Troubleshooting 3.4 Swaps
#1
Troubleshooting 3.4 Swaps
I thought that this would be a good idea after searching for hours for users who had similar problems. I would like this thread to go like this:
Post your symptoms first.
Then the cause of your problems.
(optional if necessary) How you fixed it.
Similar to a Haynes manual if you have seen their troubleshooting section.
NO QUESTIONS!!
STAY ON TOPIC!!
I will post the first one to show what I am looking for.
Post your symptoms first.
Then the cause of your problems.
(optional if necessary) How you fixed it.
Similar to a Haynes manual if you have seen their troubleshooting section.
NO QUESTIONS!!
STAY ON TOPIC!!
I will post the first one to show what I am looking for.
#2
Symptoms:
Hard to start, bogging at first of quick throttle action while at a stop, bogging if more than a feathering of throttle was applied while under load, Backfire.
Solution:
I forgot to hook up the power wire going to my sensors.
Hard to start, bogging at first of quick throttle action while at a stop, bogging if more than a feathering of throttle was applied while under load, Backfire.
Solution:
I forgot to hook up the power wire going to my sensors.
#3
Registered User
Great idea.
Symptom: battery not charging.
Solution: my 3.4 wiring harness did not charge the battery. Had to graft the 3.4 alternator plug onto the 3.0 harness that I didn't remove (thankfully).
Symptom: battery not charging.
Solution: my 3.4 wiring harness did not charge the battery. Had to graft the 3.4 alternator plug onto the 3.0 harness that I didn't remove (thankfully).
#4
Symptom: Couldn't get codes from ECU, Code reader just said error.
Solution: I had my STA wire jumped with a constant 12v which made the ECU think I was trying to start it when I would turn on the key.
Solution: I had my STA wire jumped with a constant 12v which made the ECU think I was trying to start it when I would turn on the key.
#6
Symptom:
While driving there was no power at all, Slight bogging at idle rev.
Solution:
I unplugged my spliced plug going to the ECU and it ran great, which told me it was wiring. I had my STA wire to the ECU supplied with a constant 12v, instead of 12v just while the key was in the start position.
While driving there was no power at all, Slight bogging at idle rev.
Solution:
I unplugged my spliced plug going to the ECU and it ran great, which told me it was wiring. I had my STA wire to the ECU supplied with a constant 12v, instead of 12v just while the key was in the start position.
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Rancho Cucamonga
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after my last swap, I kept getting a po125 code. when I did the swap, I put a new cat and o2 sensors. ended up that the brown ground wire was broken at the pin inside the connector for the o2 sensor and had pulled away just (unuff) how ever it's spelled to not make the connection. once fixed, no more code.
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