tirogers

I also need to get wires/coils, my engine didnt come with any and figure out what auto trans engine harness plugs are now widowed and what to do with them.... any one have any pointers?

tirogers

I don't think I need to remove this much....but i hope it makes this simpler/ more reliable in the future.




The bastard dash bolt i suspect the po might have used! Was a bitch to get it. How do I pop the passenger side by the door heater vent out so i can install it easier?




Test fitting



I will figure this mess out!





Engine harness reinforced/taped up more securely...
Still need to figure out where to attach/route it to the passenger kick panel....any aone have pics how they did it on there first gen.?



crossover fitment



cross over rub....




brake booster line re worked using 3.0 line




Is it safe to assume the *# vacuum line coming from my 3.0 cruise control vacuum pump thing on the driver fender connects to the *# that leads to the 3.4 throttle body vacuum pump thingy?

I will post specific wiring questing later tonight.

Questions? Comments? ALL are welcome, good or bad.

Also I cant figure it out but rust looks SOOO much worse in pics then in person.

tirogers

so i blew up my gf front diff on her 02 4runner.....she had an extended warranty and with only 227mi when i broke the diff! didnt take much! Soooo glad I have 1st gen!

Anyways, radiator is in, top hose fits (one of the 4 from both engines) I now need to either get the right hose for the 3.4 engine output spout or swap in the 3.0 as i have read many have and use one of the existing hoses I have.

I put the 3.0 starter in. I wanted to use the 3.4's but didn't have a drilll with a chuck large enough for a 7/16 bit. So in the meantime while that's in Ill find a drill and have the 3.4 ready to go for back up.

My aftermarket oil pressure guage is now also hooked back up.

I broke the throttle cable at the firewall, so I will just get a 3.4 cable from the local pick and pull for $20, i have read this will fit for sure with no bracket modification. Turns out I still need now of the 3 vsv things. I need the sensor one with I believe no vacuum tubes?...... junk yard will have it im sure

Other then that I need to figure out the cor wiring and do the tach mod

I spliced together the 3.4 alt plug onto the 3.0 alternator harness. My plug was round, the 3.4 was an oval-ish. I am going to keep the battery in the stock location for now and run a shorty air filter for the time being to avoid spending money I don't have and ensure thing thing is gonna be dependable.

I still need to get coils/plugs and wires, any one have recommendations or a good source? My engine didnt come with any (it did plugs) so ill have to rob the GF's for the initial testing. I'm thinking later this week or next I will turn the key.

tirogers

IT RUNS!!!!! Well klind of. Regardless I'm pumped!!!! Finished up the heater hoses TIP: remove all heater hoses from the 3.4 engine prior to dropping it in! HUGE PITA to get to them other wise. Might also help to remove the 3.0 hoses from the fire wall too.

I know I should be searching for answers bit maybe someone will be kind and help me/ steer me in the right direction

Try 1: Key in, clutch in, turn key, no starter engagement, but i can hear the fuel pump turn on

Try 2: Key in, turn key to start position and hold it there (with help of a buddy) and jump the starter trigger wire on the starter to the starter + lead and it fired up!!!!

I have the trigger wire from the starter wired up to the STA in my home-brew conversion harness. Another wire i had labeled COR on my 3.4 big white body harness plug (green/yellow i think) to a green wire on the 3.0 COR (circuit opening relay).... Any one have any pointers? At this point I admit it I am getting lazy and should be searching and just want thing thing up an going!!! I do no have any EVAP stuff looked up like the VSV's or charcoal canister or 02 sensors as my exhaust isnt finished yet. If I can get it to strat with the turn on the keep and contune running I will figure the last few things out......unless these not being hooked up has something to do with it? I suspect not. It should run with out any VSV related things or charcoal canister hooked up right?


Engine sounded strong, revved high (almost red line) at first i suspected the throttle cable so I un-clipped it, tried again it revved high then came down to a "safer range" tach mod appears to have work! (knock on wood)

Time so far: 12/24/10-3/23/11 91 days..... of those 91 days I worken in it almost every day for atleast 4hrs with maybe 12days when i was out of town or waiting on parts so I couldn't do any thing.

tirogers

Ok so b4 locking my igniting and having to have the locksmith make me new keys b/c i was using a screwdriver i managed to make it start, it wasn't wired right, the key wouldn't engage the starter and it wouldn't stay running after i released the key from the start position.


I removed the harness from the truck and looked it over, i now have it to the point where turning the key to the start position engages the starter but it no longer starts

I know its just matter of hooking the few wires that i don't know where go up.... as I heard it run the 1st time I had everything hooked up semi correctly

tirogers

It runs AND drives! I was scared to death I installed the clutch backwards as other have done in this swap.

tirogers

This is how I tighten my alternator b/c i had to remove the tensionor bolt due to steering shaft clearance issues. I did not cut the "tab" off then end as others have done, i just removed the bolt. To tighten it, i used a rachet strap from the rafters to the tensioner bolt and old nut for it. You could use any nut/bolt, these were just handy. No need for pry-bars, 2 people, or waiting untill the gf gets home from work and try and talk her in to helping me in the cold garage. I have about 1/2in of clearance. Once I get an steering shaft extension I will be able to install the tensioner again

tirogers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUXmLfrG9cc

Sorry its dark, still need 02 sensors wired up, wiring neatly soldered and tucked away along with mounting the ECU. Will check engine codes soon and post back. I also expect some for evap its not there YET

Its licensed, insured, plated and on the road! Sold my old DD (ford focus) to fund finishing up some loose ends and hopefully getting bumpers, ball joint spacers and shackles for the rear. Best for last: an auto locker for the rear. It's a daily driver and its in my price range. If anyone has there parts let me know!

I also got my aftermarket gauges mounted, wired and working, oil pressure, water temp, and voltage! No more idiot guages on the dash!

One thing that is bothering me tho is that my Tach is not reading correctly.With truck off, key out ir reads a 0, put key in turn to acc or beyond it goes to 3200 and idles there, i know this is not correct. Is is possible to take the needle off and adjust it that way? I'm sure I soldered the resister correctly. If i can fix this I can put the dash back together!

Sorry i will get engine bay shots soon!









Poor toy finally got the salt washed off here! I swear i could watch the little bit of rust grow day by day!

I had it towed w/ a tow dolly to my new place in the dead of Michigan winter and it was way to cold to wash it prior to putting it in the garage. Sorry Toy! DIE RUST!!!!!

tirogers

NOTE: make your harness as small as possible but still be able to reach the corresponding plugs. I shortened mine once, this pic is of the 2nd time. I should have made it even smaller! Very tight in the ps kick panel.


new shoes 33x12.5x15 tsl swampers



I am very impressed with the gearing! It was originally an auto with 4.30 gears, i swapped in a 5speed, the 3.4 and 33's and this gearing/setup seems damn close to factory!

It was a TIGHT fit to get everything tucked away in my passenger kick panel with the ECU and jumper harness! I managed to use one on the 2 brackets from an auto 3.4 ecu I have, and manipulate it to fit.

I got junk yard 02 sensor's and its shot, i need to get a generic 02 for the rear as i used a screw in bung. I tried a screw in one off a ford escape? but it throwing codes. The downstream must just be shot as well.

FYI: Front and rear o2 sensors are the same at least in 1997. They are also used in the 4cylinder Tacoma engines. Keep in mind the wires coming from the o2 may be different lengths.

So besides the o2 sensor codes thats all i have gotten. But I dont have the evap stuff setup? Do my 02 sensors need to be fixed before it will scan for evap stuff?

Oh and I got the Tach fixed, before with just the key in the on position the tach would jump up to 3 k and stay there. I removed the cover off the guages, turned the key on, removed the tach needle and placed it at 0. And what do you know? Works perfect now! Idles at 950ish with the scanguage and almost the exact same on the tach maybe 20rpm off if you can even see that difference lol!

tirogers

Well 9000 miles now and not one issue has come up since I first got the engine in the truck and on the road! Strong engine!

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

I hope to be able to say that......eventually....