ben@g2g

Well, I didn't get too much further, but I pulled the intake tube last night. Wasn't planning on removing the intake manifold, but looks like I might need to so I can clean it. =(

ben@g2g

So I had a couple hours today to start the tear down and found some interesting things. First off, there is no 'hidden' bolt between the head and the timing cover. I dunno if there ever was, or if when they replaced the head last year they didn't put it back in. That explains some of the oil leak. Second, out of all the timing cover bolts i've removed so far(a/c bracket, p/s bracket, etc.) they have been really loose. Almost hand tight. Guessing that is the cause of the oil leak on the rest of the front of the engine. Also the top of the drivers side chain guide is broken off. Maybe another casualty of the head change? Anyway, is it possible that the TC Cover isn't cracked or wore through, and the water is just leaking into the oil because all the TCC bolts were loose?

Another issue is I used the starter to loosen the crank bolt, after it was set to TDC and the distributor was removed. Spun a little more than I wanted it too so i had to turn the crank to get the crank and cam both pointing up again. How else do I verify it is TDC without the distributor? I'm thinking I might be 180 off now.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Look into the #1 piston and make sure it is at the top of it's stroke. The cam gear markings and the crank markings should line up as well. When looking at the motor it should be obvious. Also you can stab the distributor again to see if it lines up at tdc. I usually check three areas to make sure when tearing apart the 22r. 1 the distributor 2 the cam gear 3 the crank. Just put the distributor back in and check. Take the timing cover off and inspect it. Post some pics when you do. I still think your only problem is the crappy timing chain and cracked cover.

binky_rutledge

Whoa whats up with all the oil in the manifold/throttle body! Is that from blow by or what?!

ben@g2g

I assume since there was 3.5 gallons of oil/water in the crankcase that it came in through the vent lines in the valve cover.

ben@g2g

Well got the Timing cover off, and half of the oil pan bolts off. The drivers side guide was broke further down where you couldn't see until I got the cover off. Pretty deep grooves in the cover, and it looks like there is a tiny hairline crack, maybe half inch long by the water pump. I have a feeling that's what started everything, and then when I torqued the bolts down for the WP it messed up the TC cover gaskets too. Since all the timing cover bolts seemed only hand tight. All the oil pan bolts I've taken out so far have been pretty loose too. The chain seems loose to me, but not sure. Also the bolt that is on the top of the oil pump, right underneath the timing marks was worn on the end, and you can see where the chain was rubbing on it and wore a shiny edge on the chain, and a groove in the bolt. Guess that should have been a shorter bolt.

Anyone know what size the bolt that goes between the head and the TC cover is? I need to get one of those, and also I need a bolt or nut and stud for the far left water pump bolt.

Gonna start loosening the motor mounts to see if I can get the pan off.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

So it looks like a timing job simple as that. Take your time and make sure to do it right. Keep documenting and ask questions along the way.

ben@g2g

Got the oil pan off and started cleaning it up today. Tons of chain guide pieces in pan. Still need to get a new water pump bolt, a new bolt from head to timing cover, and a few gaskets I don't have before I start putting it back together.

92dlxman

.. . . . since you had a bolt that was wrong, i would assume that they are all wrong. try and verify which bolt goes where in the cover, im sure you noticed that many are different lengths

92dlxman

i was going to say too that you dont have to lift the motor to remove the pan. . . . .too late lol. if i remember correctly i just dropped my front diff, idler arm from frame, and steering dampner. that did put a lot of the fipg that was meant for sealing the pan on my hands during re-installation though

if the time and money are available, a new headgasket/bolts would go a long way seeing as to how half arse the truck looks so far. that would also guarantee new intake/exhaust gaskets ntm proper torque specs lol

ben@g2g

I'm probably not going to remove the head. I'm a little worried about the gasket sealing because it is coated with oil on both sides, but should leak way less than it did before, if at all. Once I get those new bolts I should be able to start putting it back together. I will double check, and make sure none of the others are in the wrong spot. I put the bolts in the new timing cover as I removed them, so I would know where they go.

ben@g2g

Anyone have a part number or name for the 2 gaskets for the water lines that bolt to the back of the TC cover? I see they come with the head gasket kit, but can't find them separately anywhere.

Also my valve cover gasket came with the grommets and halfmoons as expected, plus 2 flat rectangular gaskets. What are they for? I thought intake manifold, but I don't think they'd line up.

ben@g2g

After cleaning up a little bit and looking around I realized that the 2 water lines that connect to the back of the TC Cover use the TCC gaskets. So no need for those. Also figured out the 3 bolt sizes I needed. Besides the missing 'hidden' bolt from head to TCC, I also never had the bolt that screws in from behind by the drivers side water line. Hopefully I will have a lot less leaks when this is all over!

Can anyone give me an aftermarket part number for the EFI relay under the hood? When I was pulling the efi fuse I noticed the original relay is cracked, and some of the plastic is missing.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

for what it's worth splurge and get toyota parts for your relay.

ben@g2g

Finally got around to putting it mostly back together. Fired up on the first try and idled smooth. Oil light went off right away, and I only let it idle for about a minute. Exhaust was still somking, I'm not sure how long it will take to burn all of the oil out of there and the cat. It was in the garage, and getting late so quit for the night. I can't believe this thing has been in my garage since before Christmas. Hopefully tonight I can pull it out, and let it warm up and set the timing. Then clean out the garage.

ben@g2g

I'm not sure I would have done anything different for the oil pan replacement. I guess from the options I read, I was just more comfortable with doing it this way. I just removed 4 drive shaft bolts, 3 axle mount bolts, and 4 bolts from the engine mount. I didn't need to remove the oil pickup, which I read a lot of people did if they didn't lift the motor. All in all the hardest part of all that was cleaning the 1/2 inch of caked on oil sludge that was on everything down there.

ben@g2g

Let her warm up for a while and took her for a ride last night. After about an hour running in the driveway, and a 2 minute drive I finally got her to quit smokin out of the tail pipe. No leaks anywhere I can see, and much quieter than before. Only thing is I can't set the timing. Hooked up my timing light, flashed maybe 3 times and started smoking. It's pretty old, and don't really use it too much anymore. I need to get it inspected anyway, so I'm just gonna have them check the timing. It's running pretty smooth with it set at the marks I made before taking it apart. Hope it passes emissions now that it stopped smoking. I can't believe it took almost a month to do this job.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

good for you. glad to hear it worked out.

ben@g2g

Thanks for the help along the way.