Rear Leaf Swap Placement?
#1
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Rear Leaf Swap Placement?
I am doing SAS and rear leaf swap on my 90 (2nd gen) 4runner. Marlin/TG have some general directions as to placement of hangers and such, but not for the coil to leaf rear swap, only for trucks and 4runners already with leaf in the rear. And I have searched around and found some good pics of what you guys have done, but wanna be more precise. So I was just wondering if I could get some general measurements from you guys on where to place the rear hangers and shackle hangers. Thanks!
And I am using TG 4" rear kit...
And I am using TG 4" rear kit...
Last edited by YeloSub7; 03-28-2008 at 02:27 PM.
#2
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What size tires are you planning on running? A good way you could mock it up is tack the mounts and put the axle under and compress it to see the fit of the tires in the wells. If you plan on bigger than 37's move the axle a bit farther back. I believe I have pics on my thread that show general areas about were to mount or at least were I mounted mine. I forget the actual measurements at the moment but could get them for you later this weekend if you still need them.
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i could get you some measurements in the next couple days, but i moved my axle back almost 3". if anything, you can take my measurements and adjust accordingly...
#4
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Simple way is to measure the length of the front half of the springs (center of front eye to center pin) along the arc of the springs. Then locate the center of the rear wheel well and drop a plumb bob from that point. Now measure forward the length of the springs (as previously measured) and mark where that intersects the frame. That is where you put the center of the hole in the spring hanger. Why do it that way? Usually, you want the tire centered in the wheel well opening under full spring compression (for the best tire clearance) and that will put you in the right spot. I did that on my '85 with longer than stock springs:
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ah thanks, ya i know you gotta just play around with this stuff to get it to where you want it. Just was looking for at least somewhere to start. Thanks guys!
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I put mine where seemed to me that would be OK and seems that I was right.
Seeing other build-ups here at YT seems that the usual place is where the frame rails start to kick up:
David
Seeing other build-ups here at YT seems that the usual place is where the frame rails start to kick up:
David
#7
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With TG 5" springs on a 90 4Runner.
Front hanger:
Rear shackle point:
Shackle angle:
Of course, like everyone else said, checking for wheel placement is the best way to go. And be sure to remember that as the wheel compresses, the axle goes backwards in the wheel well due to shackle movement.
Front hanger:
Rear shackle point:
Shackle angle:
Of course, like everyone else said, checking for wheel placement is the best way to go. And be sure to remember that as the wheel compresses, the axle goes backwards in the wheel well due to shackle movement.
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thanks for the pictures guy! Hopefully I can get mine welded up soon. Just need to finish some more grinding/cutting...
another question I had was bumpstops for the rear. I have seen most people use nothing, elvota has some, and ukmyers just left his stock coil spring ones. What do you all recomend. And then I see that many of you have also cut out the stock frame brace back there and replaced it with a custom tube one. Is this necessary?
another question I had was bumpstops for the rear. I have seen most people use nothing, elvota has some, and ukmyers just left his stock coil spring ones. What do you all recomend. And then I see that many of you have also cut out the stock frame brace back there and replaced it with a custom tube one. Is this necessary?
Last edited by YeloSub7; 04-04-2008 at 11:04 AM.
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I recommend you to use bumpstops. I don't have any because I'm going to add airbags in the rear but I had some bad rubbing with 35's and no bumpstops, I pretty damaged the pinchweld.
Also, you'll worn your leafs sooner if they get negative arch.
As for the crossmember, you don't need to cut entirely, only the coil buckets and the panhard bracket. You can put a bracket to hold the shocks vertically between the two frame braces above the rear axle. This is how I did and I got the shocks completely vertical (More effectiveness).
This is what happens when you don't use bumpstops
David
Also, you'll worn your leafs sooner if they get negative arch.
As for the crossmember, you don't need to cut entirely, only the coil buckets and the panhard bracket. You can put a bracket to hold the shocks vertically between the two frame braces above the rear axle. This is how I did and I got the shocks completely vertical (More effectiveness).
This is what happens when you don't use bumpstops
David
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well I want to use bumpstops, just might as well use the stock coil ones where they are at if they work. I can always cut them off and make different ones if I need too...
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