slackermoney

Disclaimer: I am car-tarded, and sometimes just plain stupid.

Vehicle: 2003 2WD 4Runner

Problem: I have known I needed to get my rear brakes done for about 2 weeks, but due to a hectic work schedule, I havent had the time. Today disaster struck.

The grinding has been getting worse (I accepted the fact new rotors would be called for), and on the way home it started sounding really bad. I figured I should pull over, so I did, and got out to take a look (no idea what I was actually looking for/at).

One rotor was particularly worn, so I decided to try to just make it home so I could work on it tomorrow. As I tried to back up out of the parking spot, it seemed as if the rear passenger wheel had seized up. I tried pumping the brakes a few times, and boom, the brake light came on (the one that indicates I need a dealership visit). Rush hour was no time to take a risk, so I called the wife and had her pick me up. While I was waiting, I said screw it and decided brute force might work, so I gunned it and got the truck moving. Minus the loud as all hell grinding, it seemed to move fine.

Question: In this condition is it at least somewhat safe to drive the truck approx. 8 miles back to my house, or am I risking death?

Any temporary fixes I can do to make it drive safe for 8 miles?

Thanks for the help.

GSGALLANT

Maybe you have a seized caliper piston back there (I'm not sure what the 2003 4Runner rear brake calipers look like... or more specifically how many pistons they have). Jack that wheel off the ground and remove it. See if you can pry the brake pads away from the rotor. They should be hard to move, but once they do move, they should move smoothly. Not sure what would have caused your brake light to come on, though... maybe the 2003 system uses the wheel speed sensors to detect that one wheel is not turning while the rest are?

With a wheel that turns hard enough to be called pretty much seized, I wouldn't be driving 8 miles.

CJ3Flyr

"car-tarded", love it!


I wouldn't drive it. Call AAA and have it flat-bedded.

It sounds like you are getting to the point where the caliper has or is about to fail. Once that occurs the brake system will lose pressure and fluid. Short version: Have it towed. Based on your description you can't even count on the remaining 3 brakes working at 100% due to the possibility of pressure/fluid loss.

That's my 2cents.

slackermoney

Update: I got home and I'm still in one piece.

Other than the obnoxious grinding sound, the ride home was problem-free.

Next question: The rear driver side rotor is pretty grooved, but the passenger side still seems smooth.

If I were to just replace the pads today, would it pass for a temporary fix until I have time to order rotors and put them on?

jason191918

If you want to replace the pads again later. You will more than likely destroy your new pads if the rotors are bad.

camo31_10.50

it would be alright to just throw some new pads on...but only if you want to replace them again whenever you get new rotors..because the old rotor will DESTROY the new pads...also..depending on how hot this rotor got...and how bad the grooving is...you could have them turned...but i would check them for heat cracks or discoloration first..i've machined some pretty deep groves at the auto shop at the local Vo-Tech..and if anybody lived around here that needed any kind of brake work done...they could bring it over there to sallisaw, ok..and i'd do just about anything to the brakes they want me to..for less than half the price a shop would charge...lol..this stuff is cake to do..