gweelie

92 4runner v6 manual trans 4x4

My truck is in need of a valve adjustment pretty bad now, the knocking has gotten pretty bad and the valve cover gaskets are blown out, causing a pretty significant oil leak. I was quoted $1500 for the job at a couple of local shops and I really don't have that kind of disposable cash, so I have been considering doing it myself. I was just curious what people who have done the job thought about the process. I'm lead to believe its a p.i.t.a. I've done lots of work on my 22-r, but never a job of this caliber.

What tools would I need?

How long can I expect to spend on the project?

Thanks

tried4x2signN

I recommend having it done.

The 1st time I ever messed with pulling the cam journals from a V6, I had to learn how to Heli-coil...

gweelie

I know of two stripped out bolts on the valve cover, thus the bad gaskets, which I assume happened when the heads were replaced last year. So heli-coil's are in my future for sure, its the actual shimming and measuring process that concerns me.

Teuf

Swap in a 22re, then, DIY. Find a cheaper garage, and ask if you can observe.

tried4x2signN

In a 4runner? I prefer a 22RE, but not so much in a 4Runner... And especially in a 5 speed 4Runner.

It could be a V6 AT, but it's not.

To do the swap he's at least looking at a RTE bellhousing, a wiring harness and possibly moving the motor mounts...

In lieu of adjusting valves?

gweelie

Just recently now, after 20 - 30 min of driving, when I come to a complete stop and sit for a while ( usually 15 second or more, my oil pressure will drop and when I try to accelerate, the engine struggles as though I'm in the wrong gear, and as soon as I get rolling again its fine. Any ideas as what that may be.

I'm not burning any oil, no smoking out the tail pipe.

Zim

With the shim style adjustments on the 3.0L it is best to have it done. First off a good shop will know how to swap the shims around so your not buying a ton of shims that you'll never use. Also sounds like you are in really bad need of an adjustment. when the above symptoms occur, does the check engine light flash or come on?? Could be a knock sensor or the knock sensor wire. If yours was an automatic it would be easier to tell do to the fact that if it was throwing a knock sensor code, it wouldn't go into overdrive. Very different on a 5 speed. Those symptoms could also be ignition system such as plugs and wires or even cap and rotor. Hope that helps.

xxxtreme22r

$1500 ??????? sounds kinda high for valve adjustment. $250-300 sounds reasonable.

gweelie

No check engine light and the plugs, wires, cap and rotor have been replaced very recently.

The oil light will come on, oil levels are good though. I figured it was due to the drop in pressure, could a bad oil sending unit cause this.

I'm going to call a few more places today, but finding a shop willing to do the work is about as hard as finding one to do it for under $1500. Nobody likes working with those spacers.

boxcar81

do it yourself just read everything you have to know

xxxtreme22r

how much did the dealership quote you? or was that the $1500 you mention. I still think that cost is absolutely insane. for a few hundred more you can probably get a rebuilt Jasper motor. lol

Nogarage

$1500?? No thank you. I can find a decent truck for that. Or one and a half. You CAN do this yourself, there are no expensive tools. But you do need time, and you just gotta read up, decide you're gonna follow the instructions step by step. Yeah, it can be a PITA, but once you've learned it and done it once, you're way ahead in the game, and much more "in control" of the beast that bears your butt. Just don't assume anything, watch what you're doing carefully - "measure twice, cut once."

rattlewagon

Is there a good thread or site that says where to do this? When I search, all I find is 100 other thread and the only replies are to search. Cant seem to find the answer. Anyone got a clue?

xxxtreme22r

RE-RE the procedure to do the valve adjustment is in the FSM.

rattlewagon

YEah im having issues with that too. FML. My macbook dosent seem to want to open them. Need to get on a different computer I guess.

deejaysterling

sorry, but i still think 1500 bucks is too high for a valve adjustment, i don't care what kind of engine it is.

MudHippy

Oh for crying out loud people(with the exception of boxcar81, Nogarage, and xxxtreme22r), it's not that big of a PITA. Boo hoo, you need to remove the upper intake/plenum chamber. Just take pics of your vacuum lines and pull the stupid thing.

Other than that, replacing/adjusting the shims is pretty dad gum easy. Though you're supposed to use a couple of SSTs, you don't have to. Just measure the clearances, WRITE THEM DOWN! Remove the camshafts. ONE AT A TIME, remove, mike, and replace the shims. See the shim thickness chart to determine what shims are needed to correct the clearances.

Tools need: Metric sockets, a set of feeler gauges, a micrometer.

FSM pages needed: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/64tuneup.pdf

You can order replacement shims individually from Toyota, or in 4 packs from cylinderheadsupply.com. If you want to purchase the SSTs, they have those too. http://cylinderheadsupply.com/kl2901.html

RE-RE, if you can't get any of the FSMs to work on your computer you can buy a Chilton for ~$20. It will have all the same info. You might try your local public library first, they're usually well stocked with them. Just be sure that you get one that covers 89+. The 88 has the old specs, which are different than the current recommendations. The clearances were originally looser than they are now. I can prove that too.

Which brings me to my final point. I don't care how loose they are, you're not hearing the valves tick/knock. And when/if you tighten them, you'll notice no difference. Mine(88) were way loose according to current specs. And when I corrected them, it made no audible difference whatsoever. Couldn't hear them before, couldn't hear them after.

deejaysterling, wrong thread entirely. This is not a discussion about the 22RE. If your post was meant for RE-RE, see his sig, he's got a 3VZ-E too. You misunderstood what he was saying. BTW, adjusting the valves on a 22RE resembles adjusting the valves on a 3VZ-E in no way, shape, or form.

Lextech

Wow... You said the heads were replaced?? Who butchered that job? If you had your heads replaced by a qualified mechanic, you shouldn't have any valve problems, stripped bolts, or oil leaks on the top end. I'm thinking you are hearing something else... Was the bottom end washed out when or if the head gaskets blew, if in fact the heads were replaced?

justin_4runner

i would do it myself, i just did my heads and redid my valves too, it isn't that bad at removing the shims and putting in new, i had found a tune up procedure on the internet for the v6 and tells u how to do the adjustment, now for getting the shims u need i went to a machine shop and they traded some and bought some at 5 each, and the dealer wanted 11 each. so a little secret i found was if u where to remove the center hold downs for the cams u can work out the shims a little easier, other wise u have to push down on the holders and lift out the shims, try and use a magnet to lift the shim or a small screwdriver and get it between the shin and holder, then use an another screwdriver and hammer and lightly tap the shim out, then put in new one, if u don't have the new ones yet then when u turn the cam watch the lobes as they come out the valve holders or they will lock up and break the holder edge, u need to push them down a little as u spin the motor, wish u the best of luck and have fun....