3.4 swap almost alive!
#1
3.4 swap almost alive!
First time posting, but been lurking about for long enough to have my swap almost complete. I couldn't have done it without this forum, and have pretty much used it exclusively to learn everything I've needed to get this far. Big ups to all the previous swap posters, your info has been helpful to everyone that has performed this swap so far i'm sure.
T100 motor into an 89 4runner with an R150, and I’m hung up trying to get it to fire up for the first time. Here are the details, and I thought I might be able to get some pointers from the experts!
The truck will crank but won’t start. It will run will starter fluid in the intake, spark is good. I’ve got pressure to the fuel rail, and voltage at the injectors. I’ve wired up the BATT, +B, COR relay, IGN2, and also wired up the MIL, which lights up the dash CEL light when the key is turned to IGN2 position. I believe this means the ECU is turning on. Are there any other wires I need for the truck to start? It seems like something is preventing the injectors from operating, as all the other requirements for life appear to be in order..
Any help is much appreciated, and I’m sure there is some additional info I can provide to help diagnose this.. let me know what I’ve forgotten.
I started this project about a month ago after my ’89 runner was stolen.. I missed it so much I found an ’89 with rod knock and bought a full swap ready to go. Everything is still very fresh in my head! I’m ready to get this thing to the campsite!
T100 motor into an 89 4runner with an R150, and I’m hung up trying to get it to fire up for the first time. Here are the details, and I thought I might be able to get some pointers from the experts!
The truck will crank but won’t start. It will run will starter fluid in the intake, spark is good. I’ve got pressure to the fuel rail, and voltage at the injectors. I’ve wired up the BATT, +B, COR relay, IGN2, and also wired up the MIL, which lights up the dash CEL light when the key is turned to IGN2 position. I believe this means the ECU is turning on. Are there any other wires I need for the truck to start? It seems like something is preventing the injectors from operating, as all the other requirements for life appear to be in order..
Any help is much appreciated, and I’m sure there is some additional info I can provide to help diagnose this.. let me know what I’ve forgotten.
I started this project about a month ago after my ’89 runner was stolen.. I missed it so much I found an ’89 with rod knock and bought a full swap ready to go. Everything is still very fresh in my head! I’m ready to get this thing to the campsite!
#4
no go on the obdII connector, that's the first time the wiring has been misleading in the ewd's. wrong pins, wrong colors. I don't think i've missed any wires required to start the truck, but it still won't run. this last bit is really frustrating..
#7
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Although this was not my problem it may be yours. Did you check the timing? Also what is the voltage before and after the injectors?
Good luck! I am eager for you to find your problem. It may help with mine.
Good luck! I am eager for you to find your problem. It may help with mine.
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#8
got the obdII hooked up, no codes. CEL is on with ignition. No fuel though still. AFM has power, coils have power and i've got spark, injectors have power but aren't providing fuel for some reason..that's the problem.
hot wired fuel pump, same thing. pulled a plug and it wasn't wet or smelling like gas. pulled all plugs and cranked, smell no fuel. injectors are not operating, and i don't know what the problem could be. stuck like chuck.
hot wired fuel pump, same thing. pulled a plug and it wasn't wet or smelling like gas. pulled all plugs and cranked, smell no fuel. injectors are not operating, and i don't know what the problem could be. stuck like chuck.
#11
wow, here's a shock. it's a 2000 ecm, not a 1999 as advertised. 89666-35131 is the number printed on the ecm that I googled. It looks like a build date between 1/2000 and 8/2000. That's probably not going to work, huh?
#12
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I think your 96 throttle body has 4 wire and the wiring harness has 3. You need to get 96 ECU and harness.
Does your engine has EGR? I have an ECU for 95/96 that support 4 wire throttle body. I bought it because the smog ref. thought I needed another ecu than the 2WD one that I had. I got it from Oregon actually for 150.00.
Does your engine has EGR? I have an ECU for 95/96 that support 4 wire throttle body. I bought it because the smog ref. thought I needed another ecu than the 2WD one that I had. I got it from Oregon actually for 150.00.
Last edited by anthony1; 07-14-2012 at 09:09 PM.
#13
Nope. 3 wire harness and 3 wire throttle body, though I was on the same thought process as you a few hours ago and checked that as well. Almost positive it's the different year ECM.
#14
Missed a single wire. IGSW on the ecm needed to see 12v. Wired that up and bang bang bang bang. Off to the exhaust shop tomorrow to get this thing quieted down. I'm sure I'll be back with additional info/questions, but for now she's cooking with gas. Thanks for the ideas and tips so far.
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Starting issue. The injectors aren't getting enough voltage. There is only an average of 3v being used by the injectors during cranking. If I ground the injectors myself the truck fires up for a few seconds.
Everything is leading to an ECM problem thus far.
Everything is leading to an ECM problem thus far.
#18
I was convinced it was my ecm as well, until that one wire was hooked up correctly. Mine was a fuel issue as well, even though the injectors were getting voltage. I tested the fuel pressure at the return line, and it was good. i was getting spark, power to the afm, etc. To finally figure out it was no fuel, we started it with starting fluid and it ran, and then pulled the plugs and cranked the motor while sniffing for gas fumes. nothing. finally, connecting the IGSW pin 2 on my ecm pigtail (e12, i think yours is different) to 12v switched got us fired up. the other wires necessary for my swap were batt, b+, FC for COR, and the white/lavender wire tapped to 12v switched as well for power to the AFM. Let me know if you need more clarification on that, but mine needed all those wires connected to fire.
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