Bob_98SR5

Birdman,

I'll be buying that too in about a month. If you don't mind, can you take some notes of your install? Document any and all of the 'quirky' things that the manual does not do a good job of explaining?

Bob

SLC Punk

Mark,
Do you know if that alarm has an option to keep it running 1-2 minutes after driving (AKA a turbo timer)? I am trying to find an alarm that has that option so I don't have to worry about the wiring between by tt and an alarm.

midiwall

Hmm... I don't think so, but the manuals are here:

http://www.commandocaralarms.com/ite...ProductID=1410
(scroll down a page or so and check in the left pane)

And looking through the install/programming manual...

It has a diesel start feature, and RPM learning...

Nope, it doesn't look like it Travis. But, there are a number of plug-in modules for the unit. You may want to drop Ryan an email and ask if Command has a system with turbo knowledge: ryan@slickcar.com

SLC Punk

Thanks Mark!

sick4runner

try here: http://www.stellaralarms.com/products.lasso

Never had a prbolem with mine and it is very easy to install and adjust without getting pissed off.

Birdman

Yeah, no problem. I'll be taking notes as well as pics, although I'm not sure I'll be posting the pics publicly. Commando provides a vehicle specific cheatsheet for the wiring colors, but I downloaded all the wiring diagrams for my vehicle from Toyota just in case.

Birdman

Ok, the alarm is finally complete. Thumbs-up for the FM-870 Commando Alarm! This thing has more features than you will ever know what to do with. And if you do, you won't be disappointed. Their technical support is absolutely fantastic! Thanks for your patience Ryan!

Before taking this on, I recommend familiarizing yourself with all the relevent circuits on your particular vehicle. I had to take some extra time as I have never done any work like this before, and reading the Toyota Wiring Diagrams and associated documents takes some getting used to. Get the complete Toyota wiring diagrams if you can. They can be downloaded from a site listed in the Maintainence section here on Yotatech. It isn't free but for $10 and some of your time and bandwidth, it's well worth it. I was able to use them to identify all the wires I needed to tie into, their routing, location, and the connector and pin number(where applicable) in advance. I matched these up to wire color cheatsheet provided by Commando and made a list of work to do.

If you're a perfectionist like me, be prepared for lots of wire routing, soldering, shrink wrapping, and tape work. I do not like unsightly wiring or rattles so I took my time. In the end, it's all worth the piece of mind.

The total install was done over a period of 3 days but also included the installation of a new head unit, some rewiring of the existing amplifier, and installation of a Cobra 25 WX ST CB and Firestick FS4 antenna using Fire-flex coaxial w/Fire-Ring connector. I still have to clean up the stereo wiring a bit, do some custom moulding work on the AC/Heater duct behind the CB to get it to fit with the 90deg angle fitting, and button up the center and right dash components.

I am very busy this week and the next so I am not sure when I'll be able to get a write-up done. However, I will try to post pics as soon as I get a moment.

Here's some details of the install:

Starter Disable - relay provided
Since I have a manual transmission, I modified the starter disable relay circuit to disable the ignition(coils) instead, since someone could simply bump start it anyway. They can bump all they want now but will never get a spark.

Door Triggers The 4 passenger compartment door triggers, as well as the rear hatch triggger are tied into the alarm via their dome light circuits. Doing both circuits required the use of a couple diodes to isolate them from each other.

Domelight Supervision - optional relay required
I also wired up a seperate courtesy light circuit which turns the front dome light on for 30sec when the alarm is disabled.

Door Locks - single relay provided
Tying into the factory unlock circuit requires a couple of diodes since you have to tie into both the unlock wire as well as the unlock detection wire. The locking circuit is a single wire. I tied both the unlock as well as the locking circuits into seperate relays so that added to the work. There was only one relay in the box so I went and bought another.

More later,

Adam

Bob_98SR5

adam,

great to hear you figured it all out! speaking of commando's tech support, are they open on saturday? that's when I'll be doing mine or starting friday afternoon.

bob

snj4runner

OK, I just put a Crimestopper CS-2011RS in my 98 4Runner. I took the "factory"???? system out, paid attention to what went where for tips. All in all, first time install, went well. I did notice that only the passenger doors trigger the alarm, not the rear hatch.

SO... Why can't we tap into the circuit for the dash light? Does not that come on with the hatch also? Then we would not need diodes and the activation and door triggers would not become a loop??? Or would this require more creative wiring to make happen.

I am wondering if the Toyota system was triggered this way, as there were a few wires tapped in the harnesses behind the kick panel that aren't used with the CS system...

Bob_98SR5

snj,

start a new thread with your question.

bob

Birdman

Open any door on my runner including the rear hatch and the alarm goes off. I recommend tapping into both dome light circuits to make things easier. The front dome light will trigger on any passenger compartment door, and the rear dome will trigger on the rear hatch.

On my 99', the front dome light neg wire is light-green/black, pin 9 of a 22 pin connector called IE2, attached to the back of the driver's side jumper block(fuse block).

The rear dome light negative wire is light-green/red, pin 2 of a 13 pin connector located behind the driver's side kick panel.

You can connect the trigger wire from the alarm to both, but you will have to isolate them with a couple of 4000 series diodes, preferable the IN40003 diodes which can be had a Radio Shack, 2 for 75 cents. The cathode(side with the stripe) of the diodes must face away from the alarm brain.

To get unlock to work on all doors, you must tie into the passenger side key cylinder since this is the master(opens all doors). You will also have to tie into the unlock warning switch and seperate the two with diodes as in the example above. The lock side of things is much simpler and does not require anything special. Its a single wire.

Good luck.

Birdman

Dunno. I would imagine not.

BIGMOOI

I run a CLifford RSX3.5 it is one of there best with responder technology. The distance is great. I love the alarm. I also work for Ultimate Electronics so i got it at cost. Just so you know the ones out there with a more popular name stake normally have a life time warranty on the brain and that is only true if you get it installed by a autherized dealer.


hope you find one that suits your needs and works great for you. I have had mine for 8 months now and i have not gotten a false alarm yet only when my friends want to get my attention.

I also think the best think is 2-way technology because in this day and age you can go out to a parking lot and hear 4 alarms go off at once and about 99% of the people out there dont even turn there head to see what is going on. I truely believe no one will protect your truck or car but you or your friends.
Sorry about the the length of the post.
Bigmooi