Daveoneshot

....I need to know if any special tools are required to remove and install
the center bearing on my T-100...this part has over 200 K on it, and it
seems a bit loose when grabbing the driveshaft , pushing up and pulling
down.....plus, what do you think about aftermarket parts for this job, or
should I stay with Toyota parts ??

tried4x2signN

All your answers should be in a Chilton's or Factor Service Manual..

And there's tons of info here: http://www.google.com/


Not being a smartass, just trying to teach you how to fish...


Like this: http://www.google.com/#hl=en&expIds=...32b8af52b7e0b8

sb5walker

I installed a Beck/Arnley in my 89 V6 truck several years ago and it has been fine. Rockauto.com sells Timken & National, both of which are good. autohausaz.com sells Tezuka, which I think is a Japanese brand, possibly the OEM part.

BE SURE! you put match marks on both sides of EVERY joint in the driveshaft that you disconnect. Driveshafts are balanced as complete units and you must reassemble with the same alignments.

Follow fsm procedure for torquing the bearing into place. IIRC it involves torquing to something like (don't quote me - check it out) 150 ft lbs to seat the bearing, then backing the nut off, then torquing to a lesser amount.

You'll need a way to hold the driveshaft in place while you torque the nut to that sick amount. I used a strap wrench I made from an old timing belt and it worked great:
https://www.yotatech.com/51094700-post10.html

JoeS

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10 years and 85K miles ago, I replaced the driveshaft carrier bearing (Beck/Arnley PN#1014084) om my 86 2WD 5-speed. It cost back then $120 Advanced Auto. I see it is now $41 on Rock Auto. B&A has been good parts when I can't get Denso or Bosch. Moog has gone down hill.


I pressed it on myself. NO issues to date and rubber seals still look like new. Easy to do if you have a press, but not wanting to redo it in a few years. I bought a Harbor Freight 12 ton press online that was on sale and had a 20% discount coupon. Shipped from WA to SE VA it was $98. I had that on had when I did the carrier bearing. Have used it many times since them . A worth while tool to have and not expensive.

2ToyGuy

I did mine, on my 87, 2WD, 5 SPD, about 4 or 5 years ago. It was quick and simple. I took it off, and took it into my mechanic to press the new one on. I had to correct him on which way was forward, and yes, it matters. Once we got over that little hump, it took him about 10 minutes to actually do the work. Took me about 1/2 hour to remove the driveshaft, and put it back in again. So 1 hour total.
No special tools. Basic, shade tree mechanic stuff. Almost entirely done with my 3/8 drive ratchet, with a 3 extension set, and a set of regular sockets. Used my regular combination wrenches on the driveshaft bolts. All stuff I've had the last 30+ years, still going strong. Of course, I think I'm on the 10th or 11th 10mm socket, but you know how they are
About a year later I bought a set of ratcheting combination wrenches. I really wish I'd had them when I did the carrier bearing.
The truck had 325,000 miles on it when I did the carrier, most of which was put on when it was my DD, 1 hr each way, in the Yuma heat and dust. It was definitely necessary, but if it could stand up to that environment, for that long, it will last the rest of my life, I'm sure. I used a Beck-Arnley as JoeS did, but I got the $41.00 version from Rock Auto.

Have fun!
​​​​​​​Pat☺

JoeS

In had 404,000 on my original ones. Pretty much gone. Ratcheting flex head box wrenches are great. Worth every penny.

CFA3

I had 370,000 on my Original factory CSB, as well.

mydavestrong

BE SURE! you put match marks on both sides of EVERY joint in the driveshaft that you disconnect. Driveshafts are balanced as complete units and you must reassemble with the same alignments.