88toypickup

So I am trying to figure out if I will be able to do a sas this summer. I will make enough money, but I can't blow it all on my truck (as much as I would like to). I was thinking about just using marlin's spring hanger kit with a rough country 3" lift kit. This way I would have a lift for the front and the rear, and it is only a little more than $400. Also, this would probably be about right for my 33s and when I get more money I could buy the rest of the kit. Will this work? I haven't been able to find a good answer to this question anywhere.

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1988 Pickup 4x4, 33x12.5 BFG All Terrains, 1.5" AAL, 1.5" ball joint spacers, OME torsion bars, 4.88 gears, rear true trac and front aussie locker.

904_runner

What about steering?

+$300

Its not cheap dude, i spent at least a couple grand to get mine done.
Purchase of axle.
rebuild
Gears/lockers
then the kit
other tools, fluids, paint, etc......

I still need to upgrade the inner axles. etc...

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Mike

1990 4runner: 3.4 swapped, 5-speed, sas'd, Rear leaf swap, Locked, 5.29's, 39.5" iroks on Beadlocks, Armor'd

Longfields, Duals coming soon:


My build thread
http://www.yotatech.com/f152/904_run...thread-158746/

http://www.treadlightly.org/

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ery/index.html

88toypickup

I understand that its not cheap. I also understand that I left a few things out, like gears, steering, brakes, shock hoops etc. However the question remains: can I use a Marlin crawler spring hanger kit with a rough country (or other) lift kit?

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1988 Pickup 4x4, 33x12.5 BFG All Terrains, 1.5" AAL, 1.5" ball joint spacers, OME torsion bars, 4.88 gears, rear true trac and front aussie locker.

RaginYota

I am sure that you could make it work.

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I did have a 1990 X-cab P/U, 3.0 SAS'd w/ 3" Trail Gear IFS Eliminator Kit, 4" Trail Gear Rear Lift Kit, 35" KM2s, Yukon 4.88s, Locked Front and Rear w/ Aussie and a Detroit, Sliders, M-8000 Warn Winch, But I sold it

ocdropzone

You will need to figure out the length of the Rough Country springs (probably stock length) for the placement of the front spring hanger and where to mount the shackle mounts. I don't remember if the Marlin Front hanger comes with the shackle Jig. Do you have a front axle yet?

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~Robb
'81 Trekker The B4Runner Build
TREKKER Forum
Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread

88toypickup

The major question is if marlin springs are the same width as stock springs (2 inches maybe?). And also like you said, what is the length of stock vs marlin. Oh and I do have an axle, an 85.

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1988 Pickup 4x4, 33x12.5 BFG All Terrains, 1.5" AAL, 1.5" ball joint spacers, OME torsion bars, 4.88 gears, rear true trac and front aussie locker.

berm84

how can i do the budget sas i have gears and a locker in the front and all the hanger stuff wat else do ineed besides shocks and springs and streering

88toypickup

I think that is all you need. Here is what I am planning on using.

$60 sky front hanger
$35 sky frame tubes + jigs
$12 junkyard f250 shock mounts
$180 for a set of ome lift springs
$300 for hi steer.
$50 for stock '85 SFA driveline
$20 for stock shackles
$100 for shocks

Plus gears, lockers, brake lines etc.

I am probably forgetting something. Anyways this is what I am planning on using. The main concern is whether or not the hi steer will work.

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1988 Pickup 4x4, 33x12.5 BFG All Terrains, 1.5" AAL, 1.5" ball joint spacers, OME torsion bars, 4.88 gears, rear true trac and front aussie locker.

waskillywabbit

Friend of mine had some RC springs and they sucked, made for mall crawling. IMO, NO the RC junk will not work and you will have wasted $400.

Budget your SAS and what you want to do. Then double it and you will have a good idea of what it will realistically cost.

Using aftermarket parts and paying for labor you are looking at $4K+ easily.

And after a SAS then you need tires, armor, lockers, etc.

"Budget SAS" is an oxymoron at its finest.

You will spend more money trying to be cheap and save money than if you just save your money in the first place and buy a proven SAS kit and rear lift.

Good luck.

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88toypickup

The main reason that I am calling it a budget sas is that I am already geared to 4.88 have 33s. If I keep it low (3" overall) I should be able to keep my 33s and only have to regear 1 axle. Also lifting the back end shouldn't be as expensive either since I already have 1.5" AAL. I should be able to get away with a longer shackle and new shocks. As far as installation expenses go, worst case scenario is I have to pay someone to do the welding. I can do the gears and locker (I've done it before). I realize that I will only be saving (hopefully) around $300 over just buying a kit (as far as components for the front go). It is everything else that I will be saving money on(rear lift, tires gears, drive shafts). Oh and I am not planning on using rough country springs, I am planning on using old man emu springs. I haven't heard anything bad about their performance. So in the end I might not end up with an extreme rock crawler, but I will (again: hopefully) save money and have a truck that meets my needs.

Edit: I just read the through the whole thread and I realized that I was planning on using rough countrys a while back when I started this thread. Now I am planning on using OME's, sorry for sounding a little snappy.

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1988 Pickup 4x4, 33x12.5 BFG All Terrains, 1.5" AAL, 1.5" ball joint spacers, OME torsion bars, 4.88 gears, rear true trac and front aussie locker.

algranger

Man from experience i will tell you to just save up and do it right.. do-overs suck. And you wont gain much from hacking it together.

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I said lie, for me

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Spinnbait

I'm suffering from a substantial case of "if I knew then what I know now...” Save your pennies for about another 60 days and rethink your build.

By the way, I am on the 3rd iteration of my front suspension and nearing the 3rd for my rear (not entirely regrettably in that I have acquired a great deal of knowledge and experience).

Much like you, I planned to stay at 33 inch tires. I am, now, about to jump to 37's.

It is your money and time, but give it another thought before pulling the trigger.

Oh and, It will always be a project, as it is never done.

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Cannondale Rush 3 carbon (my new baby)
Surly 1x1 (my D/D)
1973 Schwinn cruiser (my shop bike)

TOYOTA 1

i used 3.5" tuff country springs for the front to save a lil cash, they seem to flex pretty good. i think i paid $170 to my door.

or you could always do an RUF swap, and then get some 63" Chevy's for the rear.

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91 Toyota "built not bought"

85excab

if u have any experience fabbing stuff, u can save alot of money.
a few things i built for the sas on my 4runner are:
front hanger
shackle tubes
shackles
u-bolt flip plates
shock hoops
extended front driveline


and things i had to purchase were
3" leafs used $50
u-bolts $25
crossover steering $200
4.88 3rd with lockrite $50

and i got extended front brake lines for free
so it can be done on a budget.

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i drive by brail.

Rock Solid Motorsports

http://www.rocksolidmotorsports.net/

http://www.lunatic4x4.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=45

whokrz

Save your money and do it right.
Use Toyota rears in the front and make your own pack or use Marlins springs.
If you can make your own brackets that is a plus.
Marlin high steer, and Bilstein shocks are nice too.