1986 toyota won't start
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1986 toyota won't start
I have a 1986 pickup with a pre-84 22r motor. It blew a hole in the radiator an got everything wet. Well i put water in it drove it about 5 mire miles down the road and down shifted at a stop light an it cut off. An it won't start back up. I replaced the ignition coil plug wires distributor cap rotor but an i.complete timing set in it. An still nothing i have no idea what's wrong with it....... Any ideas?
#2
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So I am guessing that that starter work and your engine turns. I suggest doing the simple checks like your pump turns on when KOEO (key on engine off) or checking if you have any disconnected or damaged vacuum hoses.
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Yes i did check for spark an i have it all the way to the plugs. As for the fuel pump i have one in the tank an one in the tank an fuel is getting to the carb.
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I even tried turning the distributor 180. When i put the new timing chain it i lined everything up correctly #1 was TDC and distributor was firing on 1.
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Cheaply? Run down to a local auto parts store most places will rent out rhe compression tester but there fairly cheap. Pull ur spark plugs out screw it inthe SP hole and crank rhe motor over about five (5) times and should read about 120-160psi ur good. They all should be about rhe same if all is good. If k were you label the plugs and what holes they go to also.
#13
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In your other thread you said it overheated or came close. Could your head gasket be blown causing compression loss? Is your coolant going anywhere it shouldn't.
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Yeah oli forgot to mention that i got hot i haven't tore the head off of it yet. Would a head gasket cause the it to not fire even while putting raw fuel and starting fluid in the carb?
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I did get it to fire up once. A buddy of mine told me to pour ATF fluid in the cylinder & it fired up an shut off. He suggested head gasket. But my oil isn't milky? Im confused.
Last edited by 86yoterbug; 05-12-2013 at 04:19 PM.
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I did get it to fire up once. A buddy of mine told me to pour ATF fluid in the cylinder & it fired up an shut off. He suggested head gasket. But my oil isn't milky? Im confused.
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Just a a relevant add, if you do the compression check, be sure to remove the wire from the coil to the distributor before you turn the thing over. You do NOT want it lighting up during your compression test.
The three engine basics: fuel, spark, compression. If you have all three, the motor runs, period. If the motor doesn't run, check to see what's missing out of those three.
The three engine basics: fuel, spark, compression. If you have all three, the motor runs, period. If the motor doesn't run, check to see what's missing out of those three.
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Well, that's problem number 1. You should be making 130 to 185 PSI. Two things:
1) When you replaced the timing chain, you may have missed lining the cam and the crank up by a link or two. Verify that everything lines up properly. This is a great resource for TC replacement procedures:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/
2) Whenever I see someone who has a compression drop across all cylinders, I recommend a valve lash adjustment. It is a 15 minute job, and sometimes instantly corrects this issue. Here's a procedure for that:
http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/..._adjustme.html
Try checking these things, let us know how it goes!
1) When you replaced the timing chain, you may have missed lining the cam and the crank up by a link or two. Verify that everything lines up properly. This is a great resource for TC replacement procedures:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/
2) Whenever I see someone who has a compression drop across all cylinders, I recommend a valve lash adjustment. It is a 15 minute job, and sometimes instantly corrects this issue. Here's a procedure for that:
http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/..._adjustme.html
Try checking these things, let us know how it goes!