well i tore apart my locking hub that was giving me trouble, and found it to be quite rusty on the inside...
luckie enough i had stopped by a junk yard today i manged to score a 96 isusu tracker front passenger hub.


i figured out a rather quick way to remove those awful cone washers.,

i found that if you use a stud remover of 8mm size you can back out the studs enough to remove the cone washers easly, if not he whole stud and cone washer.

bigtrucknwheels

Nice! I got a set that needs to come off my 89 and I cannot for the life of me get them off. I will try this method.

ronnie4

Did you find any wiring color differences between the 90-95 chassis? I can't find wiring diagram for the pre 90 anywhere.

7m4x4dude

ron what year do you have?

i have an 87 and have been doing fine finding wires so far.

most gauge cluster wires are the same. i've noticed toyota has a color sceme for certian items in their cars.

any ways, i get a pretty good deal at the local toyota ,i'll call them monday and ask how much some pre89 electrical books are, should be really cheap since most of them are carbed trucks. (thinner books)

7m4x4dude

finished rebuilding my hub with the one i found from the 96 tracker.

corax

FYI the power steering thing, you can use the stock truck power steering pump and hoses (makes replacement finding parts easier) - just cut the 7M back half off the A/C bracket, fab up 2 little adapter plates to mount the PS pump to the chopped A/C bracket and have the 7M pulley bore machined out to 18mm (.710") -- forgot to take a pic of the bottom bracket, but it's pretty simple once you see it.

from my thread over on Supracharged

7m4x4dude

thanks corax


finding supra parts is never hard for me though.

plus i have already had a new hi-pressure power steering line made, i just have to wait till monday when they open back up to pick it up though.

ronnie4

This is what mu kick panel area looks like, which connectors are ih1 and ih2?