are they the same?

how do you differentiate?

I will try to google them later

 

They are not the same.

Axle wrap can cause wheel hop. Lockers engaged on high traction surfaces can also cause wheel hop. Several other things can also cause wheel hop.

 

I would go a bit further than Axleike, in that wheel hop is almost always caused by axle wrap, however, you can wrap and NOT have wheel hop.

If you have leaf springs, you will always have to deal with these behaviors. The downside of using 100+ yr old technology.

 

I've seen linked trucks wheel hop when trying to climb. Its just not as common, and usually a result of poor AS numbers (over 100% if I'm understanding what I read correctly (btw, big IF there)).

Lockers will also wheel hop, especially on pavement.

 

I pretty much eliminated my wheel hop. But I admit I rarely use my lockers on pavement.

Budbuilt traction bar



I decided to use the weld-on bracket that Bud sells as an option. I also added some extra bracing at the top and bottom of the weld-on bracket:

 

Nice Dale! Thats the easiest way to eliminate wheel hop IMO. Simple and effective!

 

It also doubles as a slider to help protect the drive shaft, or thats my unproven theory anyway.

 

Nice traction bar! Do you have any pictures of how you attached the front part? Pics of the brackets would be nice if you've got them! I'll be making one very soon.

 

Trail gear also sell one, Im also gona have to make or purchase one pretty quick here.

http://www.trail-gear.ca/default.cfm...dCategoryID=65

 

I had a budbuilt on my old welded rear end before I put in my e-locker rear end..and I never got wheel hop.. and yes...it did make a great slider

 

Sure, Its a BudBuilt, he has some pics here: http://www.budbuilt.com/new/traction_bars.html

I did add some extra angle iron to the bottom just to reinforce and protect it some from rocks.

After my additions:

 

of course they do... everything they've got was designed by someone else, and cheapened by them...

 

does that extended piece of angle iron not hit your drive shaft when the rear end flexes? Buds stuff is pretty heavy duty out of the box..

 

The trac-bar follows the driveshaft pretty closely as it is mounted very close on both ends. It has to be, or it won't work.

Something else would have to break for that angle iron to hit the drive shaft.

 

The bar will also eliminate axle wrap, as it prevents your axle from torquing.

 

Nope, doesn't hit anything. That top point is just basically a pivot point (except it allows some movement for the axle forward and back as the leaf springs arch and flatten).

Yes, Buds stuff is good and strong, I was really trying to lower the bar more than anything, so that the bar would hit before the drive shaft, If you look close I actually used 2 pieces of angle iron welded together to get it a little lower. Plus if I scraped the hell out of it on rocks I could just replace the angle, kind of a sacrificial wear surface.

One word of warning if anyone copies this, weld no more than 1 inch at a time and let it cool down between welding. This minimizes warping and helps keep the heat treatment on Buds expensive high strength alloy parts. Now that I think about it, I also removed the hardware (teflon filled heim joints) on the ends to keep the heat off them.

 

Yep, that the main purpose for sure.

 

I see know. I had to loosen the nut up on the heim joint so I could get full flex with it. Before I did that it was snapping studs off my rear end..If i would have kept it i was going to do the weld on mount also. And it does offer a lot of drive shaft protection.. I also noticed when I took mine off I could feel the axle torquing like stated above. I still dont get axle wrap but you can feel the truck lift when you get on it..

 

Little correction - if you are welding to a heat treated piece, you are destroying the heat treatment PERIOD - no way around it.

Welding in short stitches and skipping around will help minimize distortion. I don't see any reason to weld something like this continuous - 1" stitches with 3 or 4" gaps will be PLENTY strong. If you rip off that much weld, you got WAAAY bigger problems to worry about.

 

Doesnt take away from the fact that they sell one. Some people dont have the money to buy all the top notch . I also didnt look at where the guy was from but up her in canada TG stuff is alot easier and cheaper to obtain then budbuilt or marlin. If your gonna post, make it productive.