92 4Runner engine clicking/knocking.
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
92 4Runner engine clicking - also bad ADD - photos if needed
Hi guys,
I recently bought my first 4x4 upon my return to Canada from being overseas in Europe and Australia for the past eight years.
I bought it for 2.8k with a 3" body lift on 33" tyres. Immediately I had the shocks and rear coils replaced along with engine work I got some Bilstein shocks. The engine work was timing belt, all filters and oil changes. Pumps and the normal rework for an engine with 230k on it. I drove it from Vancouver to Yellowknife so I wanted it reliable. This work set me back about 5k for everything.
Anyway, Ive already broken the ACC up front on the diff and found a useful article in this very forum that I'll be having a crack at.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
I know nothing about engines or have any clue what I'm doing but want to learn. It will both save me money and seriously, a man should know how to fix his vehicle so there it is.
First, I think I broke the ADD when it got stuck in a bog for a few hours and water got into the petrol tank. I fixed that with a fuel additive and noticed the ADD wasn't working when I got stuck again in a small bit of mud that I should not be stuck in. The 4x4 light no longer comes on. Also, I replaced the hubs with manual ones so perhaps it was not installed correctly? Half the job of getting rid of the ADD is done.
Onto the real concern though. My engine is now knocking and that just started on Saturday. It's not a low banging nor does it sound overly metallic. It's more high pitched as clicking goes. It gets faster when I rev the engine as well.
It does have some funny characteristics though such as going away completely when I stand on the brakes. It also goes away when I turn the wheel. It only goes while I actually turn the wheel. As soon as I hold the wheel steady it returns.
I've given mechanics enough money so it's time to learn to fix it my own damn self. I hope I've given enough background information on my issue and look forward to hearing the advice and having a go at it.
So far the forums here are very informative. I've spent hours in here reading already. After this I'll start saving for some Aussie lockers.
Oh yeah, I also had to have the rear diff fixed too. When they drained the oil bits fell out. Apparently the gearing is rare in mine. He got in what should have been the right gears but they didn't fit so I had to find some used ones instead. The mechanic felt bad and started giving me free parts because the final bill for him was 3.2k.....
Edit///
Just called the mechanic that did the work to ask for the diff gearing. It's 430, will that need to change if I go bigger than the 33" tyres on it now?
Cheers fellas
EDIT of EDIT////
I just pulled the vacuum line to the EGR and sucked on it as per advice in this forum. The engine nearly stalled so I guess that rules the cheap and simple out....
Please help, I'm now stuck for ideas.
I recently bought my first 4x4 upon my return to Canada from being overseas in Europe and Australia for the past eight years.
I bought it for 2.8k with a 3" body lift on 33" tyres. Immediately I had the shocks and rear coils replaced along with engine work I got some Bilstein shocks. The engine work was timing belt, all filters and oil changes. Pumps and the normal rework for an engine with 230k on it. I drove it from Vancouver to Yellowknife so I wanted it reliable. This work set me back about 5k for everything.
Anyway, Ive already broken the ACC up front on the diff and found a useful article in this very forum that I'll be having a crack at.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
I know nothing about engines or have any clue what I'm doing but want to learn. It will both save me money and seriously, a man should know how to fix his vehicle so there it is.
First, I think I broke the ADD when it got stuck in a bog for a few hours and water got into the petrol tank. I fixed that with a fuel additive and noticed the ADD wasn't working when I got stuck again in a small bit of mud that I should not be stuck in. The 4x4 light no longer comes on. Also, I replaced the hubs with manual ones so perhaps it was not installed correctly? Half the job of getting rid of the ADD is done.
Onto the real concern though. My engine is now knocking and that just started on Saturday. It's not a low banging nor does it sound overly metallic. It's more high pitched as clicking goes. It gets faster when I rev the engine as well.
It does have some funny characteristics though such as going away completely when I stand on the brakes. It also goes away when I turn the wheel. It only goes while I actually turn the wheel. As soon as I hold the wheel steady it returns.
I've given mechanics enough money so it's time to learn to fix it my own damn self. I hope I've given enough background information on my issue and look forward to hearing the advice and having a go at it.
So far the forums here are very informative. I've spent hours in here reading already. After this I'll start saving for some Aussie lockers.
Oh yeah, I also had to have the rear diff fixed too. When they drained the oil bits fell out. Apparently the gearing is rare in mine. He got in what should have been the right gears but they didn't fit so I had to find some used ones instead. The mechanic felt bad and started giving me free parts because the final bill for him was 3.2k.....
Edit///
Just called the mechanic that did the work to ask for the diff gearing. It's 430, will that need to change if I go bigger than the 33" tyres on it now?
Cheers fellas
EDIT of EDIT////
I just pulled the vacuum line to the EGR and sucked on it as per advice in this forum. The engine nearly stalled so I guess that rules the cheap and simple out....
Please help, I'm now stuck for ideas.
Last edited by Red Wagon; 08-15-2011 at 10:57 AM.
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Glendora, CA
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Interesting.... Almost sounds like valevetrain in some of the audio. Then it sounds like the fan is hitting something... Try disconnecting the vacuum line to the brake booster. Do you get the same results when stepping on the brakes ? Remove ps belt and turn the vehicle. Again, do u get the same results ??
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'll look up where the line to the brake booster and try. Maybe someone can give me a hand getting the power steering belt off.
Thanks for your reply! I'll try what you said and report back. I'll put in video again.
Thanks for your reply! I'll try what you said and report back. I'll put in video again.
Last edited by Red Wagon; 08-15-2011 at 07:38 PM.
#5
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I think i've got an idea on what i could be but i dont know much about motors...just some routine maitnence. Have you checked to see if the motor is hitting the firewall because on our 85 cj after we lifted it and put a dif drop in the same sound you described happened...We fixed it by taking off the drop and now we're going to re-shim the rear axle or if that doesnt work a new rear drive shaft. Granted i had two a days today and even though its only 10 im like dead tired so i could be completely off...but good luck!
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
I noticed another noise that is going hand in hand with the knocking. I light squealing sound that also goes away when I stand on the break. Something must be loose in there. I hope that's all it is.
Is the Valvetrain connected to the vacuum system?
Does this ring any bells for anyone?
If it was a cylinder or in the lower engine area it should not go away while turning the wheel or standing on the brake correct?
Is the Valvetrain connected to the vacuum system?
Does this ring any bells for anyone?
If it was a cylinder or in the lower engine area it should not go away while turning the wheel or standing on the brake correct?
Last edited by Red Wagon; 08-16-2011 at 05:22 PM.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Took it to a mechanic who said it was the power steering pump. Didn't take him long to figure it out either.
Should I order it in myself and instal it? Is it easy?
Should I order it in myself and instal it? Is it easy?
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
It was the power steering. Had to replace the pump but that one is faulty so they have to replace it again.
Thanks for your help everyone!
Thanks for your help everyone!
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