tb

Hi there guys,

I'm putting a 3.4 from an 03 tacoma into an 89 pickup. I've got it in and wired, but when I start it up it runs for a few seconds then dies.

It starts every time with a couple cranks. I used the bosch relay in place of the 3.0 COR. Ignitor and MAF are both hooked up.

Here is what I have for wiring, maybe someone can find my screw up.

E5
1 WR (+)B to IH1 5 WR IGN2
2 VR W to IH1 4 V
4 BO MREL to IH1 9 BR
6 GO SPI to ?
7 G STA to IH1 16 BW
9 LY AC1 x
13 YR x
14 W SIL to OBD2 white
15 BW IGSW to IH1 5 WR IGN2
16 BY BATT to Ih1 12 BG EFI Main
17 LO PI to x cruise control
20 GW STP to IH1 1 GW Stop Light Switch
22 WL FC to IH1 6 GY COR Hookup

E6

I have 4 wires from here and they look to be for ADD and cruise control so I didn't hook any up

IK2

1 BR IH1 9 BR IG2 to injectors
2 RB IH2 7 BO Back up switch
3 GB x ADD
4 WB x 4wd activation switch on tc (upstream of switch)
5 Br Oxygen Sensor 4 O2
6 GR x vss3
7 BW IH1 2 BW 4wd detection switch on tc
8 GY IH2 10 GY oil pressure
9 BR x
10 YR IH2 5 YG H2O temp
11 LgB IH2 11 B IG2 to tach
12 WR x O2 sensor 1
13 WR IH1 / 5 MAF/VSV/AF
14 P x
15 B-R x vsv
16 B-R
17 x
18 Y-B x data link 3
19 cruise control
20 L x vss
21 X
22 B-R x O2 Sensor 3
23 Br x
24 L-G x ac magnetic clutch
25 L-B x vps or tps?
26 G x 4 low on tcase


Thats her. Hopefully someone on here has some sort of an idea on where I went wrong. I'll make sure to post up a spreadsheet of the wiring when it's finalized for future reference. Thanks.

Tyson

Aaron17

i had the same problem with my 22re, i just forgot to hook up the ground for the injectors, not sure if its the same for the 3.4 though

tb

The injectors have a good ground. Thanks for the reply though.

theMonch

Jumper the relay that you are using to run the fuel pump so you can hear the pump running, then give it a try. If it still has a problem, then most likely it is not that.

I had the same problem with my first start-up post swap and it turned out that I had the MAF sensor in backwards, which is very easy to do.

tb

Just tried that a couple hours ago. No difference in the run time. Do you mean the plug into the maf sensor was in backwards or the maf itself has to be positioned a certain way relative to the throttle body?. I'm thinking it might be something ignition related. Or possibly injectors like Aaron mentioned?

dntsdad

When it dies, how does it die?

A long, stumbling death, or instantly dead?

Most of the times these issues are related to the MAF it seems.

theMonch

Relative to the throttle body, meaning if the flow is supposed to enter in one end and exit out the other, that I had it so the air was coming in the exit side and going out the entrance side. What this does is immediately send a negative reading to the ECU that it apparently cannot understand. As soon as it starts up,the ECM sees this "Bad" signal and starves the motor right out. The MAF should have it's plug exiting out the right side (towards the center of the engine compartment when viewed from front of truck) of the sensor if it is put in correctly.

Otherwise I would also look to make sure that you have hooked up the power to it correctly. There are a number of 112v positive wires (usually white/red stripe that gang together and feed the engine's independent systems. Sometimes it is easy to miss one of the which would cause the sensor not to work entirely.

Do you have the OBDII hooked up? any codes?

tb

It is a relatively short death, like it's starving for fuel.

edit: that wasn't too clear.

It runs normally for about 2-3 seconds and then dies suddenly, as if you were to pull the EFI fuse.

tb

Thank you very much for this info. The maf is definitely in backwards. I'll go deal with that right now.

I am having problems with the OBDII plug at the moment. I am getting an error message when trying to read it. I have the white wire hooked up to the ECU, purple to 12V, Brown grounded to the rear of tb and White and black to the kick panel. Any ideas on this?

I am quite sure the 12V positive wires are all hooked up correctly. I will certainly double check those.

Thanks a lot for the help guys, it's greatly appreciated.

tb

Switched the maf around. Didn't seem to change anything. I'm going to wade through all of my diagrams tonight and go over all of the wiring in the truck again in the morning.

tb

I was able to get the OBDII plug figured out. It was wired correctly but I pulled the plug from a '96 T100. I'm lucky enough to have my old man's truck near by (2000 tacoma) and found that the white wire on his was pinned differently on his than the T100.

I repinned it (moved the pin attached to the white wire to the second hole from the left on the bottom row when facing the holes. The two grounds and the 12V wire were in the same spots.

The only code that showed up was P2118 "Main Throttle Idle Actuator Malfunction". From what I've read from 88TacoRunner's thread and elsewhere, this is to due the ETCS (electronic throttle control system) which was put in place by toyota from 2001. In the wiring manual it shows a pink wire from the ECU to the battery with a 15A in line fuse. I wish i could explain how the ETCS works but I really don't know

After looking over my wiring I am unsure of where the MREL wire goes from the ECU. Right now I have it wired to IH1 BR which goes from IG2 to the injectors. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

Thanks

Tyson

tb

The P2118 code goes away as soon as the key is turned to the"ON" position, but when the truck is started it throws a P2138 which is "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "D"/"E" Voltage Correlation".

When I remove the key after starting the buzzing sound from the throttle body can still be heard, which I assume means the ETCS is still engaged. This doesn't go away until I cut voltage to the ECTS wire at the ECU. When I reconnect the wires there isn't a sound at the throttle body until it is started again.

I am assuming this is not normal and the sound should stop as soon as the ignition is disengaged. Could this mean there is a problem with the Ignition switch wiring to the ECU?

Just thinking out loud here. If that doesn't make sense just let me know.

Another question: my truck has the A/F sensor hooked up but not the second O2. I am not getting a code for this yet. Does it take some time for the motor to run to register this code?

Edit- forgot to mention it smells like its running really rich, so I suppose the MAF still isn't out of the question

hamish_18

worked with toyotanick on his swap. And I had forgotten to have him splice 3 wires together instead of 2. It was the positive wire from the EFI relay to the +B on the ecu, and also the same wire that goes out to the MAF, injectors, etc... Once he spliced that other W-R wire, his motor ran like a champ. His was W-R, mine was W-L. Just make sure you're getting power out to all the components. You have an '03? So I hope you got the throttle pedal with the motor? because isn't it throttle by wire?

tb

Got it figured. It was in fact the MAF that was the big issue. I was running it too close to the TB, right over top of the hole that goes to the black plastic canister (not sure what its actually called). I am assuming it was reading incorrectly because some of the air flow was being diverted into this plastic canister. I moved it as close as I could to the cone filter and it runs like a champ.

I disconnected the MREL wire as well and presently don't have it connected to anything.

The 03 is not a "traditional" throttle by wire setup. It is still throttle by cable but requires the pink wire connected to a constant 12V from the ECU for the throttle position sensor to function correctly.

Thanks to everyone for the input. If anyone is having issues with their swap let me know and I might be able to help out. Thanks

Tyson

spinyard

what it the exact name of the pink wire as far as the pinout on the computer goes for the throttle control ? im chasing the same problems as you it seems got it running good after i hooked up the red / white wire