Re: 3.4L V6 Hard Start "hot" Cleaned IAC (Pics)

99runner4me · 08-11-2006, 02:26 PM

I was having a similar problem with my 99 as someone that posted this thread.

http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.p...r+idle+control

I went ahead and cleaned the Idle Air Control(AIC) as someone had suggested. It has been almost 2 months and I haven't had any issues with the "hot" starting since the cleaning.

The procedure is pretty much straight forward. You can use brake cleaner, carb spray, or mineral spirit to clean as well as a small parts brush and possibly a small flathead screwdriver to scrape off gunk in the hard to get area. I reused the rubber o-ring gasket and replaced the throttlebody gasket. I suggest replacing the rubber o-ring gasket moreso than the metal throttlebody gasket.

This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

creekfisher · 09-22-2006, 06:02 AM

Thanks for the pictures.

Can you please tell me why you used Kwick Seal? Were those two screws originally sealed? Did you remove those screws? If so, why?

Thanks.

99runner4me · 09-22-2006, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creekfisher

Thanks for the pictures.

Can you please tell me why you used Kwick Seal? Were those two screws originally sealed? Did you remove those screws? If so, why?

Thanks.

Yes, those screws were originally sealed. I went in there to clean the inside as well. It looked pretty clean when I dismantled it. You could leave it alone if you'd like. I went ahead and used Kwik Seal to make sure it's sealed again. I could've used clear RTV Silicone as well, but I couldn't find it in my tool box at the time.

Also, make sure you use a Phillips head screwdriver with a good tip. It's easy to strip the heads of the screws anywhere on the throttlebody when dismantling. As you can see in the photos, I was using an impact screwdriver.

Haven't hard a problem with the truck starting since the cleaning.

mkgarrison5 · 02-27-2007, 04:47 AM

couldnt you just spray carb/injector cleaner through the intake while the truck was running?? i have done that numerous times with jeeps and it helps a lot with idleing but i havent tried on the tacos yet.........

Chapman88SR5 · 03-30-2007, 04:55 PM

Do some vehicles not have an IAC? Awhile ago we asked autozone for one for a 1994 pickup 22RE and they said it doesn't have one?

**DeathCougar** · 04-20-2007, 08:32 PM

all EFI engines have an IAC valve, at least until '02. From then, im not 100% sure. But all 22RE's and 3VZ engines have an IAC.

pendrag · 03-18-2010, 04:57 PM

Just did this today (thanks for the write-up!) and thought I'd add my thoughts.

Ditto on using the impact driver on those 4 screws. They'd easily strip otherwise, but the impact driver did a great job.

Removing the two sealed screws from the solenoid will give you access to the magnet that actuates the valve, allowing you to open it and clean the IAC valve more thoroughly.

I ended up re-using both gaskets. I bought very cheap (~$1.50/ea) replacements from rockauto.com. The Fel-Pro replacement part numbers were 61087 (rubber one) and 61038 (metal one), both listed as throttle body gaskets for the 4runner 5VZ-FE V6 engine. The replacements, however, didn't seem to be quite the same shape as the originals, despite being labeled as OEM parts. They'd probably have worked, but both my originals seemed as good as new (the metal one needed a little scrubbing in TB cleaner), so I figured "Why mess with what works?" and left them alone. I'd just add that the Fel-Pro metal gasket seemed a little thicker and rougher in finish than the original gasket, but I don't think it would have affected performance.

As far as losing coolant when I removed the bottom two hoses on the throttle body...I just pulled them (they're a bit hard to access) and raised them up in the air, above the fluid level. I wrapped a little duct tape around them and taped them up in that position, but I didn't plug them or anything. I lost maybe a tablespoon or two of coolant, mostly from the IAC, but nothing worth mentioning.

09-22-2006, 06:02 AM	#2 (permalink)
creekfisher Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 35	Thanks for the pictures. Can you please tell me why you used Kwick Seal? Were those two screws originally sealed? Did you remove those screws? If so, why? Thanks. __________________ 1996 Limited 4runner; Completely stock except for Yakima roof rack.

03-30-2007, 04:55 PM	#5 (permalink)
Chapman88SR5 Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: wisconsin Posts: 1,455	Do some vehicles not have an IAC? Awhile ago we asked autozone for one for a 1994 pickup 22RE and they said it doesn't have one? __________________ *1988 4Runner* 3.Slow -33x12.5 Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ Radials -4Crawler 1.5" BJ Spacers -OME 2" Leaf Springs -Flowmaster 44 -Engine replaced at 200k -Green Rattle can paint The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese. Hmmm... See more in the** Check out my Truck section God works through Christians; I am a Christian. -George W. Bush

03-18-2010, 04:57 PM	#7 (permalink)
pendrag Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Georgia Posts: 164	Just did this today (thanks for the write-up!) and thought I'd add my thoughts. Ditto on using the impact driver on those 4 screws. They'd easily strip otherwise, but the impact driver did a great job. Removing the two sealed screws from the solenoid will give you access to the magnet that actuates the valve, allowing you to open it and clean the IAC valve more thoroughly. I ended up re-using both gaskets. I bought very cheap (~$1.50/ea) replacements from rockauto.com. The Fel-Pro replacement part numbers were 61087 (rubber one) and 61038 (metal one), both listed as throttle body gaskets for the 4runner 5VZ-FE V6 engine. The replacements, however, didn't seem to be quite the same shape as the originals, despite being labeled as OEM parts. They'd probably have worked, but both my originals seemed as good as new (the metal one needed a little scrubbing in TB cleaner), so I figured "Why mess with what works?" and left them alone. I'd just add that the Fel-Pro metal gasket seemed a little thicker and rougher in finish than the original gasket, but I don't think it would have affected performance. As far as losing coolant when I removed the bottom two hoses on the throttle body...I just pulled them (they're a bit hard to access) and raised them up in the air, above the fluid level. I wrapped a little duct tape around them and taped them up in that position, but I didn't plug them or anything. I lost maybe a tablespoon or two of coolant, mostly from the IAC, but nothing worth mentioning. __________________ 1999 Gen. 3 4Runner: 3RZ-FE 2.7 L: 160k miles (automatic; base 2WD) 1999 Gen. 3 4Runner: 5VZ-FE 3.4 L: 160k miles (automatic; SR5 4WD) "Why buy one when you can buy two for twice the price?" Last edited by pendrag; 03-29-2010 at 02:56 AM.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
'92 V6 hard to start when hot, lacking power?	Schump	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	5	05-27-2007 11:40 AM
Hard to start 3VZE v6, esp when hot	Schump	General Electrical & Lighting Related Topics	2	12-26-2006 01:23 PM
Hard start when engine warm/hot (long/detailed)	erkinne	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	20	07-28-2006 09:10 PM
99 3.4 hard to start hot	tx86runner	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	28	03-23-2006 09:58 AM
'99 4runner 3.4 hard to start when HOT	MLJBikes	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	14	01-21-2004 02:41 PM

02-27-2007, 04:47 AM	#4 (permalink)
mkgarrison5 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NC Posts: 1,514	couldnt you just spray carb/injector cleaner through the intake while the truck was running?? i have done that numerous times with jeeps and it helps a lot with idleing but i havent tried on the tacos yet.........