rc14

iTrader: (1)

(New Member here) My Son bought a 90 4runner 3.0 automatic, it was skipping when we looked at it, the guy we got it from bought it for his son but could not get it running good so know its my turn i guess, he replaced the knock sencer, mass air flow, plugs, wires, caps and rotor. I got it home and set the timing was way off. set it at 10. degrees
and runs better with out a skip but weak and after a few miles it gets very very weak and will not pull up a hill to the point that it will not go at all.
cut it off and restart it and it starts all over again, same mileage it does it again.
I did a compression check last night and the drivers side was 145 to 155 but the other side was 110 to 145. I put oil in the 110 cylinder but must have used to much, know 155 but the gauge is stuck at 60psi still goes up but not below. 60psi
any help.
Thanks and a very nice site here.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Fuel issue? Filter, pump, pickup screen in the tank?

rc14

iTrader: (1)

Not sure if its a fuel issue or not. Dont know much about the yota. The guy we got it from could not tell me anything about it other then what he did to it. I ask about timimg belt,?? Water pump?? No real info.

HIGH_MTN

I have exactly the same problem I can't find the solution. It only does this when I go up a long steep incline.
I've replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, cap rotor plugs, cleaned egr and same result.
hope someone can find a solution for us

rc14

iTrader: (1)

Will be installing new fuel pump strainer and filter this weekend and i hope that works.

ksti

Your guessing above mention parts were replaced. Did you check spark plug gap while you had plugs out? I don't know what brand they are but find that 3vze likes Denso or NGK. One plug not properly gaped can also cause your issue. Good luck. Hope you find the problem.

rc14

iTrader: (1)

ksti yes i gaped them at 31 what the manual says and they are NGK. changed filter today and got the tank out pump should be here in the morning. we will see what happens.

rc14

iTrader: (1)

OK i installed the new fuel pump and strainer, Did not like the strainer because it stuck up instead of laying flat in the tank but installed it anyway. New fuel filter yesterday. put the tank back up, put gas in it and now it will not start. It was running before i put the pump in. i lossened the bango bolt on both ends of the fuel rail on the drivers side the only one you can get to and i have fuel at the back one but none at the front one. I wish i would have checked this before i installed the pump.

I have good pressure at the filter and yes its in right. so i removed tank again and got a different strainer and installed it and put the tank in again and same thing. no fuel to the front of the fuel rail. any ideas. getting a little frustrated.

rc14

iTrader: (1)

OK i think i may have found the problem Not Sure Yet. The flex connection from the fuel line mounted at frame that hooks to the fuel line coming out of the tank
short 6 or 8 inch flex hose looks like it is crimping when the tank is in. After 3 tank removals i find a acess panel under the back seat
guess i will have to get that at the Toyota dealer.

rc14

iTrader: (1)

No Body ???

rc14

iTrader: (1)

New Fuel Filter new fuel pump and new flex at pump that is not crimped and runs about the same. runs good for a mile or two then will not take the fuel or air not sure.?? cut it off and good for a mile or two again then same.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

So it runs great for a couple miles, then gets weak. Shut it off, immediately start it back up and it's great for another couple miles. And you can do this as often as you want and it's the same thing over and over. Is this the correct description?

rc14

iTrader: (1)

Yes I would not say it runs great for a few mile but its not to bad then just gets worse.

MaK92-4RnR

Sounds like a TPS issue.

rbmoomba

Test the tps per fsm, very easy. Adjusting the new one may be a little more challenging. Good luck

rc14

iTrader: (1)

OK i can do that. It don't run hot. I do get the O/D light flashing but i did not think it has anything to do with how good it runs. i have not got it up fast enough to see if it goes in to overdrive.
Thanks for all your help. i have had a 22R and 22RTE but not a 3.0.

Kiroshu

-Coolant Temperature sensor

-Throttle body coolant passages blocked

-Cold Start injector stuck open(Leaking)

-Incorrect valve clearance

-Timing belt off

-Fuel pump relay

-Overheatig fuel pump

-Ignition coil

-Air leaks(vacuum)

rc14

iTrader: (1)

Kiroshu Holy Cow thats a shopping list. I will start with air leaks, Then the throttle body cleaning. and then fuel pressure regulator may as well replace it so all i have left in the fuel system is injectors. Then adjust valves and change the timing belt. I have not idea when it was changed last.

One question The DP (dash pod) what the ___ is it for i have noticed that the adjustment screw for it is gone so it is not being used at this point but i don't know what it does.??
School starts soon and my son is on me to get it going, I don't mind as long as he is there helping.
Thanks Guys

rc14

iTrader: (1)

Last night i was taking the trottle body off and found a loss wire. crap and can not find where it goes. it is around the temp senser but all that is wired up. pulled the manual out and have not had any luck. i hate wiring and i am not good at it. I pulled the shielding back and its blue with a red ring around it. so i guess that is L-R and t shows up on a 22RE i do think.

Kiroshu

Hmm... Pics?

Loose wiring could pose a problem depending on where its from ^_^

Dash pot is mainly for cushoning throttle on deceleration....