1UZ > 94: Yes, looking for opinions, guidance.
07-09-2016, 12:28 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
1UZ > 94: Yes, looking for opinions, guidance.
Ok, I'll do my best to keep this brief: (update: impossible) Here's the main questions if you don't want to read the whole thing:
1) Is the 1UZ headache free once it's set up, or is this a tweaker project that shouldn't be depended on as a daily driver or as an adventure vehicle? (live alone, only got this rig - no wifey or gf to cart me around)
2) WILL it run cool with the right setup in an IFS in 100+temps.
3) Getting a shop to do this: Can a regular well-rated shop whose looking for a cool project do this or do I really need to find a specialty shop?
4) What are all the little things the shop needs to know to do this 'right'?
5) I figure parts, labor, donor, exhaust, bugs: ~12k. I think it's worth it compared to a new/nearly new truck payment or putting $2k into the 3VZ - or should I just live with the 3VZ, put some headers on it and call it good?
6) Is this 1UZ a PIA to work on as much as the 3VZ because of space?
7) Can anyone recommend a good shop in the San Fernando / Conejo valley area? Any of you guys around there? I can pay a little more than just beer and pizza if someone wants to take this on - I'll be there an learn.
Ok, here's the dramatized story buildup:
I have a 94 xtra cab 3VZE manual. It's my only vehicle. I have street parking only and, haze if you must, I am not much of a wrencher; not due to lack of interest, mostly time, space. I am single, only have this one vehicle: If you want the whole sob story, just ask. Otherwise; moving on:
I've been building this truck up over the last 4yrs:
Blazeland ext travel IFS in front (pretty sweet for budget performance)
3" lift bracket in front (came with)
3" blocks in back: I swapped for 3" Skyjacker leafs
Reverse U bolt in back
Marlin Short shift (really sweet)
TG tube bumpers and doors
Component headlights / Smitty winch.
I had a sunroof put in, replaced the rear window, re-tinted the xtracab windows, put in some Corbeau seats - these bits just to say I love this truck and intend to keep it for a long time. I'm a teacher so it's all about the slow and steady with budget.
Current dilemma: I sprung to have the engine rebuilt 2yrs ago because the damn head gasket blew (I know; roll of the dice with that engine). I was in a bit of a panic because as I said - it's my daily driver which basically meant $25-30/day rental. At the time I was new in the area and yelped for a repair shop. Price to repair HG: a lot. Price to rebuild engine: not much more. So at 320k, I had the engine rebuilt. This is prior to getting hip on the best components to get to do that rebuild (there's a thread on this site with all kinds of details about setting up a 3VZ: didn't know about it at the time) and the shop was just your regular wrenchers, not enthusiasts or admirers.
SO. 2yrs later now, I have very low compression in two cylinders due to bad valves. Repair warranty is long gone. Original shop says they will give me a a good deal to do their best to make good but I'd rather just bite the bullet and put money towards a worthwhile engine.
I like the 1UZ over the 3.4 mainly because for basically the same price category, I can get significantly more performance from that engine. I'm willing to throw all the costs on a card and just consider it a car payment for a few years. I like the old trucks. A new or newer one would be nice but to get it to where mine is now (add-ons, that is) would cost more than this swap ultimately and I still wouldn't have a sweet v8 under the hood. (new TRD: 30k min)
Sorry this is long, bear with me.
I've read through many times as many threads as I can about this swap. My main concerns are:
COOLING - I often wheel in the desert. Temps in SoCal are easily in the 90's anywhere and often break 100 during the hot months.
SERVICING - Shops already complain about contorting themselves to do anything on the 3VZ. the 1UZ is even bigger.. like I said, mostly will need shops to do maintenance in the future for me.
BUGS and SQUASHING THEM - Usually after a swap thread ends, theres' not much follow up. I am wondering, does this swap end up being a swap n' forget? Or does it need endless tinkering? Is it really for "project" enthusiasts? I honestly want something reliable that I'm not going to sweat bullets about when I'm 40 miles in somewhere. Need real feedback here.
WHERE I'M AT WITH IT:
I talked a while ago when I first learned about this swap (unfortunately AFTER I had it rebuilt) with Don Taylor of Northwest Toys. Very helpful and knowledgeable guy. I've determined that because I need this done in a timely way and done thoroughly, that I would ultimately go with their swap kit. Pricey, yes - but I'll end up paying one way or the other, this way will just be less headache and downtime when it's all said and done (so I assess). Plus, I don't mind paying someone for doing something I will never get around to doing or have the knowledge to do. I read several times that when Don was designing this kit, he wanted it to look factory. I respect and trust that level of detail.
That swap kit comes with extensive details for the process, but in the threads, I see a lot of other things come up. What I intend to do in this thread is create a comprehensive list of things that need to be addressed and the best way they have been addressed so when I drop the bomb on a shop, they will have all the information they need to date. I imagine I'll move this to another thread to clean it up one things are contributed so it becomes a resource but for now, I'd appreciate any offerings. But before I get to that, here's what the NWT kit comes with followed by things I've picked up on the threads to create a base to work off of.
Also, I might just be bona fide crazy how I'm looking at this, so (tastefully, please) call it if you see it.
Ok, NWT kit comes with:
Flywheel
Clutch
Motor Mount
Body spacer
Bell housing
Radiator
Shroud
Spal fan
Sending unit
Billet Rad cap
A/C condenser
Wiring harness build
Transmission cross member
Other things I'll need:
Tundra 2001-2 ex manifolds (or)
SC 400 91-96 ex manifolds
Oil pressure switch
Warbro upgrade fuel pump (recommended, not necessary)
Marlin HD clutch
Custom exhaust build (I prefer sneak attack so I don't need anything too growly)
Things I read that would help:
Slave cylinder for clutch: drill out, re-tap reverse bolt-in for easier service.
What am I missing? (my mind, probably)
OK, have at it. Whether I go through with this or not, perhaps it will at least serve as a collated source of info. Many thanks in advance.
Shawn
1) Is the 1UZ headache free once it's set up, or is this a tweaker project that shouldn't be depended on as a daily driver or as an adventure vehicle? (live alone, only got this rig - no wifey or gf to cart me around)
2) WILL it run cool with the right setup in an IFS in 100+temps.
3) Getting a shop to do this: Can a regular well-rated shop whose looking for a cool project do this or do I really need to find a specialty shop?
4) What are all the little things the shop needs to know to do this 'right'?
5) I figure parts, labor, donor, exhaust, bugs: ~12k. I think it's worth it compared to a new/nearly new truck payment or putting $2k into the 3VZ - or should I just live with the 3VZ, put some headers on it and call it good?
6) Is this 1UZ a PIA to work on as much as the 3VZ because of space?
7) Can anyone recommend a good shop in the San Fernando / Conejo valley area? Any of you guys around there? I can pay a little more than just beer and pizza if someone wants to take this on - I'll be there an learn.
Ok, here's the dramatized story buildup:
I have a 94 xtra cab 3VZE manual. It's my only vehicle. I have street parking only and, haze if you must, I am not much of a wrencher; not due to lack of interest, mostly time, space. I am single, only have this one vehicle: If you want the whole sob story, just ask. Otherwise; moving on:
I've been building this truck up over the last 4yrs:
Blazeland ext travel IFS in front (pretty sweet for budget performance)
3" lift bracket in front (came with)
3" blocks in back: I swapped for 3" Skyjacker leafs
Reverse U bolt in back
Marlin Short shift (really sweet)
TG tube bumpers and doors
Component headlights / Smitty winch.
I had a sunroof put in, replaced the rear window, re-tinted the xtracab windows, put in some Corbeau seats - these bits just to say I love this truck and intend to keep it for a long time. I'm a teacher so it's all about the slow and steady with budget.
Current dilemma: I sprung to have the engine rebuilt 2yrs ago because the damn head gasket blew (I know; roll of the dice with that engine). I was in a bit of a panic because as I said - it's my daily driver which basically meant $25-30/day rental. At the time I was new in the area and yelped for a repair shop. Price to repair HG: a lot. Price to rebuild engine: not much more. So at 320k, I had the engine rebuilt. This is prior to getting hip on the best components to get to do that rebuild (there's a thread on this site with all kinds of details about setting up a 3VZ: didn't know about it at the time) and the shop was just your regular wrenchers, not enthusiasts or admirers.
SO. 2yrs later now, I have very low compression in two cylinders due to bad valves. Repair warranty is long gone. Original shop says they will give me a a good deal to do their best to make good but I'd rather just bite the bullet and put money towards a worthwhile engine.
I like the 1UZ over the 3.4 mainly because for basically the same price category, I can get significantly more performance from that engine. I'm willing to throw all the costs on a card and just consider it a car payment for a few years. I like the old trucks. A new or newer one would be nice but to get it to where mine is now (add-ons, that is) would cost more than this swap ultimately and I still wouldn't have a sweet v8 under the hood. (new TRD: 30k min)
Sorry this is long, bear with me.
I've read through many times as many threads as I can about this swap. My main concerns are:
COOLING - I often wheel in the desert. Temps in SoCal are easily in the 90's anywhere and often break 100 during the hot months.
SERVICING - Shops already complain about contorting themselves to do anything on the 3VZ. the 1UZ is even bigger.. like I said, mostly will need shops to do maintenance in the future for me.
BUGS and SQUASHING THEM - Usually after a swap thread ends, theres' not much follow up. I am wondering, does this swap end up being a swap n' forget? Or does it need endless tinkering? Is it really for "project" enthusiasts? I honestly want something reliable that I'm not going to sweat bullets about when I'm 40 miles in somewhere. Need real feedback here.
WHERE I'M AT WITH IT:
I talked a while ago when I first learned about this swap (unfortunately AFTER I had it rebuilt) with Don Taylor of Northwest Toys. Very helpful and knowledgeable guy. I've determined that because I need this done in a timely way and done thoroughly, that I would ultimately go with their swap kit. Pricey, yes - but I'll end up paying one way or the other, this way will just be less headache and downtime when it's all said and done (so I assess). Plus, I don't mind paying someone for doing something I will never get around to doing or have the knowledge to do. I read several times that when Don was designing this kit, he wanted it to look factory. I respect and trust that level of detail.
That swap kit comes with extensive details for the process, but in the threads, I see a lot of other things come up. What I intend to do in this thread is create a comprehensive list of things that need to be addressed and the best way they have been addressed so when I drop the bomb on a shop, they will have all the information they need to date. I imagine I'll move this to another thread to clean it up one things are contributed so it becomes a resource but for now, I'd appreciate any offerings. But before I get to that, here's what the NWT kit comes with followed by things I've picked up on the threads to create a base to work off of.
Also, I might just be bona fide crazy how I'm looking at this, so (tastefully, please) call it if you see it.
Ok, NWT kit comes with:
Flywheel
Clutch
Motor Mount
Body spacer
Bell housing
Radiator
Shroud
Spal fan
Sending unit
Billet Rad cap
A/C condenser
Wiring harness build
Transmission cross member
Other things I'll need:
Tundra 2001-2 ex manifolds (or)
SC 400 91-96 ex manifolds
Oil pressure switch
Warbro upgrade fuel pump (recommended, not necessary)
Marlin HD clutch
Custom exhaust build (I prefer sneak attack so I don't need anything too growly)
Things I read that would help:
Slave cylinder for clutch: drill out, re-tap reverse bolt-in for easier service.
What am I missing? (my mind, probably)
OK, have at it. Whether I go through with this or not, perhaps it will at least serve as a collated source of info. Many thanks in advance.
Shawn
Last edited by scberry; 07-09-2016 at 12:43 PM.
07-12-2016, 09:43 PM
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Ok, I'll do my best to keep this brief: (update: impossible) Here's the main questions if you don't want to read the whole thing:
1) Is the 1UZ headache free once it's set up, or is this a tweaker project that shouldn't be depended on as a daily driver or as an adventure vehicle? (live alone, only got this rig - no wifey or gf to cart me around)
This will be a daily driver if setup correctly.
2) WILL it run cool with the right setup in an IFS in 100+temps.
If your running the right setup then you should be fine. The electric fan will be running most of the time if your slow go wheeling in those temps.
3) Getting a shop to do this: Can a regular well-rated shop whose looking for a cool project do this or do I really need to find a specialty shop?
A shop that knows how to do engine swaps should be more then capable of this swap. If they don't know what an engine swap is, then move on to the next one. I am more then happy to work with a shop if you find one that wants to do this swap for you. We are not centrally located for you but we do swaps in house up here in Oregon if you needed.
4) What are all the little things the shop needs to know to do this 'right'?
This is a pretty straight forward swap. Having the right version of 1uz is important. If you get a SC version then some items on the engine need replaced, such as the hydraulic fan setup. There is a small coolant nipple on the coolant neck that needs plugged. Easily missed during the install. Find a yard that will sell you an engine with a good engine harness as it will be needed so you can plug it into our harness. Find a good SC400 air box. It will fit into the engine bay with minor modification and look stock.
5) I figure parts, labor, donor, exhaust, bugs: ~12k. I think it's worth it compared to a new/nearly new truck payment or putting $2k into the 3VZ - or should I just live with the 3VZ, put some headers on it and call it good?
We typically bill for about 50 hours for a complete install. I think your a tad high at the 12K mark. Engines typically run about 600 to 800 up here and your looking at 4 to 5k for our parts. Shop labor should run about 3K. With wear able items I would add 500. This should put you under 10k. A 3VZ will always have problems. Its just a badly designed engine. Headers will help but the heads are just so thin that eventually you will be back here again!
6) Is this 1UZ a PIA to work on as much as the 3VZ because of space?
There is no denying that this is a big engine, but even with its size, your still more then able to change plugs, wires, cap, rotor, belts, ect with the engine in the vehicle. The core support is heavily modified to fit our radiator. Pushing the radiator as far forward as we do helps get the space needed to make working on this engine as easy as possible. We also designed our kit so the engine can remain in the vehicle if a clutch swap was ever needed.
7) Can anyone recommend a good shop in the San Fernando / Conejo valley area? Any of you guys around there? I can pay a little more than just beer and pizza if someone wants to take this on - I'll be there an learn.
Sorry I don't know of anyone down that way. If you find someone that is willing to help then there is a great opportunity to identify how your truck is built. There is no education like hands on!
[/COLOR]Ok, here's the dramatized story buildup:
I have a 94 xtra cab 3VZE manual. It's my only vehicle. I have street parking only and, haze if you must, I am not much of a wrencher; not due to lack of interest, mostly time, space. I am single, only have this one vehicle: If you want the whole sob story, just ask. Otherwise; moving on:
I've been building this truck up over the last 4yrs:
Blazeland ext travel IFS in front (pretty sweet for budget performance)
3" lift bracket in front (came with)
3" blocks in back: I swapped for 3" Skyjacker leafs
Reverse U bolt in back
Marlin Short shift (really sweet)
TG tube bumpers and doors
Component headlights / Smitty winch.
I had a sunroof put in, replaced the rear window, re-tinted the xtracab windows, put in some Corbeau seats - these bits just to say I love this truck and intend to keep it for a long time. I'm a teacher so it's all about the slow and steady with budget.
Current dilemma: I sprung to have the engine rebuilt 2yrs ago because the damn head gasket blew (I know; roll of the dice with that engine). I was in a bit of a panic because as I said - it's my daily driver which basically meant $25-30/day rental. At the time I was new in the area and yelped for a repair shop. Price to repair HG: a lot. Price to rebuild engine: not much more. So at 320k, I had the engine rebuilt. This is prior to getting hip on the best components to get to do that rebuild (there's a thread on this site with all kinds of details about setting up a 3VZ: didn't know about it at the time) and the shop was just your regular wrenchers, not enthusiasts or admirers.
SO. 2yrs later now, I have very low compression in two cylinders due to bad valves. Repair warranty is long gone. Original shop says they will give me a a good deal to do their best to make good but I'd rather just bite the bullet and put money towards a worthwhile engine.
I like the 1UZ over the 3.4 mainly because for basically the same price category, I can get significantly more performance from that engine. I'm willing to throw all the costs on a card and just consider it a car payment for a few years. I like the old trucks. A new or newer one would be nice but to get it to where mine is now (add-ons, that is) would cost more than this swap ultimately and I still wouldn't have a sweet v8 under the hood. (new TRD: 30k min)
Sorry this is long, bear with me.
I've read through many times as many threads as I can about this swap. My main concerns are:
COOLING - I often wheel in the desert. Temps in SoCal are easily in the 90's anywhere and often break 100 during the hot months.
SERVICING - Shops already complain about contorting themselves to do anything on the 3VZ. the 1UZ is even bigger.. like I said, mostly will need shops to do maintenance in the future for me.
BUGS and SQUASHING THEM - Usually after a swap thread ends, theres' not much follow up. I am wondering, does this swap end up being a swap n' forget? Or does it need endless tinkering? Is it really for "project" enthusiasts? I honestly want something reliable that I'm not going to sweat bullets about when I'm 40 miles in somewhere. Need real feedback here.
WHERE I'M AT WITH IT:
I talked a while ago when I first learned about this swap (unfortunately AFTER I had it rebuilt) with Don Taylor of Northwest Toys. Very helpful and knowledgeable guy. I've determined that because I need this done in a timely way and done thoroughly, that I would ultimately go with their swap kit. Pricey, yes - but I'll end up paying one way or the other, this way will just be less headache and downtime when it's all said and done (so I assess). Plus, I don't mind paying someone for doing something I will never get around to doing or have the knowledge to do. I read several times that when Don was designing this kit, he wanted it to look factory. I respect and trust that level of detail.
That swap kit comes with extensive details for the process, but in the threads, I see a lot of other things come up. What I intend to do in this thread is create a comprehensive list of things that need to be addressed and the best way they have been addressed so when I drop the bomb on a shop, they will have all the information they need to date. I imagine I'll move this to another thread to clean it up one things are contributed so it becomes a resource but for now, I'd appreciate any offerings. But before I get to that, here's what the NWT kit comes with followed by things I've picked up on the threads to create a base to work off of.
Also, I might just be bona fide crazy how I'm looking at this, so (tastefully, please) call it if you see it.
Ok, NWT kit comes with:
Flywheel
Clutch
Motor Mount
Body spacer
Bell housing
Radiator
Shroud
Spal fan
Sending unit
Billet Rad cap
A/C condenser
Wiring harness build
Transmission cross member
Other things I'll need:
Tundra 2001-2 ex manifolds (or)
SC 400 91-96 ex manifolds
Oil pressure switch
Warbro upgrade fuel pump (recommended, not necessary)
Marlin HD clutch
Custom exhaust build (I prefer sneak attack so I don't need anything too growly)
Things I read that would help:
Slave cylinder for clutch: drill out, re-tap reverse bolt-in for easier service.
What am I missing? (my mind, probably)
OK, have at it. Whether I go through with this or not, perhaps it will at least serve as a collated source of info. Many thanks in advance.
Shawn
1) Is the 1UZ headache free once it's set up, or is this a tweaker project that shouldn't be depended on as a daily driver or as an adventure vehicle? (live alone, only got this rig - no wifey or gf to cart me around)
This will be a daily driver if setup correctly.
2) WILL it run cool with the right setup in an IFS in 100+temps.
If your running the right setup then you should be fine. The electric fan will be running most of the time if your slow go wheeling in those temps.
3) Getting a shop to do this: Can a regular well-rated shop whose looking for a cool project do this or do I really need to find a specialty shop?
A shop that knows how to do engine swaps should be more then capable of this swap. If they don't know what an engine swap is, then move on to the next one. I am more then happy to work with a shop if you find one that wants to do this swap for you. We are not centrally located for you but we do swaps in house up here in Oregon if you needed.
4) What are all the little things the shop needs to know to do this 'right'?
This is a pretty straight forward swap. Having the right version of 1uz is important. If you get a SC version then some items on the engine need replaced, such as the hydraulic fan setup. There is a small coolant nipple on the coolant neck that needs plugged. Easily missed during the install. Find a yard that will sell you an engine with a good engine harness as it will be needed so you can plug it into our harness. Find a good SC400 air box. It will fit into the engine bay with minor modification and look stock.
5) I figure parts, labor, donor, exhaust, bugs: ~12k. I think it's worth it compared to a new/nearly new truck payment or putting $2k into the 3VZ - or should I just live with the 3VZ, put some headers on it and call it good?
We typically bill for about 50 hours for a complete install. I think your a tad high at the 12K mark. Engines typically run about 600 to 800 up here and your looking at 4 to 5k for our parts. Shop labor should run about 3K. With wear able items I would add 500. This should put you under 10k. A 3VZ will always have problems. Its just a badly designed engine. Headers will help but the heads are just so thin that eventually you will be back here again!
6) Is this 1UZ a PIA to work on as much as the 3VZ because of space?
There is no denying that this is a big engine, but even with its size, your still more then able to change plugs, wires, cap, rotor, belts, ect with the engine in the vehicle. The core support is heavily modified to fit our radiator. Pushing the radiator as far forward as we do helps get the space needed to make working on this engine as easy as possible. We also designed our kit so the engine can remain in the vehicle if a clutch swap was ever needed.
7) Can anyone recommend a good shop in the San Fernando / Conejo valley area? Any of you guys around there? I can pay a little more than just beer and pizza if someone wants to take this on - I'll be there an learn.
Sorry I don't know of anyone down that way. If you find someone that is willing to help then there is a great opportunity to identify how your truck is built. There is no education like hands on!
[/COLOR]Ok, here's the dramatized story buildup:
I have a 94 xtra cab 3VZE manual. It's my only vehicle. I have street parking only and, haze if you must, I am not much of a wrencher; not due to lack of interest, mostly time, space. I am single, only have this one vehicle: If you want the whole sob story, just ask. Otherwise; moving on:
I've been building this truck up over the last 4yrs:
Blazeland ext travel IFS in front (pretty sweet for budget performance)
3" lift bracket in front (came with)
3" blocks in back: I swapped for 3" Skyjacker leafs
Reverse U bolt in back
Marlin Short shift (really sweet)
TG tube bumpers and doors
Component headlights / Smitty winch.
I had a sunroof put in, replaced the rear window, re-tinted the xtracab windows, put in some Corbeau seats - these bits just to say I love this truck and intend to keep it for a long time. I'm a teacher so it's all about the slow and steady with budget.
Current dilemma: I sprung to have the engine rebuilt 2yrs ago because the damn head gasket blew (I know; roll of the dice with that engine). I was in a bit of a panic because as I said - it's my daily driver which basically meant $25-30/day rental. At the time I was new in the area and yelped for a repair shop. Price to repair HG: a lot. Price to rebuild engine: not much more. So at 320k, I had the engine rebuilt. This is prior to getting hip on the best components to get to do that rebuild (there's a thread on this site with all kinds of details about setting up a 3VZ: didn't know about it at the time) and the shop was just your regular wrenchers, not enthusiasts or admirers.
SO. 2yrs later now, I have very low compression in two cylinders due to bad valves. Repair warranty is long gone. Original shop says they will give me a a good deal to do their best to make good but I'd rather just bite the bullet and put money towards a worthwhile engine.
I like the 1UZ over the 3.4 mainly because for basically the same price category, I can get significantly more performance from that engine. I'm willing to throw all the costs on a card and just consider it a car payment for a few years. I like the old trucks. A new or newer one would be nice but to get it to where mine is now (add-ons, that is) would cost more than this swap ultimately and I still wouldn't have a sweet v8 under the hood. (new TRD: 30k min)
Sorry this is long, bear with me.
I've read through many times as many threads as I can about this swap. My main concerns are:
COOLING - I often wheel in the desert. Temps in SoCal are easily in the 90's anywhere and often break 100 during the hot months.
SERVICING - Shops already complain about contorting themselves to do anything on the 3VZ. the 1UZ is even bigger.. like I said, mostly will need shops to do maintenance in the future for me.
BUGS and SQUASHING THEM - Usually after a swap thread ends, theres' not much follow up. I am wondering, does this swap end up being a swap n' forget? Or does it need endless tinkering? Is it really for "project" enthusiasts? I honestly want something reliable that I'm not going to sweat bullets about when I'm 40 miles in somewhere. Need real feedback here.
WHERE I'M AT WITH IT:
I talked a while ago when I first learned about this swap (unfortunately AFTER I had it rebuilt) with Don Taylor of Northwest Toys. Very helpful and knowledgeable guy. I've determined that because I need this done in a timely way and done thoroughly, that I would ultimately go with their swap kit. Pricey, yes - but I'll end up paying one way or the other, this way will just be less headache and downtime when it's all said and done (so I assess). Plus, I don't mind paying someone for doing something I will never get around to doing or have the knowledge to do. I read several times that when Don was designing this kit, he wanted it to look factory. I respect and trust that level of detail.
That swap kit comes with extensive details for the process, but in the threads, I see a lot of other things come up. What I intend to do in this thread is create a comprehensive list of things that need to be addressed and the best way they have been addressed so when I drop the bomb on a shop, they will have all the information they need to date. I imagine I'll move this to another thread to clean it up one things are contributed so it becomes a resource but for now, I'd appreciate any offerings. But before I get to that, here's what the NWT kit comes with followed by things I've picked up on the threads to create a base to work off of.
Also, I might just be bona fide crazy how I'm looking at this, so (tastefully, please) call it if you see it.
Ok, NWT kit comes with:
Flywheel
Clutch
Motor Mount
Body spacer
Bell housing
Radiator
Shroud
Spal fan
Sending unit
Billet Rad cap
A/C condenser
Wiring harness build
Transmission cross member
Other things I'll need:
Tundra 2001-2 ex manifolds (or)
SC 400 91-96 ex manifolds
Oil pressure switch
Warbro upgrade fuel pump (recommended, not necessary)
Marlin HD clutch
Custom exhaust build (I prefer sneak attack so I don't need anything too growly)
Things I read that would help:
Slave cylinder for clutch: drill out, re-tap reverse bolt-in for easier service.
What am I missing? (my mind, probably)
OK, have at it. Whether I go through with this or not, perhaps it will at least serve as a collated source of info. Many thanks in advance.
Shawn
This is Don from North West Toy's, llc. I am happy to see you started a Q and A thread on your rig. There are a lot of good guys here that have done the same build. You should garner lots of useful advise. I suggest you talk to Dunkin, RMA, etc. They have been doing these swap just like me for a while.
I am happy to help you answer all your questions about this swap.
If the engine is tuned up prior to installing into the vehicle you should have lots of trouble free miles. This is a non tweaker engine swap. The biggest pain to get to is the starter. I suggest that you replace the starter prior to installation of the engine into the truck. Put new plugs, wires, and a good Bosch alternator on the engine. Once all that is done then this thing is daily driver easy. We use our rig daily and it drives as easy as the original engine did. But now you can pass what ever you want on any hill you want. It truly is a night/ day thing once its done. I am constantly redoing something on our rig to make it easier for the end user of our stuff so we are constantly improving items in design and function. If you do choose to go this route you can just fill with gas and go when ever you choose.
If you take a look at my build page, we just finished up header installation, and just built a 2.25 cross over pipe that dumps into 3" the rest of the way back. I try to update as things move forward on our build page.
Beautiful truck by the way!
Last edited by 85toyman; 07-12-2016 at 09:46 PM.
07-14-2016, 03:00 PM
#4
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Don! ok, great.. thanks for jumping in and pointing out some more details. I really appreciate it. A few of the yards I have talked to down here so far only sell the engine core -that is to say no PS, AC, harness etc. An LS 400 with 150-200k on it I can grab for about $1k - $1.2k. I think again, because I don't have the experience, I'd rather spend a little extra and get everything I need in one shot.
Ya know, I'm not opposed to figuring a way to bring my truck up there and just let you guys have at it. Umm.. what's your schedule look like??
RMA, Dunkin? anything to add?
Ya know, I'm not opposed to figuring a way to bring my truck up there and just let you guys have at it. Umm.. what's your schedule look like??
RMA, Dunkin? anything to add?
07-14-2016, 04:42 PM
#5
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I don't know anything about the 1UZ swap, but I did go through the California SMOG inspection with my 91's 3.4 swap (it's not a V8, but I would recommend it if the 1UZ doesn't work out for you) and have a few things for you to keep in mind/watch out for:
Good luck man, I hope it works out for you, as much as I would have liked the V8, it seemed like way more work than I was willing to try for a first (and only) engine swap (change), but I have been extremely happy with my 3.4 since 2012 and 30,000+ miles.
- In the eyes of the SMOG check program, when you perform an engine change (according to DMV/CARB a "swap" is replacing a 3VZ with another 3VZ, a "change" is replacing the 3VZ with a 1UZ, 5VZ, etc) you are converting your truck into that new engine/ECU. So for me, since I swapped in an engine from a 96 4Runner but used an ECU from a 97 4Runner, my 91 4Runner is SMOG-ed as if it were a 97 4Runner. Not a biggie, but something to keep in mind.
- Along those lines, you have to change to an application that was originally offered and sold in California (or maybe just the US). This means that the transmission type (auto vs manual, actual model used doesn't matter) must match something that was sold in CA/US. As far as I have seen (and I hope I'm wrong), I think the 1UZ was only sold with an auto transmission, which means you'll never pass SMOG with a manual attached (again, I hope I'm wrong on this one).
- The donor engine/ECU must come from the same model year (94) or newer as your truck.
- You'll need to add all the OEM (Toyota) emissions equipment from your donor to your truck, or find aftermarket parts with the appropriate EO (Executive Order) part number stamped into it or with a sticker visible in order to pass the visual SMOG inspection.
- The exhaust up to the last O2 sensor must match that of the donor application. You can modify it route down the driver's side if need be, but all of the components must be in the same relative position as from the factory, and all factory flanges must be used.
- The donor application is typically determined by the ECU that's used; the ref told me it could be determined based on the block, but at least with the 3.4, the blocks didn't change much from year to year but the ECUs and electronics changed every year.
- Call the SMOG referee's hot line, 1-800-622-7733, leave a message with the receptionist and a ref will call you back in a few days; this may be difficult as a teacher, especially if you're teaching summer school. Tell them what you're wanting to do, ask them whatever questions you have, and they should be able to tell you what you'll absolutely need to do to be legal in CA.
Good luck man, I hope it works out for you, as much as I would have liked the V8, it seemed like way more work than I was willing to try for a first (and only) engine swap (change), but I have been extremely happy with my 3.4 since 2012 and 30,000+ miles.
07-14-2016, 07:16 PM
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California is very strict on swaps, however I think this is being over complicated. I have never heard of having to use OEM flanges, or not being able to use different transmissions. In that case all vehicle that used the G series tranny couldn't swap to the W series and we all know that that has been done more times that any one of us can count. I have had customers that have difficulties in some area's while others customers have not. A lot depends on the REF you get on any certain day and there mood.
I do know that California requires the same year or newer to pass REF, no CEL can be present, exhaust system has to be OEM up to the last 02 sensor. From there I would call the REF department and ask them for guidance. They should be happy to help you. As always I am available and happy to help!
Right now we are about 6 months out to get you in the schedule if you choose. Since we are in Oregon and your California there would be additional time required to double check stuff. I suggest you have a shop down there that is very familiar with the rules and works with REFs on a frequent basis do this swap. If you go that route, and get stuff from us we would be happy to work with them to get this done for you.
I do know that California requires the same year or newer to pass REF, no CEL can be present, exhaust system has to be OEM up to the last 02 sensor. From there I would call the REF department and ask them for guidance. They should be happy to help you. As always I am available and happy to help!
Right now we are about 6 months out to get you in the schedule if you choose. Since we are in Oregon and your California there would be additional time required to double check stuff. I suggest you have a shop down there that is very familiar with the rules and works with REFs on a frequent basis do this swap. If you go that route, and get stuff from us we would be happy to work with them to get this done for you.
Last edited by 85toyman; 07-14-2016 at 07:22 PM.
07-15-2016, 08:09 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Wallace, great info thanks..oy..I am SO not a paperwork guy -grading papers is about as complicated as I can handle -ha.. Good to know though that there's a necessary process for Smog Cert; hadn't really thought that far ahead. I just want to curb my cursing on the Conejo Valley grade (and maybe turn some heads on the trails )
There is a 4x4 shop down here in Thousand Oaks that said they would take it on and they seem like good guys, told them I wanted a pro job if they were up to following through on details. Just get nervous, ya know? I am moving slowly on this so, step by step.
6 months eh Don? Ok. I'll pencil it in on my calendar hehe. I DO have a brother and his family in Portland so it's doable from my end from a logistics point of view and honestly, just because you guys do that swap often and made all the parts, it's just a confidence booth to go through the extra effort of having it done with you guys. Mulling it all over.
Hmm.. the smog bit has bot me a little deflated at the moment. I'll do a little digging - talk some more to that shop.
step by step.
)There is a 4x4 shop down here in Thousand Oaks that said they would take it on and they seem like good guys, told them I wanted a pro job if they were up to following through on details. Just get nervous, ya know? I am moving slowly on this so, step by step.
6 months eh Don? Ok. I'll pencil it in on my calendar hehe. I DO have a brother and his family in Portland so it's doable from my end from a logistics point of view and honestly, just because you guys do that swap often and made all the parts, it's just a confidence booth to go through the extra effort of having it done with you guys. Mulling it all over.
Hmm.. the smog bit has bot me a little deflated at the moment. I'll do a little digging - talk some more to that shop.
step by step.
Last edited by scberry; 07-15-2016 at 08:11 AM.
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07-15-2016, 09:12 AM
#8
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Glad to help, and honestly, the best thing to do is to call the Ref hot line and get the info directly from the horse's mouth.
As for the flanges, I wasn't clear, its only the manifold flanges they care about, the idea being that if the original flanges are used it's a modified stock manifold/exhaust but if new flanges are used its considered a new/custom part that would be subject to the normal SMOG exemption process that any and all parts would need to go through for an EO number.
As for the transmission, they only care about auto vs manual. If the ECU is for a manual application, they don't care if the actual transmission used is a W series, G series, R150F, or a Mucie (or whatever), just that its a manual; same with the autos, they don't care if an a340e, a340f, or a 4L60E (or whatever).
The main point of my post, was to caution Shawn of some of the SMOG issues that I came across that he may not have considered. Nothing is impossible, but knowing the rules before you start will make the process a lot easier, rather than doing it one way and having to go back and redo things to be SMOG compliant.
And yes, a lot depends on the Ref that's local to him.
As for the flanges, I wasn't clear, its only the manifold flanges they care about, the idea being that if the original flanges are used it's a modified stock manifold/exhaust but if new flanges are used its considered a new/custom part that would be subject to the normal SMOG exemption process that any and all parts would need to go through for an EO number.
As for the transmission, they only care about auto vs manual. If the ECU is for a manual application, they don't care if the actual transmission used is a W series, G series, R150F, or a Mucie (or whatever), just that its a manual; same with the autos, they don't care if an a340e, a340f, or a 4L60E (or whatever).
The main point of my post, was to caution Shawn of some of the SMOG issues that I came across that he may not have considered. Nothing is impossible, but knowing the rules before you start will make the process a lot easier, rather than doing it one way and having to go back and redo things to be SMOG compliant.
And yes, a lot depends on the Ref that's local to him.
07-15-2016, 09:57 AM
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Glad to help, and honestly, the best thing to do is to call the Ref hot line and get the info directly from the horse's mouth.
As for the flanges, I wasn't clear, its only the manifold flanges they care about, the idea being that if the original flanges are used it's a modified stock manifold/exhaust but if new flanges are used its considered a new/custom part that would be subject to the normal SMOG exemption process that any and all parts would need to go through for an EO number.
As for the transmission, they only care about auto vs manual. If the ECU is for a manual application, they don't care if the actual transmission used is a W series, G series, R150F, or a Mucie (or whatever), just that its a manual; same with the autos, they don't care if an a340e, a340f, or a 4L60E (or whatever).
The main point of my post, was to caution Shawn of some of the SMOG issues that I came across that he may not have considered. Nothing is impossible, but knowing the rules before you start will make the process a lot easier, rather than doing it one way and having to go back and redo things to be SMOG compliant.
And yes, a lot depends on the Ref that's local to him.
As for the flanges, I wasn't clear, its only the manifold flanges they care about, the idea being that if the original flanges are used it's a modified stock manifold/exhaust but if new flanges are used its considered a new/custom part that would be subject to the normal SMOG exemption process that any and all parts would need to go through for an EO number.
As for the transmission, they only care about auto vs manual. If the ECU is for a manual application, they don't care if the actual transmission used is a W series, G series, R150F, or a Mucie (or whatever), just that its a manual; same with the autos, they don't care if an a340e, a340f, or a 4L60E (or whatever).
The main point of my post, was to caution Shawn of some of the SMOG issues that I came across that he may not have considered. Nothing is impossible, but knowing the rules before you start will make the process a lot easier, rather than doing it one way and having to go back and redo things to be SMOG compliant.
And yes, a lot depends on the Ref that's local to him.
Well said. Nothing wrong with doing research and being cautious. It pays to do your homework before you drop money on a project.
07-30-2016, 03:10 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Hey all,
Been out on the land off and on the last few weeks and just beginning to get back online. So....UPDATE: Hate to say it, but due to circumstances, schedule and available funds, I chose to just get my 3VZ fixed - valves replaced, and a bunch of other stuff they found when pulling it apart. Comparatively to how it was, it runs like a new truck and feels like I have 50 extra horse now.. haha - despite the Veezy shortcomings. Amazing what a little hardware will do. The wise word here I am taking away from this is I need to move on the 1UZ project while everything is in working order and not wait until It something falls apart. It's too stressful to figure it out when shop is keeps wanting to know what you want to do while your truck is taking up space and I'm dropping daily cash on rental and no parts are ordered, not donor vehicle on site.... SO, no fun stories and pics for now. Going back to enjoying a well-running rig and find some adventures for the short term. Thanks all, for weighing in on this. It will be good to pull this thread up when I start mapping out the project in the future months.
Been out on the land off and on the last few weeks and just beginning to get back online. So....UPDATE: Hate to say it, but due to circumstances, schedule and available funds, I chose to just get my 3VZ fixed - valves replaced, and a bunch of other stuff they found when pulling it apart. Comparatively to how it was, it runs like a new truck and feels like I have 50 extra horse now.. haha - despite the Veezy shortcomings. Amazing what a little hardware will do. The wise word here I am taking away from this is I need to move on the 1UZ project while everything is in working order and not wait until It something falls apart. It's too stressful to figure it out when shop is keeps wanting to know what you want to do while your truck is taking up space and I'm dropping daily cash on rental and no parts are ordered, not donor vehicle on site.... SO, no fun stories and pics for now. Going back to enjoying a well-running rig and find some adventures for the short term. Thanks all, for weighing in on this. It will be good to pull this thread up when I start mapping out the project in the future months.
Last edited by scberry; 07-30-2016 at 03:13 PM.
