Duck_1620

Merry Christmas eve, Eve all.

What I did:
New timing kit, cap and rotor, plugs, wires, ignition coil, fuel filter, fuel lines,
What happens: Turns over, gets spark, gets fuel, cranks strong, just won't start.
Couple of troubleshooting things I did today:
tried to advance and retard distributor, removed tension from belts, checked all fuses under hood, tried to start with that clutch disengage switch.

Any thoughts on what I am missing?

Thanks much.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

your distributor is likely off by 180`.

I have even had it happen to me. Your #1 cylinder needs to be at top dead center on the compression stroke, and the rotor in the distributor needs to be pointed at #1 on the cap.

Clutch disengage has nothing to do with starting. Heck, the truck will start in gear if you give it the chance! If the truck is in time with the distrubutor clocked right, it will start no matter how far you advance or retard the timing (assuming you have the bolt in). Same thing with the belts. the engine is obviously designed to run the accessories, so removing the belts wont do anything.

Duck_1620

I tried to reset this once, and I pointed the rotor directly at #1 on the cap. Could/would I have this problem if I was 180 out and on the exhaust storke?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

thats what I was talking about being 180 out. Try putting the mark on 0, and check where the rotor is. If its on #1, then rotate the engine again until it makes it around to 0 again. The distributor will then be pointing to #3 or so. At that point, take the distributor out, and reset it to #1. (Essentially you are moving back 180*) Be 100% sure the teeth of the distributor gear are meshing correctly. Its kinda tough to get it in there while keeping it set at #1, since you have to actually put it in a little off as the gear will make the shaft rotate as you slip it in.

Sorta hard to describe, but I think you get the jist.

Duck_1620

I understand. I will give it another shot.
Many thanks.

Duck_1620

I put the mark at 0, rotor was at #1.
I rotated until at 0 again, rotor was then at #3, just like it was described.
I then took distributor out and reset to #1.
I tried starting it, and it did not start.
It cranked and cranked, but did not start. It sounds like it wants to, but wont.
I then came in and warmed up, its 33 out and with windchill is about 12.

If additional info will help, I have also done/seen the following:
I checked to be sure I was getting fuel at the cold start and I am.
I sprayed a little starting fluid and it burns that off.

The little black plastic plug (VSV for PAIR valve) spit out a puff of smoke/air when trying to start prior to the above being performed.

any more thoughts?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

so spraying starting fluid it will try to start?

Duck_1620

What I sprayed in burned in the intake chamber and shot a flame out of the throttle body. it was a quick burst as one might guess( I was cranking as my buddy was holding the throttle plate open after spraying)

It did not start by doing this, nor did it try to start, it just burned off and then went back to cranking.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

ok, so you know its not fuel related. And its not spark related.

An engine needs only 3 major things to run: Air, Fuel, Spark. Since you are obviously getting all 3, you look to the next step. Timing.

Since it doesn't appear that your distributor is the problem, i would look to the timing set you just installed. With the timing mark on the crank pointing to zero, the mark on the cam sprocket should be pointing straight up. (or just slightly to the pass side, ever so slightly)