Smaay

Sorry for posting such a noob type question, working on and modding cars is something I do for a living but im new to my 4 Runner.

I have a 93 4X4 SR5 V6 with auto hubs. do I have ADD? Looking at getting the Warn or Rugged Ridge manual hub conversion.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If you have ADD you do not have Automatic hubs you have just a cover plate covering the access to the wheel bearings

You can tell if you Have ADD by the valve that sits on Top of the front differential .

Just put your Warn Hubs on It should have the 2 Nuts the lock plate you just might need the thrust washer The snap rings that hold the CV axle it has been a while since I put my Warn Hubs on I don`t remember.

SacRunner

Check out http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

specifically:

Note the upper NON-ADD tube vs the lower (detached) ADD tube

RJR

I think the ADD system had pretty much completely replaced the automatic hubs by 1993, so it's likely you have ADD. The Aisin (OEM) manual hubs are generally considered the best, and a set can be picked up on ebay for $100 or so if you watch for them. Might have to disassemble and clean them up, but that's not at all difficult. Several good writeups on this site about it. Once you get them cleaned up and ready to go, putting them on is a snap. No need to mess with the CV axle snap ring or even to jack up the truck. Just pull off the grease cap, remove the gold bolt, remove the drive plates (assuming ADD), and replace them with the hubs. Replace the gold bolt, put on the cap, and you're good to go.

INFINITY

u got it backwards....
auto first then add

RJR

I think that's exactly what I said...

Smaay

thanks for the info guys. Ill take a look tomorrow to see what I have.

So thats 1 recommendation for Warn lockers. what about the RR lockers?

RJR

BTW, it's not just a "cover plate". It's called a "drive plate" because it connects the splined CV axle to the wheel and transmits the torque from axle to wheel. Take off that plate and it's the same as unlocking a manual hub.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Interesting the ones on mine were just a cover.( I got the terms wrong so the grease cap is not the drive plate) On mine there was no drive plate No snap rings on the CV axles Then no telling what might have been done

If you decide on aisin Hubs I can send you a set of the ones I take off for the cost of the shipping.They end up in the scrap pile other wise.

PM me

One of the first things to get changed.Despite all the claims people can`t keep the nuts tight I never seize mine with no problems.

I have no idea why every one seems to hate their hubs and winches as well I would guess.

To each there own.

reallifedog

Wyoming, any chance I could grab a pair of those hubs?

osv

you misunderstood... he didn't recommend warn, he just said to use it if you have it already.

the factory toyota stuff is better than anything warn makes for our trucks.

Smaay

i dont have any locking hubs as of yet. I sent a PM to Wyoming.



ok i have the lower so i have ADD. if I get the Asian lockers, do i need to do anything to the ADD system?

INFINITY

lol yea i did not read it correct. i feel like a dumba$$

nv4runner

You don't have to do anything to the ADD system if you don't want to.

Many people disable the ADD system so the front axle is always engaged. If you do that then there is no need for all the vacuum equipment for the front diff. Otherwise you can unbolt the drive flanges, install your manual hubs, and drive it like you want to. I run my hubs locked all winter and rely on the ADD system to function properly. During the summer I unlock them unless I get stuck or figure I'd better lock them just in case.

Search and you shall find the procedure to disable the ADD.

Smaay

im sorry im asking such noob questions. This is just all new stuff for me.

are you telling me 2 different options?

if i disable the ADD and the axle is always engaged, it will only apply power to the wheels if I use locking hubs?

what are the drive flanges?

Smaay

ok so after reading this http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...tem-19259.html

i have a better understanding of the ADD system.

I think i have 3 options:

change to manual hubs and leave the ADD alone.

change to manual hubs and force the ADD to a locked position and leave it there. I assume this is the same thing as option 3 below

change to manual hubs and find a non ADD tube and swap that in. I think I prefer this one

SacRunner

I went with the first one (replaced the ADD drive flanges with manual hubs and left the diff tube alone) for a couple of reasons...

1. My ADD was still working just fine when I added the manual hubs, so why bother with it.

2. It's extra work and extra money for something that wouldn't really benefit me; I don't go play in the rocks hard enough to worry about any strength differences between the 2 tubes.

3. I drive in the snow A LOT, and with the ADD still attached and functional, I can lock the hubs (effectively putting the front end back into the same state as it was with the drive flanges) and I don't have to worry about excessive wear as I drive down the dry highway before I hit snow, then all I need to do is shift to 4HI with no need to get out and lock the hubs (since they were already locked).

For me, I only added the manual hubs to reduce the wear and tear on my CV boots after doing the BJ spacers 8-9 years ago.

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

"change to manual hubs and find a non ADD tube and swap that in. I think I prefer this one"

Yea dude that's what I'm doing (or if said correctly....HAVE BEEN doing as my truck has been on jack stands for WAAYYY too long...a lot going on with it....)

You just have to get a new seal for the non-ADD axle tube but I bought two - one for the other side. I'll post a part number later (I'm at work). And the electrical plug that was on the ADD tube -- the two wires (both green I believe) have to be soldered together so the 4HI and 4LO light comes on when in four wheel drive. I still have to solder them and they are by the gas filter but I will cut them more to get it up into under the hood more. Let me know if you need pics. Then you can yank out the vacuum canister and associated wires under the right front wheel well. If you need help, don't be shy.

Sac Runner, in the wintertime I keep the hubs locked as I live in the hills and it usually starts dry but on top, is drifted out into the road. I hear what you are saying though. I had the Aisin hubs in first and now I'm getting rid of the ADD completely.

AdmiralYoda

I'm gonna get flamed for not searching and asking this....but why are Aisin hubs better than Warn?

Back when I was a teeny bopper I got my 87 4Runner and the automatic locking hubs were shot. My dad helped me convert them to Warn hubs.

14 years later I'm bringing it back from the dead....repacked and serviced the warn hubs was wondering if there is some specific weak point I need to be aware of.

RJR

Just about everything Aisin is better than the aftermarket substitutes (and also more expensive, new). Aisin is one of the OEM's for Toyota, so everything they make has to meet Toyota's quality standards.

Not to say Warn's aren't good, but they don't have the same R&D bucks to spend on QA that Toyota has. Plus, if you can buy used Aisins for less than a new Warn, why not do it? There's not much to wear out on a manual hub. They just get stiff with old grease in them. Spend 2 hours cleaning them up and relubing them, replace the gaskets and o-rings (which are available cheap from Toyota), give 'em a coat of paint, and they're pretty much good as new.