2nd Gen susp. lift comparison/review

hokiruu · 12-13-2005, 01:31 PM

Hey My name is Uuri I have a 95 runner with totally stock suspension. I have been considering a 3-4" lift for some time now and want to know people's experiences with them all. Alot of the sellers aren't very clear on exactly what is in each one. The ones I am am considering if I don't just go for the little OME are:
Trailmaster
Tuff Country
Pro Comp
Super lift
Downey

AFAIK the Trailmaster and Tuff Country drop down the front arms with extention backets and use longer stiffer springs in back. What are your opinions on these different lifts? can someone who knows please explain the differences between them?

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***Strap22*** · 12-13-2005, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hokiruu

The ones I am am considering if I don't just go for the little OME are:
Trailmaster
Tuff Country
Pro Comp
Super lift
Downey

AFAIK the Trailmaster and Tuff Country drop down the front arms with extention backets and use longer stiffer springs in back. What are your opinions on these different lifts? can someone who knows please explain the differences between them?

This "Little OME" is a great setup. In the picture is 4 Shocks, 2 Coil Springs, Ball Joint spacers, Steering Stabilzer, Rear Coil Spacers. this will give you 3-4" of lift over Factory height. The Downey Pan Hard bracket and Rear Control Arm Truss (Sonoran Steel now offers a much beefier rear truss)are all you need to get you started. I would recommend the PPV bracket and maybe extended brake lines if you use the rear coil spacers and lift the front to be even. The OME setup is a what I run on my '91 2nd Gen. For the price you can't go wrong. Total $614.04

Randomness · 12-13-2005, 05:57 PM

I'd recommend Land Cruiser coils in the back, new shocks, BJ spacers, and then a 1-2" BL if needed.

**Lysmachia** · 12-13-2005, 07:07 PM

I've got Landcruiser coils in the back and holy crap do I have articulation!

I only wish ToyTechLifts made stuff for 95 and before. They do 96 and after 4 runners and their lift kits for the 4 runner are 15% off...

http://www.toyteclifts.com/4Runner.html - You still might want to contact Dough at TTL and see if he has anything you could use...

tc · 12-13-2005, 08:10 PM

Do you really need that much lift? What size tires do you want to run?

Here's a good review of how much lift for what tire sizes...
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

hokiruu · 12-14-2005, 10:23 PM

thanks for the replies guys. for some reason i thought that the OME only was 2-3", but hey 3-4" is good news and actually would probably be enough. I don't think I'll ever run bigger than 33x11.5 or 12.5. For now I only have 31x11.5 Dueler Revos.
One reason I thought I might need some front lift after replacing real coils is that I want to run lower offset wheels. I have been told that even with my current tire size on a lower offset, I run the risk of rubbing. T/F?
The reason I want lower offset is to widen the track in order to add a little stability (especially if I lift it) and for looks. The OME is def. appealing, but I always explore all my options, so I just wanted to know about some of the others. I do not want to add a body lift. If I'm lifting, I want more clearance, plus I am not a big fan of how it looks. I mean, if I HAD to I would but I'd plan in order to avoid it.

tc · 12-15-2005, 05:54 AM

With less offset (tires stick out more) and wider tires, body contact, not suspension/frame contact will be the issue. The easiest, most cost effective ways to prevent this are trim the fenders and/or a small body lift.

I shared the same opinions about the looks of a body lift until someone on here pointed out how covered the frame is on Toyota trucks and I looked at my 'runner with that in mind. It's not like American trucks where any body lift is going to show the gap between the frame and body. A 1" body lift will hardly show any frame - actually just enough to weld on some sliders.

Personally, I totally agree with the "as little as you can" lift philosophy, and it seems the best way to do this is combine a relatively small suspension lift and body lift.

Sticking with a narrower tire solves a lot of these problems too. I am getting some 33x10.50's this week (no lift in front, just fixed saggy springs in rear), there's another guy on here running 35x10.50's with little/no lift. I will probably do a 1" 4Crawler body lift this summer - too cold for that kind of work here now!

Doc279 · 12-15-2005, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randomness

I'd recommend Land Cruiser coils in the back, new shocks, BJ spacers, and then a 1-2" BL if needed.

Hey Randomness,

What model Land Cruiser coils ?

I already have the ball joint spacers
and a 1" body lift - currently using Downey HD rear coils

AUYota · 12-16-2005, 09:55 AM

check out 4Crawler lifts! His lifts seem to be more Toyota based than others

Go for some 1.5" ball joint spacers up front, and rise the torsion bar about .5-1"
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml
plus some spring spacers in the rear
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ngSpacer.shtml

Then consider a good body lift. A one inch body lift after the above is a NICE lift. After a 2" body lift you'll need more work done.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml

After that you can use 33" tires which also give an inch so that is 2+1+1= 4" Also the 33" 10.50's run alot better than the 11.50's in my opinion and the 11.50's don't really help all that much. You can't run 12.5 on stock rims, and I'm not a fan of changing rims. Don't get much good out of it for the cost, and trouble IMO.

Keggo · 12-18-2005, 01:49 AM

Search for a thread made by me... I give part numbers on landcruiser coils and whatnot... also there's a thread called something like "The BJ Spacer/Landcruiser coil thread"... or something of the sort, I believe Cebby started it...?

birfieldbuster · 12-19-2005, 06:31 PM

If you go with a bracket lift in the front (btw, dont do it) use one that has completely welded pieces, not the kind that reuses the old crossmember.
Yellow Sub's rig has the that kind and it is a headache to keep aligned.

YeloSub7 · 12-19-2005, 06:42 PM

Ya it sucks, that's one of the many reasons why I am selling my runner...

hokiruu · 01-10-2006, 08:22 AM

just out of curiosity why do you advise against a drop bracket on the front? oh and i couldn't have possibly established myself as a noob any more clearly... i meant i actually have 31x10.5 not 11.5. d'oh! I am down with the skinnies and yeah i dont want tons of lift i guess. want to sun 32x10.5 for now so i don't think i'll need 4". with downey hd coils in back and ranked bars in front, will i have the option of fitting 33x10.5"?

tc · 01-10-2006, 09:46 AM

I have 33x10.50 with NO lift and no rubbing. Make sure you have at least 4.56 gears though (came with 31's from factory)

gen3_motorsports · 07-14-2007, 07:31 PM

Im running a 93 4runner SR-5 4x4 IFS and A Superlift 4 1/2 lift kit, 35'' mickey thompson tires 2 3/4 backspace on the wheels no rubbing no limit on what I can clear

The kit includes everything for $2100.00 + install

I did the work my self so I saved $1000.00 on labor

The work can take 2 days

FredTJ · 07-15-2007, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hokiruu

thanks for the replies guys. for some reason i thought that the OME only was 2-3", but hey 3-4" is good news and actually would probably be enough. I don't think I'll ever run bigger than 33x11.5 or 12.5. For now I only have 31x11.5 Dueler Revos.
One reason I thought I might need some front lift after replacing real coils is that I want to run lower offset wheels. I have been told that even with my current tire size on a lower offset, I run the risk of rubbing. T/F?
The reason I want lower offset is to widen the track in order to add a little stability (especially if I lift it) and for looks. The OME is def. appealing, but I always explore all my options, so I just wanted to know about some of the others. I do not want to add a body lift. If I'm lifting, I want more clearance, plus I am not a big fan of how it looks. I mean, if I HAD to I would but I'd plan in order to avoid it.

If you're going to run 33's, save yourself a bunch and install a 2" bl.
That'll work just fine, provide you with all the room that you'll need for 33's, keep your COG low (relatively speaking), provide room to push the tranny and xfer case up and provide room to push the gas tank up, all of which provides more clearance.
Spend the money that you've now saved on armor (bumpers, front and rear, rocker protection, idler arm brace, lower rear a-arm brace, gas tank skid, etc).

Doing this, you'll be set for about anything that you're likely to encounter anytime soon.

Fred

12-13-2005, 05:57 PM	#3 (permalink)
Randomness Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Sammamish, WA Posts: 1,385	I'd recommend Land Cruiser coils in the back, new shocks, BJ spacers, and then a 1-2" BL if needed. __________________ 95 3.slow SR5 4runner 160K miles \| 32's \| OME \| Optima \| Husky \| dechromed \| ryan \| My Photography Blog

12-13-2005, 08:10 PM	#5 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,376	Do you really need that much lift? What size tires do you want to run? Here's a good review of how much lift for what tire sizes... http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10 __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

12-14-2005, 10:23 PM	#6 (permalink)
hokiruu Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: santa fe, nm Posts: 50	thanks for the replies guys. for some reason i thought that the OME only was 2-3", but hey 3-4" is good news and actually would probably be enough. I don't think I'll ever run bigger than 33x11.5 or 12.5. For now I only have 31x11.5 Dueler Revos. One reason I thought I might need some front lift after replacing real coils is that I want to run lower offset wheels. I have been told that even with my current tire size on a lower offset, I run the risk of rubbing. T/F? The reason I want lower offset is to widen the track in order to add a little stability (especially if I lift it) and for looks. The OME is def. appealing, but I always explore all my options, so I just wanted to know about some of the others. I do not want to add a body lift. If I'm lifting, I want more clearance, plus I am not a big fan of how it looks. I mean, if I HAD to I would but I'd plan in order to avoid it. Last edited by hokiruu; 12-14-2005 at 10:27 PM.

12-15-2005, 05:54 AM	#7 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,376	With less offset (tires stick out more) and wider tires, body contact, not suspension/frame contact will be the issue. The easiest, most cost effective ways to prevent this are trim the fenders and/or a small body lift. I shared the same opinions about the looks of a body lift until someone on here pointed out how covered the frame is on Toyota trucks and I looked at my 'runner with that in mind. It's not like American trucks where any body lift is going to show the gap between the frame and body. A 1" body lift will hardly show any frame - actually just enough to weld on some sliders. Personally, I totally agree with the "as little as you can" lift philosophy, and it seems the best way to do this is combine a relatively small suspension lift and body lift. Sticking with a narrower tire solves a lot of these problems too. I am getting some 33x10.50's this week (no lift in front, just fixed saggy springs in rear), there's another guy on here running 35x10.50's with little/no lift. I will probably do a 1" 4Crawler body lift this summer - too cold for that kind of work here now! __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

12-16-2005, 09:55 AM	#9 (permalink)
AUYota Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA. Posts: 190	check out 4Crawler lifts! His lifts seem to be more Toyota based than others Go for some 1.5" ball joint spacers up front, and rise the torsion bar about .5-1" http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml plus some spring spacers in the rear http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ngSpacer.shtml Then consider a good body lift. A one inch body lift after the above is a NICE lift. After a 2" body lift you'll need more work done. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml After that you can use 33" tires which also give an inch so that is 2+1+1= 4" Also the 33" 10.50's run alot better than the 11.50's in my opinion and the 11.50's don't really help all that much. You can't run 12.5 on stock rims, and I'm not a fan of changing rims. Don't get much good out of it for the cost, and trouble IMO. Last edited by AUYota; 12-16-2005 at 09:58 AM.

12-18-2005, 01:49 AM	#10 (permalink)
Keggo Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Bakersfield, CA Posts: 1,831	Search for a thread made by me... I give part numbers on landcruiser coils and whatnot... also there's a thread called something like "The BJ Spacer/Landcruiser coil thread"... or something of the sort, I believe Cebby started it...? __________________ - Kevin E. G. SOLD!!! '91 4Runner SR5 V6 5spd: CLICK!! FOR SALE NOW! Proud dad of Kai E. G.!

12-19-2005, 06:31 PM	#11 (permalink)
birfieldbuster Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Morgan Hill/Newhall, Ca Posts: 96	If you go with a bracket lift in the front (btw, dont do it) use one that has completely welded pieces, not the kind that reuses the old crossmember. Yellow Sub's rig has the that kind and it is a headache to keep aligned. __________________ ~Gabe

12-19-2005, 06:42 PM	#12 (permalink)
YeloSub7 Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 897	Ya it sucks, that's one of the many reasons why I am selling my runner... __________________ -Jake 1990 4Runner <> 1990 Toyota 4Runner-22RE-5 speed-TG 3" front/4" rear-35" BFG M/T-4.88's-rear LSD-front TruTrac-MC Rear Bumper-TG DOM Sliders-TG Front Bumper SAS Build-Up Old Rigs: '85 4Runner (RIP) '95 4Runner (sold)

01-10-2006, 08:22 AM	#13 (permalink)
hokiruu Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: santa fe, nm Posts: 50	just out of curiosity why do you advise against a drop bracket on the front? oh and i couldn't have possibly established myself as a noob any more clearly... i meant i actually have 31x10.5 not 11.5. d'oh! I am down with the skinnies and yeah i dont want tons of lift i guess. want to sun 32x10.5 for now so i don't think i'll need 4". with downey hd coils in back and ranked bars in front, will i have the option of fitting 33x10.5"? Last edited by hokiruu; 01-10-2006 at 08:27 AM.

01-10-2006, 09:46 AM	#14 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,376	I have 33x10.50 with NO lift and no rubbing. Make sure you have at least 4.56 gears though (came with 31's from factory) __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

07-14-2007, 07:31 PM	#15 (permalink)
gen3_motorsports Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Arizona Posts: 12	Im running a 93 4runner SR-5 4x4 IFS and A Superlift 4 1/2 lift kit, 35'' mickey thompson tires 2 3/4 backspace on the wheels no rubbing no limit on what I can clear The kit includes everything for $2100.00 + install I did the work my self so I saved $1000.00 on labor The work can take 2 days __________________ Gen 3 Motorsports - 93 Toyota 4Runner SR-5 3.0 V6 - No Mods

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