UKrunner

Ok, continue being dumb then.

77RogueRunner

Monch, the gauge sender is a 1/8 G.A.S. I'd say it's about an m10 or 12 and a tighter pitch. Toyota began using it 9/92 till current. The only mechanical way for the M16 to fit would be to tap the hole larger in the rear of the manifold...not totally crazy but it'd be real crappy to screw that up, plus you'd need a new gasket set being that you'd want to remove the mani before you tap it.
UKRunner, what's your problem? I'm trying to contribute real info here and you call me dumb? If you're still in high school I guess I can kinda understand that ignornace, considering your post that frustrated me was a deductive regurgitation of information already in this thread and had no new information of any value. For you to call me dumb you would have to have figured this out by now right? So how'd you do it? Let's stick to the topic and act like adults even if we're not....D

UKrunner

I dont have a problem but clearly you do. I was explaining the operation of the early gauge. It was a nudge to see if you knew how the later gauge worked. There are not any clear pictures of the internals of the second gauge but I have a good idea which method of operation it is using.

You can add a potentiometer anywhere in the circuit from sensor to gauge. You dont have to fit it right at the gauge.

There are, off the top of my head 2 variables you havent even mentioned yet with regard to the operation of the early vs later gauge.

As you admitted yourself, you are no electrical engineer. Well I am. I find it very interesting that you are frustrated and pissed that someone is trying to help you. Forget it. I'm going to sit back and watch this thread as I look at the royalties checks coming through the door for designing instrument cluster gauges for several automotive suppliers.


By the time you have figured out what you are missing, I'll have designed and built a completely digital gauge with bar graph and numerical reading.

theMonch

I'm still pretty baffled at this one. Now that it has moved somewhat into winter I have been watching my gauge to see what it does while warming up the motor. It seems to have no rhyme or reason to its reading. Sometimes it will jump straight to overheating upon initial startup..sometimes it will sit at cold then slowly move up in cycles (as if the thermostat is cycling) till it reaches operating temp and then sit there just like it used to until way into a ride when it will jump back into a overheating reading.

It seems to do this with no discernable pattern. I have bled the system of air on numerous occasions so I don't think it is an air bubble problem. I checked the donor engine and stock gauge operation before I pulled it and everything was spot on, as well as my stock gauge cluster before the swap.

So the only thing I can think that possibly could be happening is a sensor failure or a wiring problem between the gauge and the sensor. I have checked the wiring a few times since it is an engine swap truck and the wire from sensor to gauge was spliced. I have re-soldered twice to be certain, and it definetly is not in my splice.

The next time the supercharger has to come off I am going to try replacing the sensor, but untill then, I am going to live with the OBD-II sensor data for coolant temp for now.

How about you taco, ever make any progress...?

77RogueRunner

Not yet really. I've gathered a bit more data and got the resistance values where the gauge travels through the sticking point in the middle, to the red, and a bit above. I also got the voltage on the Zener in the gauge, 3.2 (occured to me that much of the gauge functions require a 3.4 v light bulb to test per the FSM, maybe there's a connection there). I kinda don't want to go much further until I can find a loaner gauge somehow as I don't want to mess mine up due to the delicateness of the innards. But, like you said, I too will be relying on the OBD-II in the meatime, consistant @ 196 this time of year. If I do get some more pertinent info I'll post it up. As for your situation, I'd run the resistance values on the 3 cluster terms to make sure it's not in there. I'm sure you're wiring from sender to gauge it fine...hopefully it's just sender which is cheap....D