temp gauge fluctuating
#1
temp gauge fluctuating
Truck always ran at 1/4 marker on temp gauge. Recently its been going up to 3/4 stay for a minute, down to 1/2, fluxuate between 1/2 and 1/4. I replaced the thermostat with 180 ome from toyota. Filled up radiator. Does this sound like air in the system? or a belt? If it was the water pump, I imagine I would be leaking. I am not loosing any fluid. There is no performance differnences and no noises. I'm stumped.
#2
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there could be a big air bubble in her what you gotta do is jack the front up and then let her run untill all the air comes out let the t-stat open a few times as you put in more coolant and then you should be good to go
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Hi, another 'trick' is to leave the radiator cap off overnight and the air will finds it's way out providing the truck is facing uphill or jacked up.
p.s. Leave the rad cap on the driver's seat so you don't forget to re-fit it.
p.s. Leave the rad cap on the driver's seat so you don't forget to re-fit it.
#5
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I have replaced all belts, thermistat, lifted truck and tried the air thing. Went to pep boys and got a clutch assembly which looks like a joke. When holding them side by side the ome is jucst clearly beefier. The old one feels stronger then the new one, so I didn't replace it. But now that eveything is back together it is still running hot. I can hold the clutch fan still with my hand while the engine in running hot. This isn't right, correct? I should not be able to stick my hand in there while it is running and hold it, correct?
A couple other things, both hoses are good, no colapses or pinholes. Radiator cap has not been replaced, but I dont think that would do it. I dont think the impellors on th pump are bad because I am getting good flow.
So I guess my question is should I replace the clutch assembly? Any other thoughts are welcome . Thanks !
I have replaced all belts, thermistat, lifted truck and tried the air thing. Went to pep boys and got a clutch assembly which looks like a joke. When holding them side by side the ome is jucst clearly beefier. The old one feels stronger then the new one, so I didn't replace it. But now that eveything is back together it is still running hot. I can hold the clutch fan still with my hand while the engine in running hot. This isn't right, correct? I should not be able to stick my hand in there while it is running and hold it, correct?
A couple other things, both hoses are good, no colapses or pinholes. Radiator cap has not been replaced, but I dont think that would do it. I dont think the impellors on th pump are bad because I am getting good flow.
So I guess my question is should I replace the clutch assembly? Any other thoughts are welcome . Thanks !
Last edited by Evil.Dingo; 12-21-2008 at 09:30 AM.
#7
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bump
I have replaced all belts, thermistat, lifted truck and tried the air thing. Went to pep boys and got a clutch assembly which looks like a joke. When holding them side by side the ome is jucst clearly beefier. The old one feels stronger then the new one, so I didn't replace it. But now that eveything is back together it is still running hot. I can hold the clutch fan still with my hand while the engine in running hot. This isn't right, correct? I should not be able to stick my hand in there while it is running and hold it, correct?
A couple other things, both hoses are good, no colapses or pinholes. Radiator cap has not been replaced, but I dont think that would do it. I dont think the impellors on th pump are bad because I am getting good flow.
So I guess my question is should I replace the clutch assembly? Any other thoughts are welcome . Thanks !
I have replaced all belts, thermistat, lifted truck and tried the air thing. Went to pep boys and got a clutch assembly which looks like a joke. When holding them side by side the ome is jucst clearly beefier. The old one feels stronger then the new one, so I didn't replace it. But now that eveything is back together it is still running hot. I can hold the clutch fan still with my hand while the engine in running hot. This isn't right, correct? I should not be able to stick my hand in there while it is running and hold it, correct?
A couple other things, both hoses are good, no colapses or pinholes. Radiator cap has not been replaced, but I dont think that would do it. I dont think the impellors on th pump are bad because I am getting good flow.
So I guess my question is should I replace the clutch assembly? Any other thoughts are welcome . Thanks !
It depends on whether or not the motor was hot enough to engage the fan clutch.
Search the forum on temp guage overshoot......see if that doesn't sound like your issue.
Otherwise, the vehicle's not overheating, right?
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#9
There is not fluid in the reservoir. I changed the cap, no changein temps.
There is a slight sound of a whistle like a mini flax fan goin on after putting the hew belts on.
I'm wondering if the impelor blades are worn down where it pushe fine slow but not fast?
If it is the water pump, should I replace the timing chain as well?
Thanks
There is a slight sound of a whistle like a mini flax fan goin on after putting the hew belts on.
I'm wondering if the impelor blades are worn down where it pushe fine slow but not fast?
If it is the water pump, should I replace the timing chain as well?
Thanks
#10
Registered User
K well I lose coolant right, I dont fill up the radiator, i just fill up the resivior, if you have an air buble, it will go into the resiviour and suck coolant in there to compensate for the volume...
thus being said, since you already changed the thermo, fill that resivoiterwiuiw? up and see what happens...
thus being said, since you already changed the thermo, fill that resivoiterwiuiw? up and see what happens...
#11
Thanks, I'll try that. On my way to work, I tried a few things. When the heater is slid to off, it runs normaly, when the heater is on, it is running hotter. Any thoughts on that. Thanks
#12
Registered User
Gah, Im having same said issue...
My suggestion...Keep the heater off ?
umm seriously though...I heard that could be a thermostat problem...but if you just changed it that then wtf....
My suggestion...Keep the heater off ?
umm seriously though...I heard that could be a thermostat problem...but if you just changed it that then wtf....
#13
Could the thermo be bad out of the box? Anyone ever experience that? The reason I didn't think it was thermo was beacuse of no change but if it was bad out of box that would explain it. I might stop by Auto Zone and try another one.
Scuba, you said you expeirenced the same thing, or did I missunderstand you?
Thanks
Scuba, you said you expeirenced the same thing, or did I missunderstand you?
Thanks
#14
What apparently happens is that the water coming out of the heater is below the thermostat operating temperature and it prevents the thermostat from opening. The official Toyota solution to this problem appears to be a two stage thermostat (a thermostat on a thermostat) which will partially open at a lower than normal temperature. Alternatively, a small hole can be drilled in the thermostat to allow a little folw prior to opening.
There is a very nice discussion of this on 4crawer.com, but I can't get the site up right now. Try this http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml He lists the Toyota part number
There is a very nice discussion of this on 4crawer.com, but I can't get the site up right now. Try this http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml He lists the Toyota part number
#15
Registered User
No misunderstanding, The other morning coolant was full, Again, I do lose coolant due to a bad gasket, NOT HG...So, I knew the coolant was full, But it was the first time i have ever ran the heater in the 14 months ive owned the truck...
Although coolant was full it could have needed a burp, but if the reiviour was full and it was, It would have pulled the coolant from resivoir due to needing more for the heater core...Yet, It still heated up to 1/2 then back down to like, 1/3 or my NOT
Thus being said, the Thermo could be bad outta the box but unlikely, You could do a self test...google thermostat test and itll tell you something aboot boiling it and watching to see the valve open..
Did you have your resiviour filled up..?
Although coolant was full it could have needed a burp, but if the reiviour was full and it was, It would have pulled the coolant from resivoir due to needing more for the heater core...Yet, It still heated up to 1/2 then back down to like, 1/3 or my NOT
Thus being said, the Thermo could be bad outta the box but unlikely, You could do a self test...google thermostat test and itll tell you something aboot boiling it and watching to see the valve open..
Did you have your resiviour filled up..?
#16
#17
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^^^^That's what I was talking about. Common problem on the 22re. Search.
Drilling a small hole in the thermostat..............3/16"......will do the same as the dual stage thermo. Worked for me..........and others.
Oh, and fill that reservoir....
Drilling a small hole in the thermostat..............3/16"......will do the same as the dual stage thermo. Worked for me..........and others.
Oh, and fill that reservoir....
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ashamsuddin
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01-13-2023 03:17 AM
1987, 22re, 4runner, erratic, fluctuating, fluxuating, fuluctuating, gauge, guage, tacoma, temp, temperature, temperture, toyota, truck