Warped rear hub
#1
Warped rear hub
How's it going yota community?
It's been a while since I have posted here. Grad school is keeping me busy and I can't really work on my 1986 4Runner. I recently got the rear brakes replaced (drums, shoes, and cylinder), and there has been significant rubbing on the passenger side. It smokes after a 3 mile drive. The shop that did the job said that the brakes are adjusted correctly so they checked the whole assembly and it turns out that the hub is warped. I have no idea how this happened but it might explain why previously the wheel was wobbly on the highway! Ooops. Well, what would be my best bet on getting a new hub? The only salvage yard here doesn't look promising and a brand new hub, bearing, seal, etc is crazy expensive (oem seems to be 800 for the shaft and hub).
What would ya'll recommend? If there is a part online, I'm sure as hell not seeing it.
Much obliged yotatech
It's been a while since I have posted here. Grad school is keeping me busy and I can't really work on my 1986 4Runner. I recently got the rear brakes replaced (drums, shoes, and cylinder), and there has been significant rubbing on the passenger side. It smokes after a 3 mile drive. The shop that did the job said that the brakes are adjusted correctly so they checked the whole assembly and it turns out that the hub is warped. I have no idea how this happened but it might explain why previously the wheel was wobbly on the highway! Ooops. Well, what would be my best bet on getting a new hub? The only salvage yard here doesn't look promising and a brand new hub, bearing, seal, etc is crazy expensive (oem seems to be 800 for the shaft and hub).
What would ya'll recommend? If there is a part online, I'm sure as hell not seeing it.
Much obliged yotatech
#2
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Dorman makes an axle shaft; RockAuto carries it for less than $200, but when I checked that only have the right side shaft.
Of course, we're all concerned about a shop that replaced the brakes but missed a shaft (supposedly) so warped it should have been a) easy to see and b) would have shown up in a test drive.
Of course, we're all concerned about a shop that replaced the brakes but missed a shaft (supposedly) so warped it should have been a) easy to see and b) would have shown up in a test drive.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
How's it going yota community?
It's been a while since I have posted here. Grad school is keeping me busy and I can't really work on my 1986 4Runner. I recently got the rear brakes replaced (drums, shoes, and cylinder), and there has been significant rubbing on the passenger side. It smokes after a 3 mile drive. The shop that did the job said that the brakes are adjusted correctly so they checked the whole assembly and it turns out that the hub is warped. I have no idea how this happened but it might explain why previously the wheel was wobbly on the highway! Ooops. Well, what would be my best bet on getting a new hub? The only salvage yard here doesn't look promising and a brand new hub, bearing, seal, etc is crazy expensive (oem seems to be 800 for the shaft and hub).
What would ya'll recommend? If there is a part online, I'm sure as hell not seeing it.
Much obliged yotatech
It's been a while since I have posted here. Grad school is keeping me busy and I can't really work on my 1986 4Runner. I recently got the rear brakes replaced (drums, shoes, and cylinder), and there has been significant rubbing on the passenger side. It smokes after a 3 mile drive. The shop that did the job said that the brakes are adjusted correctly so they checked the whole assembly and it turns out that the hub is warped. I have no idea how this happened but it might explain why previously the wheel was wobbly on the highway! Ooops. Well, what would be my best bet on getting a new hub? The only salvage yard here doesn't look promising and a brand new hub, bearing, seal, etc is crazy expensive (oem seems to be 800 for the shaft and hub).
What would ya'll recommend? If there is a part online, I'm sure as hell not seeing it.
Much obliged yotatech
#5
Yes, the axle shaft and bearing press together into the hub. It can be very difficult to do without proper tools and knowledge. They sell lots of bearing kits for the rear on these trucks. LCengineering has some nice kits. Bearing, seals, compression sleeve, axle shaft. Perhaps change your differential oil while your at it.
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Ok I am confused just what are you calling the hub on the rear axle?
I have no idea how anything bent or warped back there would make the brake smoke . It is the brake smoking giving off that smell of cooked brake lining or is it something else??
If the backing plate is bent so bad but then it would have been a fight getting the old drum off.Then have been quite easy to see
Brake adjusted to tight or bell crank seized in the bell crank bracket
You have the bearing retainer that bolts to the axle tube that the bearing is pressed into .
If this was not a problem with your old brakes why after it was worked on is it now a problem??
Very Interesting !!!
I have no idea how anything bent or warped back there would make the brake smoke . It is the brake smoking giving off that smell of cooked brake lining or is it something else??
If the backing plate is bent so bad but then it would have been a fight getting the old drum off.Then have been quite easy to see
Brake adjusted to tight or bell crank seized in the bell crank bracket
You have the bearing retainer that bolts to the axle tube that the bearing is pressed into .
If this was not a problem with your old brakes why after it was worked on is it now a problem??
Very Interesting !!!
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#8
So the way that I understand it is that the flat part where the drum and wheel are mounted (on the 6 studs) is warped so it is no longer flush. This causes the wheel (and therefore the drum) to wobble which, with new brakes and tight clearance, causes rub. It is definitely brake rub, with all the associated smells. The theory as to why it wasn't a problem before is the suspect wheel cylinder I replaced last year. I had brake and/or diff fluid on the same wheel last year so I decided to replace the wheel cylinder and the axle seal. I used a "Doorman" part on it, which was way smaller than the stock Toyota cylinder. I had not so great break feel despite several bleeds. I drove from Wyoming to North Dakota (not a great idea) on it for school. Well, the cylinder blew probably from having to engage soo far. I'm guessing that the brake shoes never self adjusted to a tighter clearance due to two different wheel cylinders.
Word to the wise: never, ever, replace just one cylinder on one side, especially if they are different spec. Heck, if you're dealing with brakes, just replace the parts on each side anyways.
See how the backing plate, and what I call the 'hub' are two different mounting spots? Well the 'hub' portion where the drum and wheel mounts was definitely warped.
Kiroshu, would this bearing kit suffice? http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/rear-...rvice-kit.html
Also, Skypilot, what would you want for one of those axle assemblies?
Word to the wise: never, ever, replace just one cylinder on one side, especially if they are different spec. Heck, if you're dealing with brakes, just replace the parts on each side anyways.
See how the backing plate, and what I call the 'hub' are two different mounting spots? Well the 'hub' portion where the drum and wheel mounts was definitely warped.
Kiroshu, would this bearing kit suffice? http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/rear-...rvice-kit.html
Also, Skypilot, what would you want for one of those axle assemblies?
Last edited by WyoWill; 05-03-2015 at 07:44 AM.
#11
That kit has everything you need it looks like.
Usually the axle seals never leak unless the bearing or the axle have failed.
Replace axle shaft assembly, bearing, seals, ect.
Usually the axle seals never leak unless the bearing or the axle have failed.
Replace axle shaft assembly, bearing, seals, ect.
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