Moto260

Auassay. Loosened my torsion bars and getting those spacers in was easy as could be. Thanks, I was getting quite upset considering there's a 6 minute video online about it haha. Now I can move forward.

Moto260

I was mistaking about body harness. I thought the red wire led to body but it led to that toggle switch. Then another red feeds off the toggle switch out to my pos-battery terminal. Green grounds to wiper motor, orange capped, blue to engine harness---to ECM plug, yellow acted as my starter trigger wire. Connected here--

Moto260

I hope I can just disconnect the whole stupid thing and my truck will run fine after the swap, but that blue that eventually leads to a ECM plug confuses me. I'd prolly have to get wiring diagram and trace my pin with that wire on 3.0 then 3.4 trace and splice in. (Doesn't sound fun)

Moto260

Got my flywheel turned and new clutch put on, crossover pipes on. Just waitin for an oil pan and I can put her in. Had to go back to work for a couple weeks so slowin me down a bit, but with the wait I have anyways a little extra Christmas money can't hurt. Also I found out my Air Flow Meter plug needs to be re-pinned, should be pretty simple only 6 wires. I guess my engine harness/ECM was out of a 95 and it changed a few things around including the Evap routing, so my 2001 Toyota taco Evap can is probably wrong :-/. I'll get one soon. Also found a top off craigslist and picked it up for $100. Can't beat that :-D. Just keeping everyone up to date talk to u soon

Moto260

Soo... """Finally ""@ got my oil pan. Knocked that out yesterday. Engines rdy to be dropped in besides my throwout bearing on my tranny (5 minute job). Should be in Monday when I work on er.
As for Wiring.... I'm getting quite frustrated. I ordered my wiring harness from ORS about 9-10 weeks ago. ( supposed to take 4 weeks to build) He wrote me on dec. 28th told me it should b done by jan 6th (no biggy, I know holidays are busy times ) but.. Nothing yet. Call him about jan 15th and he said it'd b done last week. Nothing yet. Idk what to do. Thinking about asking for a refund and sending my stuff to toyonlyswaps or doing it myself. Swap should b done by now. Anyways... That's my update.
As for a question...
1). Always replace oil pressure sender before u throw the engine in right? My 89 runner there's no oil pressure guage and I doubt there's a light. The one currently on it (used and beat up) is for a light. Costs $62 brand new if u can believe it. With guage (which my truck doesn't have either) is like $20 Do you guys think it matters which one I get? Or should I just re use my old one sense there's no guage or light? Thanks for any advice.

SacRunner

That's unfortunate about the ORS delays, but from what I've heard their work is top-notch, hope you hear back from them soon and get things figured out.

As for the oil pressure sensor, I'll admit that I don't know what all versions out there are, but I would play it safe and pull the sensor from the 3.0 that came out and install it in the 3.4 (even if that means splicing the sensor from the 3.0 engine harness to the 3.4 harness). Hopefully someone else will chime in who knows a little more specifics than I do.

Moto260

Ya. ORS did my last swaps conversion harness. It was great. Still not ready yet though unfortunately. Hoping it hurrys cause I'm in escrow to buy a house and it closes on the 12th >.<. Lot of renovating to do so I won't have much time. I'm rdy for my harness almost . Engines in my truck. Need to do my heater hose routing, and build a battery harness, and I'll be set for the ORS harness. Engine sits good in the bay. I'll have to post a pic soon
. As for the oil pressure sensor. I got it figured out . It's ok to re use my other one. :

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

94-95 3.0 oil pressure sending unit will be a direct swap and use the 3.4 connector , no splicing.

Moto260

Whats up everyone. So my Conversion harness is complete. I believe it'll get here next week sometime. Unfortunately, when it gets here. I'll be renovating the house we're closing on, but that's alright. Just on here to give an update and ask advise on an issue im having.
Update -- My engine sits nice, got a/c compressor converted to r134 and mounted, Alternators on (although it's extremely close to my steering. Seems closer than my other truck and i dont like it much, but we'll see how it pans out). Starter's on, Fuel line is hooked up and my Heater hoses are all hooked up. ( <<----- Unicoils FTW haha) I got my Balistic Fab Battery box that i'll mount tomorrow and i'm waiting on my Optima red top. Found out i get to re use my Charcoal canister from my 3.0, just bought a new VSV and should be somewhat simple. Im taking out that stupid switch tomorrow that was giving me soo much trouble, and i'm just hoping i have no issues when all is done. Tomorrow i will build my Battery harness as well.
As for my issue. ><
-- I put my Clutch slave cylinder on and the two bolts to hold it to the tranny stripped... Yes... Both.. They didnt even get tight, they were just spinning once they got somewhat snug. i just left it alone and moved on. It'll be tough for me to re-tap those threads. I was debating on just caking some Threadlock on the bolts and letting them sit in there, as long as the clutch slave cylinder dont move. we're good?? haha. as for now its got a "Little Wiggle". Do you guys think i should Re-tap the tight fit spot or just Jimmy it??
If i can remember ill get a picture of the truck tomorrow. Talk to you soon

Moto260

Had to build a battery harness cause all the wires in mine were carotid as hell. ran out of black tape :-P
This is where I ran my 4 guage wire to fuse box
And here's my engine. Everything loos clustered right now. >.<.

SacRunner

I'm not sure of other people's opinions, but I would highly suggest running that 4 gauge wire through some of that plastic split-loom tubing (like the wires zip tied above it) just to provide a little more insulation and protection from heat/sharp objects/corrosion; it looks like that's going to be connected directly to the batter without any fuses and you'd hate for that to wire to short out (think car on fire). In my mind its just another layer of protection and pretty cheap insurance.

Overall, looks good.

Moto260

That's a good idea SacRunner. I like that a lot better than what I did. Thanks for the advise :-D

Moto260

So another question I had. Might be a stupid question but just out of curiosity. I really don't like how my alternator sits so close to my steering box I feel like when I steer, the joint is going to hit my alternator. Anyone know if I can use a smaller alternator out of something and just splice my plug into it?

Moto260

Alright here she is. Pretty much done until my wiring is here. Hopefully this week.
Here's a couple issues I'm having at this point.
This plug under my intake manifold I don't know where to route?? Any suggestions? I know one goes to my intake tube but I don't know which one. . Here's a closer pic.
This is the one on my other 3.4 swap (no plug there) just that one line then goes to my intake system. (Hatin the little things that are different between the two)
Also having an issue adding that's VSV because I don't have a plug left for it.... I have one plug left and it don't fit... I know I got the right VSV cause I matched up the part number. But there ain't any other plugs that I could use for that. Hopefully I'm missing it and it'll pop out while I'm doing the rest of the wiring haha. Thanks for any advise guys Talk soon

Moto260

Figured the port on the front out. Googled some pics zoomed in easy as that. And got my wiring today. Gonna work on that tomorrow. And hopefully I'll figure the VSV stuff out as well. Give an update tomorrow

Moto260

SHE'S ALIVE!!!!!!!! Update tomorrow

FISHSTICKER

Pretty sure I know what your mystery relay is for. Once upon a time I thought my starter was on its last leg in my 89 Runner…..pulled the starter and brought it to a honest starter repair man. He informed me that my prized Original Denzo starter was strong as ever and recommended I look elsewhere for the problem. Well, after a little research I found that that my particular Runner is one in which the juice to turn the starter over actually travels thru the harness and ignition switch (I believe) and then back to the starter via the larger wire….as the years pile on and things loosed up in the ignition you can not pass enough juice thru to the starter.

Cheap solution is to mount a $7 relay under the hood…take the larger wire that currently goes to the starter and simply use it to close the relay…….minimal juice required. Then take the power lead from the new relay and connect to the starter. This worked like a champ and has functioned perfect for about 30,000 miles and 3 years. Much less than a new ignition switch and/or other problem component replacement. Now, I’m not saying that this is the best way to fix it but it is a common way to fix it and worked well for me. I am just starting to research a 3.4 or other swap and came across your thread.

Now it appears that your previous owner also included the on/off switch in the cab which would I assume break the circuit and prevent the truck from starting unless in the closed position.

The question is will this problem that likely exist in your Runner (that was bypassed with the relay) be eliminated with the 3.4 swap. Guys at ORS or someone more familiar with the wiring portion of this swap could answer that.

If you have it running then I guess it was bypassed by the swap. If you have what appears to be starter problems maybe not.

Hope that helps.