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Old 03-20-2009, 09:22 PM   #76 (permalink)
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i just bought a 96 four runner limited everything seems great mechanically but the rear bumper is rusted as well as a large rust hole in bottom left of the liftgate now this is my absolute first four wheel drive so any ideas were i can find parts or should i just use body fill
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Old 03-22-2009, 11:54 AM   #77 (permalink)
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bilstein 5100's

new kid on the block.... Just picked up a 99 4runner ,wanted to know if the Bilsteins 5100 will work up front on my 99 4runner if so what part # for the fronts. thanks
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Old 04-05-2009, 09:07 AM   #78 (permalink)
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really cool thread. I just traded my K5 blazer for a 86 toyota truck. last night!! so now I need to learn as much as I can to wheel this yota. Ok its already lifted. looks like 6 inches with a very stiff procomp lift. It has 35 12.50 15 mud tires. So it looks like my first mistake is already made for me but not at my cost. SO iM THINKING GEARS IT has the stock 410s I was told. All so thinking solid axle swap but im sure I will wheel it as is for a bit. But if I find a soild axle with lower gears would be a good start I LIKE TO TRADE so ya never know what i will come up with lol. . lockers well the blazer had a lincoln locker in the rear and open in the front and did better than expected at disney ok . may do that to the yota but a air locker in front . keep in mind as you make comments MONEY is a object so taking it apart to start over is not in my future .just looking for low buck upgrades and another trip to Disney is in the near future.
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:31 PM   #79 (permalink)
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hey tc you say that you are running 33's on your 4runner correct? i have a 94 pickup runnung 31's and am on the verge of experiencing tire rub. what are the necessary modifications to run the 33's? im not interested in lifts or fiberglass. iwhat is the way?
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Old 04-07-2009, 03:55 AM   #80 (permalink)
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damn i would been tin bricks in that trench.
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Old 04-07-2009, 05:58 PM   #81 (permalink)
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hey tc you say that you are running 33's on your 4runner correct? i have a 94 pickup runnung 31's and am on the verge of experiencing tire rub. what are the necessary modifications to run the 33's? im not interested in lifts or fiberglass. iwhat is the way?
The "secret" is to use the stock rims (or stock backspacing anyways).
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Old 04-11-2009, 06:52 PM   #82 (permalink)
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so instead of starting new threads to get answers to my questions ill just ask them here. i am considering putting low profile bump-stops up front on my ifs 94 pickup and disconnecting the sway bars. i read the write up here on yotatech but couldnt find much info teh performance afterwards. how much more articulation will this give to me up front? are there any other modifications that can be done to increase the articulation of the stock suspension?
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Old 04-11-2009, 07:57 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Yes, you'll get a little more travel, assuming the torsion bars and shocks allow for the extra travel. You could just try it and see for yourself. You can also just cut down the stock bump stops a little at a time.

Adding ball joint spacers and backing off the torsion bars all the way is a good way to add more travel:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ml#Description

Still keeps the suspension close to stock.
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Old 04-18-2009, 07:27 PM   #84 (permalink)
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all of this is very true im running two inch coil spacers to eliminat rear spring sag on my 1991 4runner and i fit 33 12.50 with little rub i have 4.56 gears and no lockers and it does almost everything that my buddys wrangler on 35s with a rear locker does!
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:33 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Questions????

Hey Yall, I have an 87 yota pickup ext cab 4x4
and i was thinking about doing a 4" lift but thanks to all your aswome posts
i now want to put some lockers in instead..but do you have to upgrade anything else or can you just put the lockers in???
my truck is all stock except for rancho shocks and 30" bf goodrich mud terrain tires.. i drive it everyday to and from class
any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks, Jimmy
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:38 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Enjoyed your video!!! I am interested in modifying a stock 2001 4-runner sr5 4x4 for elk hunting the Colorado Mountains in the Sept. Oct. time frame. I frequently need chains on my chevy truck due to snow/mud. It doesn't look as if chains will clear the space between the tire and the suspension parts on the 4 runner. Any Ideas or experience in this department. I have also considered a front bumper mounted winch that could be switched in the field to the rear receiver. Most of the driving is performed on washed out logging roads with the occasional tree or boulder to navigate around. Any information on modification for these conditions would be appreciated. Thanks RD
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:38 AM   #87 (permalink)
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good info....thanx.
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Old 06-23-2009, 04:17 PM   #88 (permalink)
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so ive got this 94 toyota pickup right... and i was thinking i would very much like to have a sfa. naturally i would like to put in a toyota axle, but what if i cant? what axle will fit under my 94 ifs pickup? or could i make just about anything fit under there? what should i look for when buying a front axle? help me out thanks
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Old 06-24-2009, 08:30 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Enjoyed your video!!! I am interested in modifying a stock 2001 4-runner sr5 4x4 for elk hunting the Colorado Mountains in the Sept. Oct. time frame. I frequently need chains on my chevy truck due to snow/mud. It doesn't look as if chains will clear the space between the tire and the suspension parts on the 4 runner. Any Ideas or experience in this department. I have also considered a front bumper mounted winch that could be switched in the field to the rear receiver. Most of the driving is performed on washed out logging roads with the occasional tree or boulder to navigate around. Any information on modification for these conditions would be appreciated. Thanks RD
I'm not sure about 3rd gen 4runners. Sorry. I fit chains on my 33's just fine, but thats on a first gen.

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so ive got this 94 toyota pickup right... and i was thinking i would very much like to have a sfa. naturally i would like to put in a toyota axle, but what if i cant? what axle will fit under my 94 ifs pickup? or could i make just about anything fit under there? what should i look for when buying a front axle? help me out thanks
The toyota axle is the easiest. You can put whatever you want under there. You are going to cut everything off and start with a clean frame, so let your imagination work. Guys run Toy axles, Diamond axles, unimog axles, rockwells, dana axles, all under toyotas.

Leaf springs are easy, links with coils/coilovers are more adjustable, but harder to get correct. If you are serious about this, you need to go to Pirate4x4.com. You will be able to find all the answers you need and then some over there in the Toyota section.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:21 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Need info on lockers. I got a 07 tacoma. Used for Mud, Rock, and Deep water. Air lockers seem good but unsure and I don't want e-lockers to short out ether.
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:34 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Need info on lockers. I got a 07 tacoma. Used for Mud, Rock, and Deep water. Air lockers seem good but unsure and I don't want e-lockers to short out ether.
use a locker with a cable they make 'em unsure of the brand i believe it is detriot. and e-lockers will be fine as long as you don't have a wire exposed some where for it to short out, the only "locker" that is 100% reliable (and not even then) is a welded spider gear diff, but i would strongly not recommend that for your set-up, dedicated trail rig only set-up......


i have a question why are there 15 people asking about lockers on here but not one even asked how or when to use one, i'd love to see some one hit the rr diff lock button doing 70 on a semi snowy freeway......
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:45 PM   #92 (permalink)
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ok, im convinced, no lift. but is one set of lockers better than others. i called 4wheel parts and asked prices without installation, limited slip in front and i dont know what in back, $837. kinda expected them to cost more. did i get the price on a cheap set up. is the tru trac worth it? i have a '90 pick up ext cab. not sure if that helps or not. i also need some info on replacing my engine, have 4cyl, want V6 but i dont know if i can in Ca. with all the stupid smog laws?
yeah sounds like a cheaper set up to me, as a single arb air locker in the rear will run you that alone, sounds like maybe just 2 lsd's which are semi-worthless in my opinion.
they work like lockers but with clutches, which means they can wear out quickly from improper driving styles and well they just plain wear out. also as not being truly locked together, this means you will still get some wheel slippage, it may not be noticeable but it's there and gets worse as the discs wear as with a true mech locker you have these two big massive gears that are pushed together via compressed air, electricity or a cable pull and won't fail or allow wheel slippage.
read this for what a locker is
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_differential
and read this as well good info for wrapping your head around things
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-wheel_drive
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Just like Christ, you are crusified by the others who think they are with out sin!! TJ
I too will be baned for speaking of such things.
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:48 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Boxer54 View Post
Hey Yall, I have an 87 yota pickup ext cab 4x4
and i was thinking about doing a 4" lift but thanks to all your aswome posts
i now want to put some lockers in instead..but do you have to upgrade anything else or can you just put the lockers in???
my truck is all stock except for rancho shocks and 30" bf goodrich mud terrain tires.. i drive it everyday to and from class
any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks, Jimmy

no mods are REQUIRED to add a locker only suggested, if your doing a locker you should do gears at the same time to save on labor costs as well as having the correct locker for the gears/3rd member if you go crazy. if your planning on a 4' inch lift you must be running some meats do gears when you do the locker for a cash savings, i believe this may have been answered before in this thread

(yeah bored and just sorting out some old newbie questions)

-on
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Just like Christ, you are crusified by the others who think they are with out sin!! TJ
I too will be baned for speaking of such things.
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Old 08-17-2009, 04:06 PM   #94 (permalink)
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yeah sounds like a cheaper set up to me, as a single arb air locker in the rear will run you that alone, sounds like maybe just 2 lsd's which are semi-worthless in my opinion.
they work like lockers but with clutches, which means they can wear out quickly from improper driving styles and well they just plain wear out. also as not being truly locked together, this means you will still get some wheel slippage, it may not be noticeable but it's there and gets worse as the discs wear as with a true mech locker you have these two big massive gears that are pushed together via compressed air, electricity or a cable pull and won't fail or allow wheel slippage.
read this for what a locker is
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_differential
and read this as well good info for wrapping your head around things
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-wheel_drive
My personal experience has been that LSDs do not work at all like lockers. I was extremely dissatisfied with mine offroad, though the on road manners were great. Essentially I noticed zero difference between open and the LSD.

I don't recommend LSD's for anyone that is considering more than just mild trail riding.
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Old 08-17-2009, 04:12 PM   #95 (permalink)
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i have a question why are there 15 people asking about lockers on here but not one even asked how or when to use one, i'd love to see some one hit the rr diff lock button doing 70 on a semi snowy freeway......
So, I get the feeling you're saying they're stupid, when you post this...

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use a locker with a cable they make 'em unsure of the brand i believe it is detriot. and e-lockers will be fine as long as you don't have a wire exposed some where for it to short out, the only "locker" that is 100% reliable (and not even then) is a welded spider gear diff, but i would strongly not recommend that for your set-up, dedicated trail rig only set-up......
The brand you are thinking of is OX locker. Unfortunately, they don't have any applications for Toyota minitrucks, as they require a diff cover.

Downey (RIP) had a cable actuator for the Toyota elocker.

Any properly installed and maintained locker will be as "reliable" as anything else used 'wheeling.

Lastly, x2 for AxleIke's opinion of LSD's used offroad in "more than moderate" 'wheeling. Molly's rig has a Trutrac in the front and it NEVER gets praised for helping you out, and FREQUENTLY gets cursed for not working like you wish it would.
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Stop with the mods and get on the trail!

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Old 08-17-2009, 08:58 PM   #96 (permalink)
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the only "locker" that is 100% reliable (and not even then) is a welded spider gear diff,
Welded spider gears have a lot to fail. Usually when they go, it's pretty catastrophic. Properly welded, they can hold up quite well, but often, they are not.

A spool is much more reliable, and quite a bit stronger.

Again, probably best in a trail only vehicle.
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:43 AM   #97 (permalink)
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So, I get the feeling you're saying they're stupid, when you post this...



The brand you are thinking of is OX locker. Unfortunately, they don't have any applications for Toyota minitrucks, as they require a diff cover.

Downey (RIP) had a cable actuator for the Toyota elocker.

Any properly installed and maintained locker will be as "reliable" as anything else used 'wheeling.

Lastly, x2 for AxleIke's opinion of LSD's used offroad in "more than moderate" 'wheeling. Molly's rig has a Trutrac in the front and it NEVER gets praised for helping you out, and FREQUENTLY gets cursed for not working like you wish it would.

lol, yeah a bit, it's been a few years since i was into all of this and some information as escaped me, but that's my point you have all of these people asking about lockers and they really don't even know what they are, they just see people in the know like you guys saying you "lock it buddy!" (and i completely agree with you) but wouldn't you want to know exactly what a locker does or how it works first before you dump 1K or more in to fitting one up?

and yeah i know what you guys are saying about the lsd's personally they are the non-option option, meaning they are completely useless imo, but i have heard others try and debate me on that one, so i was just covering my ass in short. i had a lsd in my 5.9L jeep with the dana44a and since the only locker for that axle is hard to find and pricey when you do. so i went with a lsd which lasted about a month if that(to be honest i could never tell when it did work)

as far as a spool being more durable than a weld job? possibly but i doubt it, if you do a good job welding you essentially eliminate the front diff all together for a "more true" solid axle. but then again i could be wrong like i said it's been a few years or more and i know jack about toyota's as of now and really just an intermediate knowledge of 4x4 systems. working on it but still no freaking guru, it's why i'm making my debut here in the newbie section lol!
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Old 08-18-2009, 11:16 AM   #98 (permalink)
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A spool is simply a fully machined piece of metal that has a surface for mounting the ring gear and splined tubes for the axles. They are stronger than a welded diff because the welded diff is only as strong as the carrier.

Spool:

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Old 08-18-2009, 11:34 AM   #99 (permalink)
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A spool is simply a fully machined piece of metal that has a surface for mounting the ring gear and splined tubes for the axles. They are stronger than a welded diff because the welded diff is only as strong as the carrier.

Spool:

aaahhh there we go, thanks for that! i did a catia model of one of these a few years ago, i thought they were mainly used for tractor pulls and such and welded/spools are far above my level of wheeling, i've always just been happy with lockers! lol

thanks for setting me straight axleike!
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I too will be baned for speaking of such things.
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:48 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Eh no worries.

Spools and welded aren't actually that common. Most rigs prefer something that gives them some ability to turn at least. Most of the rock buggies and racers I've seen run a detroit in the rear, as they are darn near bullet proof. Some will run the spools/welded, but most prefer at least some differentiation. Lots run ARB's as well.

ARB's are some of the strongest carriers out there, far better than stock. Only issue is that air lines can get leaks, and while that is an easy fix for a truck on a trail, its not the sort you want to try to do during a race. My ARB's are a HUGE improvement strength wise over stock, and I've yet to have an air leak in 3 years. I'm upgrading to stainless lines here shortly as well, which will virtually insure no leaks.
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