Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks SCToy - will search for that post.

So, seat the rotor and bearings, tighten the 54mm nut to (??ft/lbs), then rotate rotor a few times, torque again, rotate other way, torque again until it's pretty uniform? Then do the pre load test with the spring scale to see if it's correct? Do I do that with hubs locked or free?

SCToy

Sorta, you can use the fish scales, but his method will get you in the ball park with much less frustration.
Torque 42 ft-lbs, rotate left/ right several times. Loosen until its barely snug, rotate. Repeat that twice
Then torque to 21. Use star washer, torque second hut to 11ft-lbs. confirm in post, thats from memory.
Do it with hubs unlocked

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Slowly but surely I’m getting this done. I was able to borrow a 54mm socket from my buddy at work, Harbir (Hgill here) this week, so I could do the pre load on the wheel bearings. I bled the brake system last week, thanks to my new Motive power bleeder – that thing is AWESOME.

I decided to outline the process for doing pre load adjustment/taking off the hub parts to access the rotor or bearings, with photos, since my 87 auto locking hubs seem to be a lot different from all the videos and DIY guides I found online. If you see something wrong here, feel free to correct it so I don’t mislead anyone

Here’s the FSM page (from an 88 4runner) outlining the various parts of the hub assembly:




Remove the six 5mm allen bolts that hold the hub cover on:


Here it is. Note there is a thin gasket the shape of the hub – you can re use it but be gentle with it:


Remove the six 12mm nuts, washers, and cone washers underneath the hub cover:



Here is the hub now:

Remove the 12mm bolt and washer in the middle – I just gave it a couple good, quick tugs to the left – it’s not that hard to get out:




Gently pull off the hub body – slides right out:



Use snap ring pliers (I had to end up using a flathead and needle nose eventually…this one is tough) to remove the snap ring;




Remove the thrust washer (?) that sits under the snap ring you just removed – it’s made to slip over the splines on the spindle so just gently back it out with your fingernails or a very gentle, small flathead:

Remove the larger snap ring around the “Brake drum” assembly:



Now, using a flathead, gently pry the brake “shoe” plastic assembly out of the brake drum metal assembly. There are two notches – one at 12:00 and one at 6:00 – alternate (gentle!) prying top and bottom, so that you eventually back the plastic piece out of the metal one – it’s a snug fit!




(Take note of those two metal ends of the spring inside – they’re going to need to be aligned with the tab on the hub body when you put it back together)


Here is where we sit now. Note the torx screw heads showing through all the grease; these come out next.




Remove the torx screws (driver’s side had 3, passenger had 2, so I don’t know how many are SUPPOSED to be there – I think 2 is enough since it’s just holding the adjusting nut in place, and is covered by the brake shoe.




Slide out the brake drum once the torx screws are removed:




Now, remove the adjusting nut – this is the 54mm big boy. Mine was actually pretty easy to remove by hand, but if not, bust out the socket and go to town:





NOW….at this point, if you’re tearing it down to get to the wheel bearing, or remove the rotor, you’re ready to. For rotor removal, make sure your caliper is already removed. Then, grab the rotor at each side, and gently tug away from the truck – it should start coming loose, and then eventually off. Careful – it will bring the bearing along with it, so watch for that bearing to fall out! Here are some photos of the bearing, and the spindle with the bearing removed:






OK, now we’re picking up where we left off – doing the bearing pre load (this is the job I was doing since I had neglected to when I first buttoned everything up earlier – I didn’t drive on it like this!!).

To do the pre load adjustment on the bearing, we’ll start where we had the exposed adjusting nut on the spindle, and get that 54mm socket on it. I followed ToySpearo’s guide on quick and easy preload adjustment:

• Torque spindle nut (adjusting nut) to 43 ft. lbs.
• Spin hub right 4-5 rotations (yes, this is correct. Take your two hands and literally spin the hub to the right 4-5 rotations.... then-
• Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
• Loosen inner spindle nut (same nut)
• Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
• Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
• Torque spindle nut (same nut again) to 43 ft. lbs.
• Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
• Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
• Loosen inner spindle nut (again the same nut)
• Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
• Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
• Torque spindle nut (still the same nut) to ~21 ft. lbs.



Once you’ve done the pre load and torqueing of your adjusting nut, it’s time to lock it in place. Other DIYs showed a “star washer” where you bent tabs up/down to hold the 54mm adjusting nut in place – Mine didn’t have that! Instead, you simply line up 2 (or 3 if you have them) of the 9 holes in the bezel of the brake drum with the 6 threaded holes on the adjusting nut behind it. Amazingly, these both lined up just fine the first try – you just need to be able to see through all the grease! Note that the drum only slides on one way to the spindle – there is a groove at 12:00 you need to align with.



Now, gently but firmly slide in the brake shoe – there are 2
tabs on the show and 2 corresponding gaps in the drum – they are not the same size – the top ones are larger, so make sure you line them up! It’s a snug fit and it’s plastic, so be patient. You’re done when it’s flush with the outside of the drum.



Then, put the larger snap ring on to keep the shoe in the drum.



OK, remember when I mentioned the 2 metal ends of the spring inside the shoe? Look at the inside of your hub assembly and you’ll see a ring, with 2 notches – each of these notches must go over the end of one of these spring ends. The hub body only slides on one way – look for the pilot holes/studs to align…so make sure you take a good look at the hub body and the assembly to ensure these parts line up – the hub assembly won’t slide on it these aren’t aligned.

Install the 12mm bolt onto the spindle. Torque to 13 ft/lbs.

Once the hub body is on, install the cone washers, regular washers, and nuts (in that order. You may want to put some anti seize on them for next time. Torque to 23 ft/lbs.

Install your hub outer cover and gasket – torque to 7 ft/lbs.

That’s it!


One thing I noticed at the end of this job (took me about 2.5 hours because let’s face it, this is my first time and I took a lot of photos ) was that I had 2 sets of bolts to mount the outer hub cover. One set of 6 threaded in just fine (The 5mm allen ones). The other were longer bolts with hexagonal heads, and a different thread/pitch. I really don’t know how this happened, as I did this all in the same setting, and used the same magnetic tray for my parts. I’m going to the hardware store today to match up the bolts that DO fit and get more to finish up – then road testing tonight I hope!

Thanks everyone for the help along the way

Phil

hgill

Looks great Phil. I hope it all works out great and the truck is back on the road soon. I too cant wait to finish my headgasket job.

SCToy

Weird, that is way different from my 81 and my 95. Both were virtually identical.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, This is nothing at all like the DIYs I've been searching the past month or so in preparation for this job - luckily I have the FSM to help guide me, and took LOTS of photos. I hope I'm doing it right LOL. Was a little worried about there only being one adjustment nut, but looking at the mechanism used to keep it in place, it seems pretty solid.

The 6 missing allen bolts also puzzle me. It's like they were in the tray, then magically turned into similar sized, wrong-threaded bolts during the repair

Looking forward to road testing this guy and bedding the new brakes - though it just started POURING RAIN today and will for the next 4 days.