92 Transmission swap Auto to 5 speed
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92 Transmission swap Auto to 5 speed
Hey does anyone here know what needs to be changed out on the a 92 4 runner 4x4 for sensors, brain box, transfercase, or wiring?? I have an Automatic right now and I sure do miss my 5 speed. Plus the automatic trans is jacked up. So I am contemplating on removing the the auto and putting in a 5 speed. The auto trans wont last much longer. I know I have to: replace the peddles, flywheel, install a hydrolic clutch. Has anyone ever swapped out transmission like this before. Is there a place to go to view the details involved. Thanks
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Moved to Newbie Tech Section.
Do a quick search using keywords for what you're wanting.
Example, "92 auto 5sp swap"
Play around with that for awhile and post up what you find, if you have trouble we'll see if we can help direct you - that's what this section is all about.
Fink
Do a quick search using keywords for what you're wanting.
Example, "92 auto 5sp swap"
Play around with that for awhile and post up what you find, if you have trouble we'll see if we can help direct you - that's what this section is all about.
Fink
#6
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#7
This swap is not that hard. I did it and I have never attempted anything like it.
As for searching, i did not learn much from the like 3 threads that i found on here.
Basically you need all of the parts that would be on the other truck.
Pedal assmebly, master and slave cylinder, hard lines, 5speed w tcase, drive shafts, new clutch, pressure plate, resurfaced flywheel, crossmember.
The crossmember was the exact same on mine.
If you have replaced a clutch I cannot see why you couldnt do this. the other parts arent hard.
As for the wiring, you need to connect two wires that trick the ecu into thinking it is in park in an auto. I have the pictures of the wires that worked on my 88.
Make sure you have a FSM and someone to help you when you do it as well
As for searching, i did not learn much from the like 3 threads that i found on here.
Basically you need all of the parts that would be on the other truck.
Pedal assmebly, master and slave cylinder, hard lines, 5speed w tcase, drive shafts, new clutch, pressure plate, resurfaced flywheel, crossmember.
The crossmember was the exact same on mine.
If you have replaced a clutch I cannot see why you couldnt do this. the other parts arent hard.
As for the wiring, you need to connect two wires that trick the ecu into thinking it is in park in an auto. I have the pictures of the wires that worked on my 88.
Make sure you have a FSM and someone to help you when you do it as well
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Wow guys thats for the info. I'm looking for parts right now. But still unsure about the brian box. Because its fuel injected. yeah I have done my fair share of clutches. Just never attempted to swap out tranmissions. What is FSM???? You all are sure I'll be fine with the brain box from the auto or should I swap that too. Thanks again.
Gary
Gary
#9
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Here is a link to get you started on the FSM. When you get going on this do a detailed writeup on this. The more info the better...I plan on doing this within the next year or two.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/
#10
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Wow guys thats for the info. I'm looking for parts right now. But still unsure about the brian box. Because its fuel injected. yeah I have done my fair share of clutches. Just never attempted to swap out tranmissions. What is FSM???? You all are sure I'll be fine with the brain box from the auto or should I swap that too. Thanks again.
Gary
Gary
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More info on Auto to Manual trans swap!
I may be new here, but I have completed a full auto to manual trans swap. Some information that I have seen here I DID NOT encounter, such as changing the ECU, cross member, starter, or drive shaft.
I have a 1990 4Runner. I here is what I purchased:
Used:
1993 Pickup (Hilux) Trans and Transfer Case
1993 Pedal Cluster with all switches attached
1993 Gear Levers
New:
Master and Slave Cylinder
1 Long / 1 Short hard line for clutch fluid
1 Soft line
8 Bolts for the Flywheel
Flywheel
Full Clutch Assembly
Trans Mount
Shifter Console and boots
Process: We removed drive shaft, cooling lines to radiator, trans throttle cable and cross member, then the trans/transfer case, torque converter and plate that looks like a flywheel, plus shifters and interior shifter trim. The exhaust may in the way, but I have Downey headers that detach at the beginning and end of the Y-Pipe, which gets out of the way of the trans. The inlet and outlet of trans cooler in radiator was plugged. Bracket at throttle body was removed. All electronic wiring was retained.
Flywheel was bolted up with clutch and trans/transfer case were installed with new mount on cross member. There is a difference between the auto and manual trans mount. Drive shaft bolted right up with no modifications.
Interior:
Hole in floor board is shaped different. It was cut out to ensure the shifter would not interfere. Used a 1/8 inch sheet of aluminum mounted to the exisiting sheetmetal floor. Painted it. Installed the shift levers and inner boots and insulation followed by the outer, interior color matched boots and console piece.
The larger automatic brake pedal cluster was removed and the two pedal cluster bolted right in it's place. With the clutch pedal in, the bracket creates a template on exactly where to drill for the clutch master. Once cut open, including the mounting screw holes, master clutch cylinder bolts right in. The hard lines have existing mounting point installed by the factory, but never used. The long line goes from the master, up and around the engine on the firewall to the bracket on the passenger side of the car. From there, the soft line is used to go from there to a mounting point on the trans where it mounts to another hard line. The second hard line goes into the clutch slave cylinder. I asked for all of the hard and soft lines when I purchased the trans. Although I didn't use them, they included all of the brackets and necessary hardware.
Wiring:
The Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) is then wired up into the cab and attached to the clutch pedal to be activated when the clutch is fully depressed (There are two switches on the clutch pedal.) This allows the truck to ONLY be started when the clutch is pushed in. It also allows for the cruise control to work when the clutch is not pressed. The reverse light wires are wired up to the new trans as for the transfer case activating the ADD. Additionally, there are two pairs of wires in the brake pedal, one for the brake lights, the other for the cruise control cancel. The later should be wired up to the second switch on the clutch pedal that engages if you only press on the clutch a little.
That's about it in a nut shell. Not bad for going completely of memory from a job I did in January 2004.
My new and more difficult task is to take my 1998 4Runner Limited, which were all automatics, and convert it to a manual. It's just really hard to find 3rd generation 5-speed trans/transfer cases around.
I have a 1990 4Runner. I here is what I purchased:
Used:
1993 Pickup (Hilux) Trans and Transfer Case
1993 Pedal Cluster with all switches attached
1993 Gear Levers
New:
Master and Slave Cylinder
1 Long / 1 Short hard line for clutch fluid
1 Soft line
8 Bolts for the Flywheel
Flywheel
Full Clutch Assembly
Trans Mount
Shifter Console and boots
Process: We removed drive shaft, cooling lines to radiator, trans throttle cable and cross member, then the trans/transfer case, torque converter and plate that looks like a flywheel, plus shifters and interior shifter trim. The exhaust may in the way, but I have Downey headers that detach at the beginning and end of the Y-Pipe, which gets out of the way of the trans. The inlet and outlet of trans cooler in radiator was plugged. Bracket at throttle body was removed. All electronic wiring was retained.
Flywheel was bolted up with clutch and trans/transfer case were installed with new mount on cross member. There is a difference between the auto and manual trans mount. Drive shaft bolted right up with no modifications.
Interior:
Hole in floor board is shaped different. It was cut out to ensure the shifter would not interfere. Used a 1/8 inch sheet of aluminum mounted to the exisiting sheetmetal floor. Painted it. Installed the shift levers and inner boots and insulation followed by the outer, interior color matched boots and console piece.
The larger automatic brake pedal cluster was removed and the two pedal cluster bolted right in it's place. With the clutch pedal in, the bracket creates a template on exactly where to drill for the clutch master. Once cut open, including the mounting screw holes, master clutch cylinder bolts right in. The hard lines have existing mounting point installed by the factory, but never used. The long line goes from the master, up and around the engine on the firewall to the bracket on the passenger side of the car. From there, the soft line is used to go from there to a mounting point on the trans where it mounts to another hard line. The second hard line goes into the clutch slave cylinder. I asked for all of the hard and soft lines when I purchased the trans. Although I didn't use them, they included all of the brackets and necessary hardware.
Wiring:
The Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) is then wired up into the cab and attached to the clutch pedal to be activated when the clutch is fully depressed (There are two switches on the clutch pedal.) This allows the truck to ONLY be started when the clutch is pushed in. It also allows for the cruise control to work when the clutch is not pressed. The reverse light wires are wired up to the new trans as for the transfer case activating the ADD. Additionally, there are two pairs of wires in the brake pedal, one for the brake lights, the other for the cruise control cancel. The later should be wired up to the second switch on the clutch pedal that engages if you only press on the clutch a little.
That's about it in a nut shell. Not bad for going completely of memory from a job I did in January 2004.
My new and more difficult task is to take my 1998 4Runner Limited, which were all automatics, and convert it to a manual. It's just really hard to find 3rd generation 5-speed trans/transfer cases around.
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Hey Matt,
No problem on the age, I still reply about my 1990 4Runner trans swap.
Here is the breakdown of the swap and prices.
Used:
Transmission, transfer case, shift levers, flywheel, shift boots, pedal cluster & rear drive shaft: $600 from Nix 99 in Lynnwood WA.
New:
Transmission mount: $45 dealer
Interior shift boot and center console: $65 dealer
Clutch Master and Slave: $72 AutoZone
2 Hard lines & 1 Soft line: $57 dealer
8 Flywheel Bolts: $60 dealer
Synthetic gear, brake, and trans fluids: $60 Autozone
OEM Heavy Duty Clutch: $110 online dealer
Service:
Resurface Flywheel $25 Dealer (Better price since friend worked there)
Optional which I did:
Rebuilt and balanced rear drive shaft: $165 at local drive line shop
Engine mounts: $84 dealer
Minus the optional stuff, it was about $1100 for the swap (+-$100) for small incidentals.
I hope this help, although these are prices from my swap I did in January 2004. Somehow I actually remember what I spent. Still have the truck in the family, but it has too many miles now to be a daily driver, just about to hit 420K, swap was done at 225K
Thanks.
No problem on the age, I still reply about my 1990 4Runner trans swap.
Here is the breakdown of the swap and prices.
Used:
Transmission, transfer case, shift levers, flywheel, shift boots, pedal cluster & rear drive shaft: $600 from Nix 99 in Lynnwood WA.
New:
Transmission mount: $45 dealer
Interior shift boot and center console: $65 dealer
Clutch Master and Slave: $72 AutoZone
2 Hard lines & 1 Soft line: $57 dealer
8 Flywheel Bolts: $60 dealer
Synthetic gear, brake, and trans fluids: $60 Autozone
OEM Heavy Duty Clutch: $110 online dealer
Service:
Resurface Flywheel $25 Dealer (Better price since friend worked there)
Optional which I did:
Rebuilt and balanced rear drive shaft: $165 at local drive line shop
Engine mounts: $84 dealer
Minus the optional stuff, it was about $1100 for the swap (+-$100) for small incidentals.
I hope this help, although these are prices from my swap I did in January 2004. Somehow I actually remember what I spent. Still have the truck in the family, but it has too many miles now to be a daily driver, just about to hit 420K, swap was done at 225K
Thanks.
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On the plus side
I came across a 90 with a blown head gasket and a 5 speed for $500 + 100 to tow + $300 for buddy to install $170 for clutch kit then got any parts I would need in the future then parted out the rest for $1200 within a week
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