2 engines left out in the cold.
02-10-2010, 11:32 AM
#1
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2 engines enter, 1 leaves.
Just yesterday I paid $500 for a 1994 ext cab 4x4, std.....
Looks straight, VERY LITTLE if any rust was found, clean dark blue paint, Lt blue interior, some minor stains and a tear on 1 seat.
Wind shield will need replacing, and the tires too.
Straight axle surprised me..
Thought for sure it would be IFS on an 94.
Does not appear to be an SR5, TuRD, or LTD.
It's a short box and even the bumpers are shiny.
$500
It comes w/ two 22re's.
One was pulled for overheating??? no idea if if was damaged or just not worth diagnostics??
The other was purchased with the h2o pump leaking, it was to be put in the overheating ones place, all wires and hoses are cut from donor
Both are sitting in the bed and have been sitting that way, uncovered outside, since AUG 08.
I understand the truck and related systems will need "help"
Gas tank ickys cleaned out, brakes un-frozen/ parts replaced, some dry and cracked oil seals/ rubber etc...
What should I start w/ on the engine?
Change oil (inspect), clean electrics, install and PRAY?
Then when/IF it runs, deal w/ h2o pump?
OR
..................... what?
Thanks for your time.
I'll add pics When the truck get towed home
Repo
Looks straight, VERY LITTLE if any rust was found, clean dark blue paint, Lt blue interior, some minor stains and a tear on 1 seat.
Wind shield will need replacing, and the tires too.
Straight axle surprised me..
Thought for sure it would be IFS on an 94.Does not appear to be an SR5, TuRD, or LTD.
It's a short box and even the bumpers are shiny.
$500
It comes w/ two 22re's.
One was pulled for overheating??? no idea if if was damaged or just not worth diagnostics??
The other was purchased with the h2o pump leaking, it was to be put in the overheating ones place, all wires and hoses are cut from donor
Both are sitting in the bed and have been sitting that way, uncovered outside, since AUG 08.
I understand the truck and related systems will need "help"
Gas tank ickys cleaned out, brakes un-frozen/ parts replaced, some dry and cracked oil seals/ rubber etc...
What should I start w/ on the engine?
Change oil (inspect), clean electrics, install and PRAY?
Then when/IF it runs, deal w/ h2o pump?
OR
..................... what?
Thanks for your time.
I'll add pics When the truck get towed home
Repo
Last edited by hilandfrog; 02-10-2010 at 11:35 AM.
02-10-2010, 12:22 PM
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I'd throw an engine in it and see what happens. You need to find out what you've got to work with before you start to try to troubleshoot stuff. Who even knows if the engine was the cause of overheating in the first engine? it might be perfectly fine...
02-10-2010, 09:31 PM
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Alright, I like not spending where I do not need to.
With an engine just sitting there for a year and a half....
Do I remove the intake or just vacuum and HOPE?
Blow out the different lines... any thing to NOT pressurize w/ air?
Having not taken either of these motors out... is there an easy place to view putting them back together Hose to Hose, line to line , Wire to Wire?
Is the FSM the best answer, cause it seems like they could have included better pics
I can not imagine just slapping the motor in, w/ fluid changes being "all" there is to do in this situation, I'll be psyched if it is though.
Repo
With an engine just sitting there for a year and a half....
Do I remove the intake or just vacuum and HOPE?
Blow out the different lines... any thing to NOT pressurize w/ air?
Having not taken either of these motors out... is there an easy place to view putting them back together Hose to Hose, line to line , Wire to Wire?
Is the FSM the best answer, cause it seems like they could have included better pics
I can not imagine just slapping the motor in, w/ fluid changes being "all" there is to do in this situation, I'll be psyched if it is though.
Repo
02-11-2010, 03:59 AM
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I'd definitely replace the leaky water pump. Clean out the throttle body. I don't know if they blocked off the intake or exhaust ports in the head, if they did you should be in good shape. If not, then just use a blow tip and blow all the dirt and stuff out of there (even if they blocked them off I'd do that anyway). With an assembled engine, there's really very little that isn't sealed... all the important stuff in the bottom end is sealed. The head should be all right as long as you blow out the intake and exhaust ports to clear all the crap outta the head, just to make sure that once you crank it up you don't end up with a bunch of sand and stuff gettin sucked into the combustion chamber. I'd use some carb cleaner or something and clean out the throttle body real good, make sure it's moving good and free. But that's 10 minutes of work at best. So yeah, as long as the engine he gave you was a good engine to start with, it should still be.
I'd do basic maintenence stuff before you put it in though... rear main seal, crank seal, etc. All the stuff that's a lot easier to get to while the motor's outta the truck
I was thinking to maybe replace the timing chain guides and chain while it's outta the truck cause it's a little easier not bending over a hood to work, but I'd make sure it runs good first. deal with that stuff later. definitely do the rear main seal before you put it in though... if you get it in and it leaks, you're either pullin the engine again or the tranny to replace a $15 seal for 5 minutes worth of work.
I'd do basic maintenence stuff before you put it in though... rear main seal, crank seal, etc. All the stuff that's a lot easier to get to while the motor's outta the truck
I was thinking to maybe replace the timing chain guides and chain while it's outta the truck cause it's a little easier not bending over a hood to work, but I'd make sure it runs good first. deal with that stuff later. definitely do the rear main seal before you put it in though... if you get it in and it leaks, you're either pullin the engine again or the tranny to replace a $15 seal for 5 minutes worth of work.
02-11-2010, 07:36 AM
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I'd definitely replace the leaky water pump. Clean out the throttle body. I don't know if they blocked off the intake or exhaust ports in the head, if they did you should be in good shape. If not, then just use a blow tip and blow all the dirt and stuff out of there (even if they blocked them off I'd do that anyway). With an assembled engine, there's really very little that isn't sealed... all the important stuff in the bottom end is sealed. The head should be all right as long as you blow out the intake and exhaust ports to clear all the crap outta the head, just to make sure that once you crank it up you don't end up with a bunch of sand and stuff gettin sucked into the combustion chamber. I'd use some carb cleaner or something and clean out the throttle body real good, make sure it's moving good and free. But that's 10 minutes of work at best. So yeah, as long as the engine he gave you was a good engine to start with, it should still be.
I'd do basic maintenence stuff before you put it in though... rear main seal, crank seal, etc. All the stuff that's a lot easier to get to while the motor's outta the truck
I was thinking to maybe replace the timing chain guides and chain while it's outta the truck cause it's a little easier not bending over a hood to work, but I'd make sure it runs good first. deal with that stuff later. definitely do the rear main seal before you put it in though... if you get it in and it leaks, you're either pullin the engine again or the tranny to replace a $15 seal for 5 minutes worth of work.
I'd do basic maintenence stuff before you put it in though... rear main seal, crank seal, etc. All the stuff that's a lot easier to get to while the motor's outta the truck
I was thinking to maybe replace the timing chain guides and chain while it's outta the truck cause it's a little easier not bending over a hood to work, but I'd make sure it runs good first. deal with that stuff later. definitely do the rear main seal before you put it in though... if you get it in and it leaks, you're either pullin the engine again or the tranny to replace a $15 seal for 5 minutes worth of work.
GREAT STUFF.........
Thank you, I'll do the rear main, and I guess the front ?? crank?? too,
Seems I read to use the "right stuff" vs the cork oil pan gasket.
Making sure the EFI parts all work and are lubed well, and cleaning out the intake and exhaust/ head....
Both manifolds are still on the motor so I may remove them for better cleaning access to head...
Not thinking Mice compress and fire as well as fuel would if'N any happened to make nests in the intake or exhaust.
LOTS and LOTS of tubes hoses and wires, MY FSM needs more color pics
If anyone has really good shots of where this hose and that wire go to and from I'd love to view/ copy them.
Thanks again
Anyone else have some good advice for a dummy
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