Big 3 wire upgrade and fusible link
#1
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Big 3 wire upgrade and fusible link
I have a new battery I need to get in my taco. The problem is that the posts are a little further away than the current wire to my fuse box will allow. So I need to run some new wire that's a little longer.
While surfing, I came across a ton of links about the "big 3" upgrade and now seems to be as good a time to do that as any. So I need to find a source for 4 ga bulk wire and connectors. I've read some places that welding cable is ok to use as well.
Another question I have is what kind of wire to use for the Battery + to fuse box. I've come across some info about fusible links that seems to indicate that there is special wire that's designed to melt under too much load. I haven't been able to find a source with this wire in any of the larger gage (currently have 10 ga). I have found bulk 'primary wire' that's 10ga and 1 place that has 12 ga "fusible link primary wire". But I can't find 10 ga. fusible link anywhere. I'm assuming that since I have 10 ga in place now, I should stick with it and not try using 12 ga.
Can anybody enlighten me?
While surfing, I came across a ton of links about the "big 3" upgrade and now seems to be as good a time to do that as any. So I need to find a source for 4 ga bulk wire and connectors. I've read some places that welding cable is ok to use as well.
Another question I have is what kind of wire to use for the Battery + to fuse box. I've come across some info about fusible links that seems to indicate that there is special wire that's designed to melt under too much load. I haven't been able to find a source with this wire in any of the larger gage (currently have 10 ga). I have found bulk 'primary wire' that's 10ga and 1 place that has 12 ga "fusible link primary wire". But I can't find 10 ga. fusible link anywhere. I'm assuming that since I have 10 ga in place now, I should stick with it and not try using 12 ga.
Can anybody enlighten me?
#2
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if you just need to add a few inchs go down to your local car audio place pick up a inline amp fuse and some 4ga wire cut then end off the stock terminal strip the wire place in the fuse holder then run a new wire at the other end to the battery
Last edited by Elton; 07-22-2008 at 05:51 PM.
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Thanks for the tip!
I just came across this post that has a possible solution as well:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131.../#post50854649
I should have searched a little more before posting.
I just came across this post that has a possible solution as well:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131.../#post50854649
I should have searched a little more before posting.
Last edited by mrdoug; 07-23-2008 at 06:17 AM. Reason: correcting link
#4
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I just used the fusible link that is already protecting the vehicles electronics. I ran 1/O welding cable. I didn't want anything smaller than my winch cables in the charging curcuit (the tech articles I saw used a two curcuit explanation for the vehicle electronics). I left the charging curcuit unprotected as the winch will draw more than any fuse I found.
Worth while upgrade IMHO. Good luck.
Worth while upgrade IMHO. Good luck.
#5
*bump*
I have a 97 3.4L auto 4x4 4runner I was looking around trying to find out where the stinking ground from my engine block to my frame was.
my plan go to welding supply store and buy 1/0 power wire.
go from + bat to alt
go from - bat to frame
go from engine block to frame (but I seem to find out where they put the ground)
from reading around it might be possible that I need to go from + bat to fuse box. can anyone confirm this??
-=jason=-
I have a 97 3.4L auto 4x4 4runner I was looking around trying to find out where the stinking ground from my engine block to my frame was.
my plan go to welding supply store and buy 1/0 power wire.
go from + bat to alt
go from - bat to frame
go from engine block to frame (but I seem to find out where they put the ground)
from reading around it might be possible that I need to go from + bat to fuse box. can anyone confirm this??
-=jason=-
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