SEAIRESCUE

The previous studs likely deformed the holes. Find a drill bit that will lightly remove material from the holes to make them round again. Find a really large drill bit to break the edge where the stud will be inserted. Get a big bottle of antisieze and lube everything. That, with washers on the stud, will pull it into place. Those studs do not need to be so tightly captured since its for retainment only. Think about it and you will understand. Cleaning up those stud holes, prior to pressing them in, is the key to your success in not breaking any more parts. 10-4?

Now get your ride fixed.

fishon1213

After cleaning out the holes and touching the studs on a grinder a bit they installed just fine. I really think the tolerances on these doorman studs are way to loose, but I cant afford the ones from a stealership. Thanx everyone. This thread is offically done.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

To separate the wheel hub from the rotor on a SFA is (6) wheel studs and (2) bolts. Remove the two bolts and use a brass punch and a hammer and knock out the wheel studs and replace the rotor. You can use the same brass punch to hammer in the wheel studs. Just make sure you do it on a secure surface and use something like 2x4s under the rotor to absorb the impact. Rotors will crack but with the proper OEM wheel studs you don't need much force to seat them properly.

IMO the aftermarket wheel studs have tolerances that are too sloppy (see my thread below) as they do not fit properly and if you pound or press some of them in they do crack the rotors. The OEM ones are about $5 each but how often do your replace wheel studs? My OEM replacements tapped right in whereas the aftermarket ones wouldn't even hardly fit the rotor hole.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...s-wrong-95489/

1986_4runner

I came across this thread while searching for some help to separate the rotor from the hub on my 1985 4runner.. To make things clear, I have removed the manual hub cover and body (by removing those tapered/conical washers). The manual says I have to use a punch and a hammer and beat the studs to take the hub out. I tried without luck, and want to understand if I am doing this right.

There are 6 long studs and 2 small studs (which don't protrude out much). Do I have to beat these 2 small studs? or all the studs. Someone said here the studs screw into the hubs? If that is true then I guess I am doing wrong by beating them. But I dont see any way I can access the back to take the studs out.

And honestly, I really can't believe that the rotor and the hub are separate things. They look like one piece! even after scratching the edge with a screw driver I dont see any separation. Is it possible it is one piece? If not then it is just really badly rusted. Any advice would be really helpful. I have been trying to remove this rotor since last 2 days!

THanks

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

An 85 4Runner has a solid front axle and the rotor is held to the wheel hub with (2) BOLTS and (6) studs. The bolt heads are accessible from the outside and the studs can be beat out of the wheel hub from the backside once you pull the wheel hub off. Yes, the wheel hub and rotor are separate pieces, yours have just probably been molded together over the past 20 years if they've never been changed.

Pull the whole wheel hub w/ rotor attached.
Remove (2) bolts.
Remove (6) studs.
R/R rotor.
Reverse order for reinstall.

While you have things apart now would be a good time to clean up the wheel hub assembly and possibly paint.

You can find a schematic of the wheel hub break down online in numerous places via

1986_4runner

Thanks waskillywabbit,

Thank goodness I doubted the manual's instructions and did not break the studs!. I tried pulling the assembly with my hands but in vain. Do you think a 3-jay puller or something would help? Any other ideas? I will have to wait till tomorrow so that I can buy the tool.

Thanks

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Autozone has free repair schematics on their website. Try this link:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

Brake blow up diagram towards the bottom. You can open the picture or print it out. That should help as well as the details on the various pages.

1986_4runner

Do I have to remove the large nuts (I think they are 54 mm) in order to remove the rotor-hub assembly? Also, if yes, where can I buy or rent such a large socket?

thanks

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Yes.

54mm or 2 1/8" socket for the front axle

You should really look at the schematic for the front axle as it would answer all of your questions.

1986_4runner

Thanks, now it makes sense. I was able to remove the hub-rotor assembly easily after taking the 2 54 mm nuts out, but it was difficult to separate the hub from the rotor because they were molded together from rusting for so long. Anyway, now I am trying to put the things together and have a question regarding torque for the two nuts.

Can someone write the steps for putting the 54 mm nuts with proper torque specs? The manual says I have to torque it to 43 ft lb, then loosen it. I noticed that if the first nut is tightened too much the disc doesn't rotate very freely. How much loose? Are they talking about the first nut? I am not clear on this.

Thanks!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I describe how I adjust the bearing nuts on the web page below:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Rebuild