duke4347

Hi, i am going to attempt to change the water pump myself on my T100. It squeeled a bunch of times when driving, then finally failed all together.
Can anyone point me to a thread or somewhere i could get info on the steps to change the water pump and any advice for doing it? Is it a hard job?

jammin962

try these. They should get ya close.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-183911/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...vations-32812/

DJ99

So from the links provided above, the water pump replacement is really a timing belt job. You might as well replace the belt and maybe even the idlers, thermostat and other stuff while you're in there.

When I did my timing belt, removing the radiator gave a lot more working room and peace of mind.

duke4347

Thanks for your reply. Looks very informative. I am attempting this project next week (gona start to locate the parts). Any suggestions on which brand of parts to use? I want to get the most durable parts possible so they last a while. Should i get the re-conditioned water pump from Toyota ($240 cdn.) or go with a new aftermarket one in the $100-130 range?
Does anyone know a good quality kit with everything included? (water pump, timing belt, pulleys, tensioner, etc)?

jammin962

DJ99 is right, replace as much as you can afford/or is needed while you're in there.

In most cases I would say go OEM for durability but that can get spendy. I haven't had any experience with different water pumps so I couldn't tell you which one to go with. I have seen kits that come with the Timing belt, Water pump, idlers, etc. but how much quality these parts have seemed questionable to me as they were really cheap ($) kits, and I didn't recognize the manufacturer.

I used rockauto.com for some of my parts on my current repair. So, just a heads up - if you do replace the idler/water outlet Autozone wanted $120 and I got mine from Rock auto for $35 w/lifetime warranty. There was also a $45 option and on up in $.

Good Luck!

rworegon

Here is a complete 3vze kit with Toyota parts from an eBay seller that many have purchased 5vz-fe kits from:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-...item1c1fed421a

DJ99

Wow! That's the kit you want if you want to do it once. The price looks good for OEM stuff too. That said, I did get other, lesser kits off ebay that include parts from Koyo & Aisin for instance costing less.

duke4347

That definitely looks like the kit to grab! I may not be able to afford that kit this time around but i'm gonna try!!!
Thanks again for your replies...u will definitely hear back from me once i get started!

duke4347

Hi. So i had some free time today and began the process (using the sites you recommended and the 1993 fsm online.
So far no big issues, going pretty smooth...i'm at the point where i'm told to loosen the hex bolt for the idler pulley (so far no success, im gona locate a 3/8 leverage bar to go with the hex socket i have tomorrow). Any advice on taking that one off? Cant get it to budge lol.
Also, i was wondering if it is really necessary to take off the Camshaft timing pulleys? And if so, why?
Also, when exactly shud i set the engine at TDC? After i install the new timing belt or b4?
Thx

jammin962

For stubborn bolts PB Blaster, leverage, and when safe to do so Heat are all your friends. Unless you are removing the camshafts and heads I don't think you need to remove your cam pulleys, I didn't. I would set cylinder 1 on TDCC before you remove the timing belt.

duke4347

Thx Jammin! Keepin me on the right track, much appreciated! Will post further as i go...

rworegon

duke, use the FSM:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/67timingbe.pdf
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/index.html

duke4347

Thx! But in the fsm it says to disconnect the camshaft timing pulleys, do i or dont i? And if so, why?
Also, i removed the fan bracket with tensioner attached, will this cause me problems further down? Should i put it back on b4 adjusting TDC?

rworegon

On the 5vz-fe, I can leave the cam pulleys on and still get the belt on. If you are not changing the cam seals, leave 'em on and see if you can get the belt on.

The first link in post 2 above shows the belt being put on without removing the cam pulleys.

TDC is getting the crank and cam set at the correct position, see page EM2-41 and EM2-43. The tensioner plays no role in setting crank and cam at TDC, but comes into play on page EM2-45.

duke4347

Thx 4 your input! :-)

duke4347

Ok, i have questions, if anyone can help...
1. I was messin around, trying to see if i would be able to loosen the crackshaft bolt and one of the camshaft timing pulleys moved outta place. So i used the belt to turn the one around again to line up, then put the crankshaft back to zero. Will i have any problems later on because one camshaft pulley went an additional turn? Or is it ok as long as everything lines up and the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug boot?
2. A wobbly extension to get those bolts off the #2 idler pulley? Looks like a tight spot...thats gonna be a challenge! Do i have to disconnect anything yo make it easier?

Well tomorrow i am off to the city to get the proper tool to hold pulley in place for the crankshaft bolt and a wobbky extension.

250000_yota

As long as everything is lined up, you will be all right. Personally, to get the crank pully broke loose, I use a chain wrench kinda like this one,

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-inch...nch-97073.html

wrapped around the pulley and braced to the frame, then use a big breaker bar and a cheater bar. Those mother's have to be tight tight, so you can use this method to tighten the pulley back up when your done. Just make sure you have the chain wrench good and tight against your crank pulley when you do it, other wise you can damage the grooves for your accessory pulleys, and subsequently, the belts.

duke4347

Thx 4 the input...
A friend of mine suggested to use an impact gun...to tighten it, then loosen it. What would be better, chain wrench or impact gun?
Question....i hear that you don't want to crank the engine counter-clockwise...what bad happens if it does spin the other way?

rustyf99

iTrader: (1)

Nothing bad happens because it's a non-interference engine, but it's not designed to rotate that way so don't do it. But if you just bump it back a little, like when you are leaning on the wrench, it's no big deal.

I used the chain wrench described above to get off my cam gears when I did my HG's. Here's some HUGE hints: Hit the crank bolt and cam gears with an impact wrench BEFORE you remove the timing belt (wish I'd have done that!!) it's easier to hold one gear/pulley tight and break the torque (and loctite) to loosen all 3. I also used a long flat 1/4" thick by 1" wide piece of iron to make a "wrench" to hold the bottom pulley - I drilled two holes lined up with the bolt holes on the pulley, threaded the bolts through, and it leveraged against the wheel well so I could run the impact and breaker bars without turning the motor.

The timing belt will be much easier if you remove one cam pulley, doesn't matter which one. They all have dots to mark TDC so if you line everything up when you put it back together you are OK.

There should be marks on the belt to line it all up too. After reassembly but before you put the timing cover back on, rotate the engine 2 rev's by hand and make sure the crank pulley and cam pulleys line back up to the timing marks. Just remember, the marks on the belt move different from the pulleys so after 1 or 2 revs they will not all line up again.

Good luck!

duke4347

Thanks Rusty! I feel better informed.
I already took off belt, now i know for next time...
I will post my results...