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What connection is this + Injector + Vacuum Related EGR Questions.
Hello all,
I am the proud owner of a 1994 4runner SR5 *3vze + A340H*.
Can anyone I.D. this plug ? It comes from behind the center of the intake. I can try and get a picture at which one is missing if it helps.
Freaking Poorly Maintained vehicle
My EGR is on the way out of the truck. I've purchased the LCE Kit to block everything off. During this process I would like to eliminate not needed vacuum hoses and clutter. From the left side of the engine to make spark plugs easier as well as room for a custom waterproof Fuse/Relay box.
I've found these photos relating to removing hoses and cleaning up the Passenger side of the engine bay.
Looks to me like intake silencer removal, charcoal canister and vdv x 2
Love how clean and simple this now makes the engine. The guy who sent me these says his truck runs great.
Diagrams for days.
So any input is appreciated greatly.
On to the injectors. My truck cab has smelt like gas recently and I noticed this little beauty.
Leaky O-Rings under the previous owner his solution was RTV or Silicone looks like.
I have the FSM detailing the removal process for the injectors and I have the current version of the flame thrower injectors on the way.
My question is what is the best way to remove the fuel from the system so I don't drench my engine in fuel from the rails.
Also I would like to know how to bleed air from the fuel system when its time.
...Can anyone I.D. this plug ? It comes from behind the center of the intake. ...
It's not a plug. I'm going to guess someone tore the head off a sensor. My best guess is the ECT sensor. Are the wires Brown-Black and Green-Blue?
Originally Posted by coffey50
... I would like to eliminate not needed vacuum hoses and clutter. ...
Well, someone ought to tell you. There are NO "not needed" vacuum hoses. It looks like the pictures you have show a truck with the PAIR, EGR, Fuel Pressure Up, A/C Idle-Up, ADD, PS Idle-Up and Evap system all chopped out. Will it run? It might. Will it be a pleasure to drive? No. Will it pass smog? I going to guess you're where they don't care, and you don't ever want to sell it to someone in a place that does. So your plan is to just poison the air you breathe.
Originally Posted by coffey50
... On to the injectors. My truck cab has smelt like gas recently and I noticed this little beauty. ... My question is what is the best way to remove the fuel from the system so I don't drench my engine in fuel from the rails.
Also I would like to know how to bleed air from the fuel system when its time. ...
I wouldn't worry too much about the gas smell; without an evap system you'll smell gas all the time no matter what the injectors are doing. But to answer your question: don't worry about drenching your engine. With that leak you don't have any pressure in the rail anyway. But even if you did, you'd only lose about 2 tablespoons of fuel removing the injectors.
And you don't bleed the fuel system; the air you put in will just get swept out the return line. It wouldn't hurt to run the fuel pump by jumpering B+ to FC for a few seconds, just to reduce your initial cranking time.
It's not a plug. I'm going to guess someone tore the head off a sensor. My best guess is the ECT sensor. Are the wires Brown-Black and Green-Blue?
Well, someone ought to tell you. There are NO "not needed" vacuum hoses. It looks like the pictures you have show a truck with the PAIR, EGR, Fuel Pressure Up, A/C Idle-Up, ADD, PS Idle-Up and Evap system all chopped out. Will it run? It might. Will it be a pleasure to drive? No. Will it pass smog? I going to guess you're where they don't care, and you don't ever want to sell it to someone in a place that does. So your plan is to just poison the air you breathe.
I wouldn't worry too much about the gas smell; without an evap system you'll smell gas all the time no matter what the injectors are doing. But to answer your question: don't worry about drenching your engine. With that leak you don't have any pressure in the rail anyway. But even if you did, you'd only lose about 2 tablespoons of fuel removing the injectors.
And you don't bleed the fuel system; the air you put in will just get swept out the return line. It wouldn't hurt to run the fuel pump by jumpering B+ to FC for a few seconds, just to reduce your initial cranking time.
Thank you for all your assistance.
I took a picture of the color wires and where it appears to plug in for you.
Looks like black & white and then green& white
Where I think it plugs in <br/>
I'll definitely take your advice on the vaccum hose and instead of elimating l simply replace the hoses.
cold start injector time switch. (wires Black-White, and Green)
The unit next to it (green-ish plastic, two broken nipples) is the Thermal Vacuum Valve (TVV).
You've got a lot on your plate, but these you can squeak by for a while. I'm going to guess your TVV is just bypassed, with the line from the Evap Canister going directly to the throttle body. That will work well, but it will run rough when cold. Which it would probably do any way now, so you don't notice it.
The without the cold start injector time switch your cold start injector won't work. Which means it will be a little harder to start when cold. You can probably live with that for a while.
cold start injector time switch. (wires Black-White, and Green)
The unit next to it (green-ish plastic, two broken nipples) is the Thermal Vacuum Valve (TVV).
You've got a lot on your plate, but these you can squeak by for a while. I'm going to guess your TVV is just bypassed, with the line from the Evap Canister going directly to the throttle body. That will work well, but it will run rough when cold. Which it would probably do any way now, so you don't notice it.
The without the cold start injector time switch your cold start injector won't work. Which means it will be a little harder to start when cold. You can probably live with that for a while.
My truck is sometimes hard to crank in the mornings. However it idles up to about 2k like the cold start injector is working properly. So because of the broken time switch. Is it reasonable for me to assume the truck is adding additional gas to the intake when not needed ?
To replace it would i just take out the broken piece replace the sensor that goes into what looks like the intake manifold ?
As far as the TVV goes I have no idea how that works. That aside is that also as theoretically simply as replacing the connector the goes into what appears to be the manifold ?
Thanks for you help as well. It's greatly appreciated
The Cold Start Injector is only powered while cranking. It has nothing to do with idle. Idle is raised when cold by the air valve in the throttle body, and by the ECM with information from the ECT sensor. I don't know why you would think the truck is adding additional gas when not needed; all gasoline engines are "supposed" to idle faster when cold (carb engines, e.g., use a choke and an idle-step.)
The Cold Start Injector Time Switch, the ECT Sensor, the TVV, the water gauge sensor, etc. all are mounted in the Water Bypass Outlet. It's a chunk of aluminum the size of your fist, that attaches TO the lower intake manifold. http://web.archive.org/web/201208130...68cylinder.pdf So yes, in theory, you can remove the broken pieces and replace them. In practice, you're going to have a tough time getting any sort of wrench in there with the Bypass Outlet still mounted to the manifold.
The Cold Start Injector is only powered while cranking. It has nothing to do with idle. Idle is raised when cold by the air valve in the throttle body, and by the ECM with information from the ECT sensor. I don't know why you would think the truck is adding additional gas when not needed; all gasoline engines are "supposed" to idle faster when cold (carb engines, e.g., use a choke and an idle-step.)
The Cold Start Injector Time Switch, the ECT Sensor, the TVV, the water gauge sensor, etc. all are mounted in the Water Bypass Outlet. It's a chunk of aluminum the size of your fist, that attaches TO the lower intake manifold. http://web.archive.org/web/201208130...68cylinder.pdf So yes, in theory, you can remove the broken pieces and replace them. In practice, you're going to have a tough time getting any sort of wrench in there with the Bypass Outlet still mounted to the manifold.
Thanks for the information.
If the cold start injector only works when cranking. What purpose does the cold start injector time switch serve ?
The time switch keeps the CSI from turning on when the engine is warm. Second, it limits the time ("Time Switch") the CSI is open if, for instance, you crank for a long time. Otherwise the injector could flood the engine.
The time switch keeps the CSI from turning on when the engine is warm. Second, it limits the time ("Time Switch") the CSI is open if, for instance, you crank for a long time. Otherwise the injector could flood the engine.
I know the 22 motor better but not so much the 3.0 but basically they use the same principals. I have yet to have a bad Cold Start Injector, but the Timing Switch is what has failed when I have had an issue with cold starting. Sometime just giving them a cleaning will get them working again as they get a hard water build up on them. Just wanted to add that since you were on the subject.
I know the 22 motor better but not so much the 3.0 but basically they use the same principals. I have yet to have a bad Cold Start Injector, but the Timing Switch is what has failed when I have had an issue with cold starting. Sometime just giving them a cleaning will get them working again as they get a hard water build up on them. Just wanted to add that since you were on the subject.
02-17-2016, 11:07 AM
What connection is this + Injector + Vacuum Related EGR Questions.
