91 Yota SAS Need Advice. 1st time

OV Kid · 09-21-2009, 07:37 AM

I've had and wheeled a stock 1991 toyota xtra cab pickup for 3 years now and its time for an upgrade. It does pretty good as is, stock with 31 muds, but I want to advance my wheelin.

I picked up a front axle of a 83 yota this weekend, and I'm buying some 35's off of a buddy for way cheap. I think you see where I'm goin with this.

I'm a poor college student so money is limited. Whats the best/most affordable way for my truck to be solid axled and sitting on 35's? (By the way, I have access to a full fabrication shop full of equipment and tools)

-Thanks

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gilby4runner · 09-21-2009, 07:47 AM

why not go with ball joint spacers and some taller leafs in the back and wheel it until the IFS dies? It would be cheaper and easier then doing a full SAS. (keeping your financial status in mind)

OV Kid · 09-21-2009, 03:21 PM

I dont want to spend money doing things the crapy way. I've never heard of IFS "dieing". I'm going to do a SAS. I'm just looking to do it as cost effective as possible

toyota4x4907 · 09-21-2009, 03:28 PM

Get a rear locker and wheel the IFS more...Get some 33x10.5 tires instead of the 35s.
IFS is not the "crappy" way.. its just not the SFA way.

BAMF_CT2004 · 09-21-2009, 03:45 PM

why not just fab your own sas kit for "FREE"since you have access to a shop. Thousands and thousands of people have done it. get yourself a set of thornbirds and you will be rockin

**waskillywabbit** · 09-21-2009, 04:13 PM

Welcome to Yotatech.

There are several threads on this forum along specifically about cheap SAS. Search.

bain · 09-21-2009, 04:15 PM

A stock SAS truck wont go much better that a stock IFS truck.To use a SAS to its utmost performance you will need front and rear lockers. I dont see you getting out of this cheap..My truck is IFS with a 3 inch lift,35's, lockers and twin cases and its gone places less equipped SFA trucks couldn't go. I say put the 35's a cheap 3 inch lift a locker or 2 and cut your fenders and you'll be amazed..

ILLINOISYOTADAWG · 09-21-2009, 04:46 PM

i had an 82 yota with sfa and now also have an 86 ifs with lockers and 35's and can get just as far as i used to with the 82 with the 86 ifs

OV Kid · 09-21-2009, 05:45 PM

I plan to do gears and lockers soon. Once I get a job I'll be good to go but I dont want to wait to do the SAS. I am going to fab pretty much everything, but does anyone know where to get the best deals on a high steer kit?

I'm not looking to be talked out of doin the SAS. I'm just looking for tips to do it them most affordable way without sacrificing quality. I'm amazed that on a wheelin forum so many people are discouraging me from doin the SAS.

flashkl · 09-21-2009, 06:45 PM

I agree with you, the SAS I woulda done first too if I had the ability, even just for the cool factor. Plus, the only time I've ever gotten my truck stuck was in a puddle with deep ruts I couldn't see in it... my front left and rear right were hanging in midwater. If I had a locker I coulda gotten out, but if I had the SFA I coulda also gotten out because I wouldn't have flexed out. And a SFA is much easier to point out and brag about than a locker

whokrz · 09-21-2009, 08:25 PM

I would run your 51" or 48" rears in the front, they will max out a 14" shock and they are cheap/free. You have 51" springs currently in the rear.
If you don't plan to carry a lot of weight in the bed I would run S10 or F150 springs in the rear. If you carry lots of weight these springs can get a little exciting in high speed turns. I ended up using 51" Toyota springs in the rear for on road stability because I carry lots of weight for work, this however limits wheel travel a bit but not to bad.
You will also need a few more spring packs to mix in to the front and rear to provide lift and support. S10, BroncoII, Wagoneer and Toyota leafs work well and are common in junk yards. Look for the thin leafs they provide more wheel travel.
Here is a picture of 51" toyota springs front and rear.

Things I would buy
1) Hysteer
2) Tie rod and drag link - unless you can make them
3) Pitman Arm - I am not sure if your current pitman arm will fit the FJ80 tie rod end
4) 4 Tie rod ends - I would recommend napa's fj80 ends when your end wear out.
RH Thread - Napa #269-2854
LH Thread - Napa #269-2855
The ones I got from trailgear did not hold up well, and I do not know if marlins are any better. The set on my tie rod lasted about 3 months and developed excessive movement. The set on my drag link lasted about 2 years. The Napa brand on my tie rod has been on for 3 years and still has no movement.
5) 4 center bolts and nuts that holds the leaf spring together, sorry I can't remember the proper name
6) 16 Spring bushings - For rearToyota leafs get them from marlin they are the "Spring Bushing, Large" ones. The outside diameter of the trail gear ones are to large and you will have to shave them down.
7) 8 Shackle bushings
8) 12 greaseable 18mm bolts - The grease fittings on the trailgear ones break off very easy, I would buy a few good fittings at napa I haven't broken any of theirs yet.
9) 12 stover lock nuts 18mm
10) 4 Bilstien shocks 14" front 12" rear
11) 3 Extended brake lines
12) U-Bolt Flip Kit - unless you can make this easy

Things I would make
Front spring hanger
Spacers for the front shackles
Shackle hanger frame tubes
Rear shackle hangers
Rear spring hangers
Shackle plates
Shock hoops
Rear shock bar
Axle shock mount
3/8" Spring Pad Spacer
Bump stops
Frame reinforce for steering

Things you already have
steering box
Your brake booster and master cylinder will work fine
For the brake upgrade on the front axle, you already have the calipers but I am not sure if your rotors are the same as the FJ60.
I have heard that you can use parts from the IFS to widen the front axle so you may not need wheel spacers.

If you need measurements for stuff just post it here and I will take them for you.
Hopefully this will help you out and congrads on the SAS

whokrz · 09-21-2009, 08:27 PM

O ya and welcome to yotatech

OV Kid · 09-22-2009, 10:24 AM

Thats what I'm looking for. Thanks Bro.

I got Yota 51' with the axle that supposevly will give the front a 5 inch lift according to the guy I got them from.

And I was planning on going with chevy 63" in the rear, is that a good way to go?

And then I should be able to fint a high steer kit that comes with pitman arm and tie rods and stuff I think, but are those kits usualy no good? Am I better off buying quality stuff individualy?

OV Kid · 09-22-2009, 10:25 AM

Oh, and I got word that a place I used to work is looking for someone and they want me to come back. (I quite there about 2 years ago to go build Hot Rods at a local shop). So I'm going to go in today and with any luck I'll have income soon.

Then the fun realy begins.

bain · 09-22-2009, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OV Kid

Oh, and I got word that a place I used to work is looking for someone and they want me to come back. (I quite there about 2 years ago to go build Hot Rods at a local shop). So I'm going to go in today and with any luck I'll have income soon.

Then the fun realy begins.

sounds like things are falling into place

whokrz · 09-22-2009, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OV Kid

Thats what I'm looking for. Thanks Bro.
I got Yota 51' with the axle that supposevly will give the front a 5 inch lift according to the guy I got them from.

48" springs or 51" springs will both work and if set up correctly will both max a 14" shock.
The 51" spring will move your axle forward about 3 inches. The front hanger will need to be moved forward about 3" as you can see in the picture I posted. 37" tires never hit your firewall. Even at full stuff and lock I have a little less than a inch, I could trim my firewall a little and run 39" tires with much trouble.
The 48" springs will move you axle forward about 2 inches. I have read that 37" tires rub a little on the firewall and you will need to beat on it a little bit. The front hanger sits flush or a little forward depending on desired lift and shackle angle.
It sounds like you have 2 sets of 51" springs so that would probably be the cheapest route

Quote:

Originally Posted by OV Kid

And I was planning on going with chevy 63" in the rear, is that a good way to go?

This is a debate that keeps going back and forth.
I decided not to run them because of pictures I have seen and what I have read. To get lift out of them you end up with really long shackles which gives you rock anchors and kinked springs or you end up with lift blocks which gives you more axle wrap causing reduced traction. I have seen S10 springs and F150 springs that flex just as well and do not require really long shackles or lift blocks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OV Kid

And then I should be able to fint a high steer kit that comes with pitman arm and tie rods and stuff I think, but are those kits usualy no good? Am I better off buying quality stuff individualy?

I think that six shooter high steer is probably the strongest and cost $399 with the arm, but you will have to buy knuckles for an additional $249 http://www.trail-gear.com/six-shooter-knuckles.html. I upgraded to these after the trunion post loosened up on one of my sky arms due to me failing to keep them tight. I chose to do this because down the road I may run 39" tires and liked the stronger knuckle and extra studs.
My next choice would be marlins high steer with the arm which is $399 http://www.marlincrawler.com/steerin...teer-kit-hilux

OV Kid · 09-23-2009, 06:57 AM

Ok, I appreciate all the good advice.

I dont plan to run any bigger than 35's (Atleast for a long time) so it sounds like 48" or 51" shouldnt mkae much difference for me, so I'll just use what I have.

I've seen the marlin high steer kit and I agree thats the way to go. But with the knuckles, is that something I need to do right away or is that an upgrade I can do a few months down the road after the sas once I have more steady cash flow?

whokrz · 09-23-2009, 05:57 PM

Marlins high steer arms only fit the stock knuckles which are 4 stud. The six shooter knuckles only fit the six shooter arms and are 6 stud. If you will eventually want stronger arms and knuckles this would be the time to do it as they are not interchangeable. Marlins arms are very strong as are the stock knuckles, just make sure you keep them tight This is what most people run and don't have to many issues. Breaking differentials and axles are more common.

OV Kid · 09-24-2009, 03:00 PM

Ok. Since I dont have overwhelming amounts of money I think I'll run the stock knuckles. It sounds like it will be strong enough for what I'll be doing.

Kiroshu · 09-24-2009, 03:08 PM

A toyota IFS is def one of the toughest ever mad for 4wheelin. They provide a bit more comfort and handling but do have more wear points. A solid axle has less wear points and is alot tougher but trust me that IFS you got is no going anywhere its def the toughest out of all trucks. Have you ever compared it to others? its way more beefier and amazing.It was mainly for comfort hadling and gas mileage the IFS came out. But if you wanna do SAS and feel like a traditional yota thats cool. But um its not cheap man.... they have to cut out alot of parts and metal that the IFS is in.... It saddens me to see someone do that but then the solid yota axle is pretty sweet.... its not going to be cheap and its along journy good luck.

OV Kid · 09-24-2009, 03:43 PM

It costs just as much to lift a IFS Toyota as it does to do a SAS. And you cant possibly be trying to say that Solid Axle isnt way better for wheelin. Thats just crazy talk.

And when you say "they have to cut out alot of parts and metal that the IFS is in.", Who is they? I'm doin it all myself. Sure it would be hella expensive to pay a shop to do it, but if your paying a shop to work on your rig you shouldn't own one as far as I'm concerned.

I've never heard of someone trying to restore a Yota back to stock. That boggles my mind

Kiroshu · 09-24-2009, 03:48 PM

Ok um i did not know you were doing it yourself first off lol

Second i never said solid axle isn't better i acctaully said its alot tougher with fewer wear points and is def way more reliable for wheelin i was just stating the point the the Toyota IFS is still very good and one of the best IFS... Oh and um you have not been on yota tech long and theres a butt load of people restoring their yotas, myself incuded. I'm restoring my 86 4runner back new.... so yea just look around yota tech here a while you will find out some interesting stuff. And yes i too work on my own truck lol just didn't know you did.

tc · 09-24-2009, 04:12 PM

To really get the benefit out of a SAS, you need to really build the hell out of it - beefy high steer and Longfields at a minimum. Look around, some have done it cheaper, but it generally ends up costing $3000 when it's running right.

If you're not locked yet, you're not running trails hard enough to NEED a SAS. You can WANT a SAS, but I think the general advice here is going to save you a lot of money that it sounds like you don't have.

31's (or better yet 33's) locked will outwheel a SFA open/open rig on 35's ANY DAY. I 'wheel with plenty of SFA rigs, and it's not my front suspension that limits me - it's the driver and his desire to avoid body/glass damage.

OV Kid · 09-24-2009, 10:48 PM

Kiroshu-

My bad if I sounded like an Ass in my response. Its just that my post asks for advice on doin a SAS and I've had hella people respond and tell me not to do it. I'm not asking if I should, I'm asking how I should so it's gettin on my nerves.

OV Kid · 09-24-2009, 10:54 PM

tc-

High Steer and Long Leafs isnt that big of a deal. I understand that it would be assine to do a SAS without it.

However, doing the work myself will save hella money. I've priced everything on Marlin Crawler and to be SAS, 35's, bilstin shocks, high steer, Long Leafs, geared, locked would cost less than $3000.

And there are three kinds of trucks in my opinion: Daily driver, Wheeler, and Daily Wheeler.

I'm building a Daily Wheeler. So, as far as your comment "it's the driver and his desire to avoid body/glass damage." I see nothin wrong with a well equiped truck being clean. I want to built enough to go almost anywhere, but clean enough to attract almost any girl.haha

If theirs 2 joys in my life, its wheelin and girls.

If theirs 3 joys in my life it's Beer, wheelin, and girls.haha

09-21-2009, 03:28 PM	#4 (permalink)
toyota4x4907 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska Posts: 2,330	Get a rear locker and wheel the IFS more...Get some 33x10.5 tires instead of the 35s. IFS is not the "crappy" way.. its just not the SFA way. __________________ '95 4runner\|22re\|5spd\|130K miles\|ISR\| 2" BL\| 31x10.5 \| CompuStar Auto-start\| two 170mm LightForce\|anti-sway bars removed f/r\|Warn manual hubs\|ADD bypassed\|Diff breather extensions\|XLPerformance muffler '88 4runner\|22re\|5spd\|206K miles\|Sold '93 single cab\|22re\|5spd\|150K miles\|Sold\| Pro IFS

09-21-2009, 04:13 PM	#6 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,546	Welcome to Yotatech. There are several threads on this forum along specifically about cheap SAS. Search. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

09-21-2009, 04:15 PM	#7 (permalink)
bain Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: lenoir, NC Posts: 332	A stock SAS truck wont go much better that a stock IFS truck.To use a SAS to its utmost performance you will need front and rear lockers. I dont see you getting out of this cheap..My truck is IFS with a 3 inch lift,35's, lockers and twin cases and its gone places less equipped SFA trucks couldn't go. I say put the 35's a cheap 3 inch lift a locker or 2 and cut your fenders and you'll be amazed.. __________________ geared,locked, lifted, snorkeled, protected and beat all to hell and I'll never use the search button!!! Last edited by bain; 09-21-2009 at 04:19 PM.

09-21-2009, 08:25 PM	#11 (permalink)
whokrz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Suisun City, California Posts: 345	I would run your 51" or 48" rears in the front, they will max out a 14" shock and they are cheap/free. You have 51" springs currently in the rear. If you don't plan to carry a lot of weight in the bed I would run S10 or F150 springs in the rear. If you carry lots of weight these springs can get a little exciting in high speed turns. I ended up using 51" Toyota springs in the rear for on road stability because I carry lots of weight for work, this however limits wheel travel a bit but not to bad. You will also need a few more spring packs to mix in to the front and rear to provide lift and support. S10, BroncoII, Wagoneer and Toyota leafs work well and are common in junk yards. Look for the thin leafs they provide more wheel travel. Here is a picture of 51" toyota springs front and rear. Things I would buy 1) Hysteer 2) Tie rod and drag link - unless you can make them 3) Pitman Arm - I am not sure if your current pitman arm will fit the FJ80 tie rod end 4) 4 Tie rod ends - I would recommend napa's fj80 ends when your end wear out. RH Thread - Napa #269-2854 LH Thread - Napa #269-2855 The ones I got from trailgear did not hold up well, and I do not know if marlins are any better. The set on my tie rod lasted about 3 months and developed excessive movement. The set on my drag link lasted about 2 years. The Napa brand on my tie rod has been on for 3 years and still has no movement. 5) 4 center bolts and nuts that holds the leaf spring together, sorry I can't remember the proper name 6) 16 Spring bushings - For rearToyota leafs get them from marlin they are the "Spring Bushing, Large" ones. The outside diameter of the trail gear ones are to large and you will have to shave them down. 7) 8 Shackle bushings 8) 12 greaseable 18mm bolts - The grease fittings on the trailgear ones break off very easy, I would buy a few good fittings at napa I haven't broken any of theirs yet. 9) 12 stover lock nuts 18mm 10) 4 Bilstien shocks 14" front 12" rear 11) 3 Extended brake lines 12) U-Bolt Flip Kit - unless you can make this easy Things I would make Front spring hanger Spacers for the front shackles Shackle hanger frame tubes Rear shackle hangers Rear spring hangers Shackle plates Shock hoops Rear shock bar Axle shock mount 3/8" Spring Pad Spacer Bump stops Frame reinforce for steering Things you already have steering box Your brake booster and master cylinder will work fine For the brake upgrade on the front axle, you already have the calipers but I am not sure if your rotors are the same as the FJ60. I have heard that you can use parts from the IFS to widen the front axle so you may not need wheel spacers. If you need measurements for stuff just post it here and I will take them for you. Hopefully this will help you out and congrads on the SAS __________________ 1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

09-21-2009, 08:27 PM	#12 (permalink)
whokrz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Suisun City, California Posts: 345	O ya and welcome to yotatech __________________ 1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

09-21-2009, 03:21 PM	#3 (permalink)
OV Kid Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orangevale Posts: 11	I dont want to spend money doing things the crapy way. I've never heard of IFS "dieing". I'm going to do a SAS. I'm just looking to do it as cost effective as possible

09-21-2009, 04:46 PM	#8 (permalink)
ILLINOISYOTADAWG Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: SOUTHERN ILL.SE OF ST.LOUIS.MO Posts: 117	i had an 82 yota with sfa and now also have an 86 ifs with lockers and 35's and can get just as far as i used to with the 82 with the 86 ifs

09-21-2009, 05:45 PM	#9 (permalink)
OV Kid Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orangevale Posts: 11	I plan to do gears and lockers soon. Once I get a job I'll be good to go but I dont want to wait to do the SAS. I am going to fab pretty much everything, but does anyone know where to get the best deals on a high steer kit? I'm not looking to be talked out of doin the SAS. I'm just looking for tips to do it them most affordable way without sacrificing quality. I'm amazed that on a wheelin forum so many people are discouraging me from doin the SAS.

09-22-2009, 10:24 AM	#13 (permalink)
OV Kid Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orangevale Posts: 11	Thats what I'm looking for. Thanks Bro. I got Yota 51' with the axle that supposevly will give the front a 5 inch lift according to the guy I got them from. And I was planning on going with chevy 63" in the rear, is that a good way to go? And then I should be able to fint a high steer kit that comes with pitman arm and tie rods and stuff I think, but are those kits usualy no good? Am I better off buying quality stuff individualy?

09-22-2009, 10:25 AM	#14 (permalink)
OV Kid Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orangevale Posts: 11	Oh, and I got word that a place I used to work is looking for someone and they want me to come back. (I quite there about 2 years ago to go build Hot Rods at a local shop). So I'm going to go in today and with any luck I'll have income soon. Then the fun realy begins.

09-23-2009, 06:57 AM	#17 (permalink)
OV Kid Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orangevale Posts: 11	Ok, I appreciate all the good advice. I dont plan to run any bigger than 35's (Atleast for a long time) so it sounds like 48" or 51" shouldnt mkae much difference for me, so I'll just use what I have. I've seen the marlin high steer kit and I agree thats the way to go. But with the knuckles, is that something I need to do right away or is that an upgrade I can do a few months down the road after the sas once I have more steady cash flow?

09-23-2009, 05:57 PM	#18 (permalink)
whokrz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Suisun City, California Posts: 345	Marlins high steer arms only fit the stock knuckles which are 4 stud. The six shooter knuckles only fit the six shooter arms and are 6 stud. If you will eventually want stronger arms and knuckles this would be the time to do it as they are not interchangeable. Marlins arms are very strong as are the stock knuckles, just make sure you keep them tight This is what most people run and don't have to many issues. Breaking differentials and axles are more common. __________________ 1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

09-24-2009, 03:00 PM	#19 (permalink)
OV Kid Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orangevale Posts: 11	Ok. Since I dont have overwhelming amounts of money I think I'll run the stock knuckles. It sounds like it will be strong enough for what I'll be doing.

09-24-2009, 03:08 PM	#20 (permalink)
Kiroshu Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: wade, NC Posts: 1,305	A toyota IFS is def one of the toughest ever mad for 4wheelin. They provide a bit more comfort and handling but do have more wear points. A solid axle has less wear points and is alot tougher but trust me that IFS you got is no going anywhere its def the toughest out of all trucks. Have you ever compared it to others? its way more beefier and amazing.It was mainly for comfort hadling and gas mileage the IFS came out. But if you wanna do SAS and feel like a traditional yota thats cool. But um its not cheap man.... they have to cut out alot of parts and metal that the IFS is in.... It saddens me to see someone do that but then the solid yota axle is pretty sweet.... its not going to be cheap and its along journy good luck. __________________ My current: 1986 Toyota 4runner SR5 EFI 4cyl 2.4L 22RE 5-Speed 242,000 Miles 95% Stock __________________ (Still working on restoring her) My old: 1988 Toyota 4runner SR5 EFI V6 3.0L 3VZ-E 5-Speed 302,000 Miles All stock (sold)______________ (Was my fastest truck i miss her...) My old: 1989 Toyota 4runner Non-SR5 EFI 4cyl 2.4L 22RE Automatic 231,000 Miles (sold)______________ (was my quietest and slowest yota.)

09-24-2009, 03:43 PM	#21 (permalink)
OV Kid Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orangevale Posts: 11	It costs just as much to lift a IFS Toyota as it does to do a SAS. And you cant possibly be trying to say that Solid Axle isnt way better for wheelin. Thats just crazy talk. And when you say "they have to cut out alot of parts and metal that the IFS is in.", Who is they? I'm doin it all myself. Sure it would be hella expensive to pay a shop to do it, but if your paying a shop to work on your rig you shouldn't own one as far as I'm concerned. I've never heard of someone trying to restore a Yota back to stock. That boggles my mind

09-24-2009, 03:48 PM	#22 (permalink)
Kiroshu Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: wade, NC Posts: 1,305	Ok um i did not know you were doing it yourself first off lol Second i never said solid axle isn't better i acctaully said its alot tougher with fewer wear points and is def way more reliable for wheelin i was just stating the point the the Toyota IFS is still very good and one of the best IFS... Oh and um you have not been on yota tech long and theres a butt load of people restoring their yotas, myself incuded. I'm restoring my 86 4runner back new.... so yea just look around yota tech here a while you will find out some interesting stuff. And yes i too work on my own truck lol just didn't know you did. __________________ My current: 1986 Toyota 4runner SR5 EFI 4cyl 2.4L 22RE 5-Speed 242,000 Miles 95% Stock __________________ (Still working on restoring her) My old: 1988 Toyota 4runner SR5 EFI V6 3.0L 3VZ-E 5-Speed 302,000 Miles All stock (sold)______________ (Was my fastest truck i miss her...) My old: 1989 Toyota 4runner Non-SR5 EFI 4cyl 2.4L 22RE Automatic 231,000 Miles (sold)______________ (was my quietest and slowest yota.)

09-24-2009, 04:12 PM	#23 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,371	To really get the benefit out of a SAS, you need to really build the hell out of it - beefy high steer and Longfields at a minimum. Look around, some have done it cheaper, but it generally ends up costing $3000 when it's running right. If you're not locked yet, you're not running trails hard enough to NEED a SAS. You can WANT a SAS, but I think the general advice here is going to save you a lot of money that it sounds like you don't have. 31's (or better yet 33's) locked will outwheel a SFA open/open rig on 35's ANY DAY. I 'wheel with plenty of SFA rigs, and it's not my front suspension that limits me - it's the driver and his desire to avoid body/glass damage. __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

09-24-2009, 10:48 PM	#24 (permalink)
OV Kid Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orangevale Posts: 11	Kiroshu- My bad if I sounded like an Ass in my response. Its just that my post asks for advice on doin a SAS and I've had hella people respond and tell me not to do it. I'm not asking if I should, I'm asking how I should so it's gettin on my nerves.

09-24-2009, 10:54 PM	#25 (permalink)
OV Kid Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Orangevale Posts: 11	tc- High Steer and Long Leafs isnt that big of a deal. I understand that it would be assine to do a SAS without it. However, doing the work myself will save hella money. I've priced everything on Marlin Crawler and to be SAS, 35's, bilstin shocks, high steer, Long Leafs, geared, locked would cost less than $3000. And there are three kinds of trucks in my opinion: Daily driver, Wheeler, and Daily Wheeler. I'm building a Daily Wheeler. So, as far as your comment "it's the driver and his desire to avoid body/glass damage." I see nothin wrong with a well equiped truck being clean. I want to built enough to go almost anywhere, but clean enough to attract almost any girl.haha If theirs 2 joys in my life, its wheelin and girls. If theirs 3 joys in my life it's Beer, wheelin, and girls.haha

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