Axle wrap and wheel hop
#21
Contributing Member
Little correction - if you are welding to a heat treated piece, you are destroying the heat treatment PERIOD - no way around it.
Welding in short stitches and skipping around will help minimize distortion. I don't see any reason to weld something like this continuous - 1" stitches with 3 or 4" gaps will be PLENTY strong. If you rip off that much weld, you got WAAAY bigger problems to worry about.
Welding in short stitches and skipping around will help minimize distortion. I don't see any reason to weld something like this continuous - 1" stitches with 3 or 4" gaps will be PLENTY strong. If you rip off that much weld, you got WAAAY bigger problems to worry about.
#22
Contributing Member
Then he's destroying the heat treatment too ... the only real way is to weld it all up, THEN have it heat treated as one fabrication.
Most all tubing is sold annealed or normalized (basically stress relieved) - not heat treated for properties - so you're not losing much if anything.
Most all tubing is sold annealed or normalized (basically stress relieved) - not heat treated for properties - so you're not losing much if anything.
Last edited by tc; 02-07-2010 at 10:36 AM.
#23
Contributing Member
You're probably right TC, maybe Bud can stop by and explain his side. There has to be some distance at which point the heat of the welding is far enough away though, 1 inch, 6", 12", 24"...some point. But I'm no expert on heat treatments and it been over 15 years since my one semester of metallurgy. Basically I'd say stay as far away as possible from the threaded ends and keep the heat to a minimum, and remove the teflon filled heim joints completely. Personally I used a TIG welder for it.
#24
I know this thread is little old...sorry
Sooo would this traction bar help in desert racing at all? Like keeping the rear axle a lot more planted on the ground? Or do i just have no idea what the traction bar is made for besides preventing axle wrap.
Sooo would this traction bar help in desert racing at all? Like keeping the rear axle a lot more planted on the ground? Or do i just have no idea what the traction bar is made for besides preventing axle wrap.
#25
Registered User
i dont think it really adds "ground force" ( i made up that word), there isnt a spring or shock on it vertically, to keep the axle planted to the ground, its just there to hold the axle in its posistion, if that makes sense...sorry, lol, im not good at explaining things haha
#27
It's cool, i see what your saying. Yeah I was thinkin after this whole college thing is over, and my truck is still runnin good, I would go with trailing arms and coilovers. Then I saw this, and I was thinking cheap. Thanks for explainin it though.
#28
Contributing Member
#29
Registered User
#30
I think it would hella tight if I could put two of those traction bars on without hitting the gas tank. Then put coilovers on and get rid of the leaf springs. They look pretty beefy from the picture except for that it's only hanging on one bar going towards the front. Maybe if the front part came together like < and was attached to the frame at the end of that, I would consider it lol
#31
Registered User
sounds like you are getting really close to a dezert racing style rear 2 link. they put the coil spring up the lower link to get more travel out of less travel on the shock for less wear, heat and more compact shocks. it can be done but your frame connection would have to be different and i would want it to be a little beefier than that if i built one.
#32
Contributing Member
As stated, a race truck might have something like that, but I don't see any point in doing it to the above truck.
#33
Registered User
Why? The traction bar is only making sure the axle housing doesn't spin. Yes, it has to move up & down to account for the rear suspension but it's main job is to stop the rear axle from rotating. That's is. If your traction bar is doing more than that, you've got problems.
#34
Registered User
I think it would hella tight if I could put two of those traction bars on without hitting the gas tank. Then put coilovers on and get rid of the leaf springs. They look pretty beefy from the picture except for that it's only hanging on one bar going towards the front. Maybe if the front part came together like < and was attached to the frame at the end of that, I would consider it lol
#36
Registered User
i know its main job is just to prevent axlewrap, but if you did mount a coilover, it would help with rear end sag in heavy loads...kinda like a 2 for 1 deal...just throwin that out there...i was thinkin of ways to enhance the product ya know
#37
Contributing Member
I think with one coilover, the truck would tilt over to one side while sitting there.
Its honestly not that hard to get rid of sag. That is not a good way to do it.
Its honestly not that hard to get rid of sag. That is not a good way to do it.
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