What is broken on YOUR Toyota
06-07-2022, 06:39 PM
#1301
Registered User
They sell The Right Stuff in giant caulking gun tubes now and it is fairly inexpensive in comparison to the Cheesewhiz style can, you'll need two tubes to seal up that little bit of cylinder block ventilation. You may want to push that rod back in though. 😲
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fasterspider (06-07-2022)
06-08-2022, 05:30 AM
#1303
Clutch problems 1986 pickup
I was recently given my dads old hilux from when he was on high school, it’s a 1986 and it starts right up even after sitting for almost 16 years, I’m trying to completely restore it but I don’t have the money to hire a guy to haul it out of my field and down to my garage so I’m trying to drive it down, it has brakes(barely) and it still runs on the gas that’s been in it since it’s been sitting, I’ve checked the slave and master cylinder and neither seem to have a leak, my father is certain that they do and I believe he’s right, but I don’t think that their getting any brake/hydronic fluid, I filled the reservoir for the brakes and they seemed to work fine but the clutch won’t engage and that reservoir is also filled,I think they aren’t getting any fluid and that’s why I can’t tell if there’s a leak, I don’t know if they need to be bless or if there is a clog or rusted line but I would love to hear what y’all have to say because neither of us know and we can’t move it without the clutch!
06-08-2022, 11:19 AM
#1304
Registered User
Crack open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. That will tell you instantly if 1) the hyd fluid is being moved by the master cylinder, 2) is it getting down to the slave cylinder (no clog in the line), 3) if there's air in the line.
The fluid in the reservoir, if it's 16 years old, is almost certainly full of moisture, which will make it nearly useless. You can gravity bleed it out, just open the bleeder valve, and take the cap off the master cylinder. Just make sure you keep the master cylinder, if not full of fluid, at least having fluid in it to prevent air getting into the master cylinder's piston. If that happens, you'll need to take it off and bench bleed it.
The clutch hydraulic system is very, very basic, and simple. A Master, a slave, and the lines in between. Not a lot to trouble shoot. If the master pushes fluid out the bleeder, that shows the master and lines are good. If you close the bleeder, and the slave's piston moves, the whole system is OK.
I would say chances are, you have air in the lines, and/or slave cylinder. Bleed the system out, and replace the fluid with new. If it doesn't work, there's only 3 items you need to check, or replace. Chances are, the lines are fine, as long as they don't have any crimps or breaks. Only leaves 2 things it could be, and the cost, and difficulty, of replacing them is very low.
If you replace the master, make sure you align the pedal correctly, or it can give you fits.
Good luck!
Pat☺
The fluid in the reservoir, if it's 16 years old, is almost certainly full of moisture, which will make it nearly useless. You can gravity bleed it out, just open the bleeder valve, and take the cap off the master cylinder. Just make sure you keep the master cylinder, if not full of fluid, at least having fluid in it to prevent air getting into the master cylinder's piston. If that happens, you'll need to take it off and bench bleed it.
The clutch hydraulic system is very, very basic, and simple. A Master, a slave, and the lines in between. Not a lot to trouble shoot. If the master pushes fluid out the bleeder, that shows the master and lines are good. If you close the bleeder, and the slave's piston moves, the whole system is OK.
I would say chances are, you have air in the lines, and/or slave cylinder. Bleed the system out, and replace the fluid with new. If it doesn't work, there's only 3 items you need to check, or replace. Chances are, the lines are fine, as long as they don't have any crimps or breaks. Only leaves 2 things it could be, and the cost, and difficulty, of replacing them is very low.
If you replace the master, make sure you align the pedal correctly, or it can give you fits.
Good luck!
Pat☺
08-24-2022, 05:40 PM
#1305
Registered User
Egg/warped flywheel bolt hole
My flywheel came loose and snapped all but one bolt (grabbing some ARPs soon) I had a few questions before throwing it all back together.
1) One of the holes looks egg shaped on the surface, is my flywheel toast or reusable?
2) What threadlocker should I use (used loctite red and torqued to 80lbs and they came out)
3) Does the flywheel, friction disc, pressure plate have a "break in period"
1) One of the holes looks egg shaped on the surface, is my flywheel toast or reusable?
2) What threadlocker should I use (used loctite red and torqued to 80lbs and they came out)
3) Does the flywheel, friction disc, pressure plate have a "break in period"
08-24-2022, 05:54 PM
#1306
Registered User
New flywheels are cheap. Replace it.
I'd be a lot more concerned for the condition of the crankshafts threaded holes and the truth of its mating face after such a failure.
Flywheel surface runout should be checked with a dial indicator after assembly.
I'd be a lot more concerned for the condition of the crankshafts threaded holes and the truth of its mating face after such a failure.
Flywheel surface runout should be checked with a dial indicator after assembly.
Last edited by millball; 08-24-2022 at 06:06 PM.
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Sho671 (09-02-2022)
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millball (09-02-2022)
09-04-2022, 04:15 PM
#1312
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