janagyjr

My alternator gave out on me. Apparently my coolant has been overflowing and spraying about in my engine compartment, all over my alternator. It is now toast (truck died getting in my driveway just a little while ago), I believe. I'm going to test the thermostat tomorrow and see if I can figure out how to test the alternator (or get a local parts store to come out). Depending on the outcome of the test, will either buy a new alternator or have the current one rebuilt.

Until then, I will be testing my thermostat (my multi-meter also can measure temp, so no problem there) in boiling water to make sure it's actuating properly. I'm fairly certain it is not or I didn't properly burp the system like I thought. Either way, this has to be settled once and for all before I do anything to the alternator. Won't make sense to fix the alternator without fixing the root cause of the problem.

Also, I think the tps is mis-adjusted from where I replaced it. Once the engine is warmed up, when I'm sitting at a light idling it'll 'rev' up from 500rpm (idle) to ~800rpm then down to 500 cyclically. If I don't start off right while it's doing that it stalls me out. I've also had some issues with acceleration since I replaced it so hopefully a simple readjustment solves that minor issue.

Other than that he drives like a dream. Engine sounds like a sewing machine, though with the idiot who put on the flowmaster, remove the catalytic converter, and didn't bolt down the O2 sensor, the exhaust makes it sound like a race car.

janagyjr

I tried charging my battery today, only to discover smoke coming from my alternator (I was doing this to move it under the carport so I could work on it tomorrow if it rains). Smoke is never good from electrical devices. I might wind up buying a new alternator (I'm going to go for a Denso brand from Rock Auto unless someone has a better suggestion) if I cannot get this one rebuilt. I did get the battery charged (unhooked the positive cable from the alternator) and the truck moved so I'm good there. If I get wifi out there I'll bring out my laptop and hook it up to the extension cord. I could take frequent pics and make updates as I work, or just listen to Pandora.

I could do the thermostat today but I'm so frustrated at the moment. I also found a hose that goes to a canister near the rear passenger side of the engine compartment. I haven't looked it up to see what it may be but I think it's for the vacuum system. Shouldn't all the hoses be hooked up to something, though? This hose just kind of hangs around and doesn't seem to go anywhere.

While I was taking the cable off the alternator I took a closer look at where all the coolant was being sprayed and the alternator, distributor, and ignition coil seem to have taken the brunt of it, but there is no obvious leak. The area around the overflow hose on the coolant reservoir (including the reservoir itself) is fairly dry by comparison. I'm not sure how to test for a pinhole leak, nor even what hoses to start examining. If ya'll cannot tell, I'm not used to doing my own mechanical work (though I've changed radiators, plugs and wires, and oil+filter before).

I'm going to take this opportunity to replace both belts in the truck, one is looking frayed and - while the other one looks fine - I'm not going to take any chances. I don't know when it was put on. This way I know I have two new belts and it is one less thing to worry about.

While the truck is driveable, I will not be moving it until I find what's causing the coolant to spray over such critical parts. Once I do, only then will I fix/replace the alternator.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

If you can get a rebuilt Denso alternator that would be good. I have gotten parts stores rebuilt ones and they were rebuilt in Mexico and poorly at that. Several mismatched screws and such. Might try to look around your local area and see if you can find a place that rebuilds them. They are out there but are getting harder to find. Most likely they will do a better job then buying a rebuilt one.

All of your hoses should be hooked up. It will be a day or two but I can post a pic of the hose to the canister if need to.

I see you are looking for a frame. You will be surprised at how easy it is to do a frame swap. Not nearly as complicated as it may seem. If you can get a frame with the axles already in it, it will make it quicker and easier. I will subscribe to this thread and when you get to that stage I can put up tips and tricks to make it easy.

The hose coming off of your water pump tends to be the original hose. I have seen it several times. I replace my hoses from the parts store with the one below. It can be cut to fit and is a direct fit over the factory hose. The hose is probably bulging where it comes off of the water pump and has a pin hole just behind the hose clamp. I have seen that a couple of times.

I use Gates Rubber hose PN# 20801, around $10. It comes is a "S" shaped form, but when you cut the lower part off, it looks identical to the orginal and has the larger opening coming off of the water pump and the smaller end for the horseshoe pipe.

Gates PN#20801, just cut off where my finger is at. A lot cheaper then the dealer.


Here it is cut to length and on. I need to get some new hose clamps to finish the job.

janagyjr

Thanks, I assumed all hoses should be hooked up, I just cannot find where this one goes, I'll be taking pictures of it soon (I'm about to get dressed and go outside, no rain today woohoo). I'll bring my laptop with me for quick updates.

As for the hose in question, I'll have to disconnect the assembly going from the air filter to the throttle body to get a better look. That sounds like a reasonable diagnosis given the location and everything else. I'm still going to check the thermostat, though. At this point it wouldn't hurt and I have to drain the coolant anyway.

I do have an alternator rebuild place near me, I just need to call them before I begin working on the truck. If the price is right I'm going to drop it off today and pick it up once I get some money in (sometimes I hate being self-employed).

Zach99SR5

I have a 1999 4Runner 2wd V6; Rough idle, only when Warm. Cold idle has no problems (live in LA so, Cool odle!)... OBD read 0300 and 0301, multille misfire and misfire cylinder#1. I am still having the rough idle after doing all of the following:
Replace Cyl#1 Coil, wireset and all 6 plugs. Improved all around performance, but not the idle issue.
Then Replaced PCV Valve and thoroughly cleaned MAF sensor, Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, intake hoses and Throttle body. Truck running GREAT, but still have the rough idle when warm. I dont have any way of testing the new coil...

Could I have a BAD, New, Coil? Or what should attempt next? Fuel injector and new IAC valve are a little expensive to NOT be sure of a fix.

janagyjr

Welcome to YT, though I don't know the answer to your question.

You'll definitely want to search the forums and/or start your own thread though.

janagyjr

The first picture is of the hose and the canister it goes to.

The second is the crap work done by the 'mechanic' who put the new water pump on. You can imagine how unhappy I am about that.

I will be double checking all the bolts on that now. I'm also now planning on a new oil pan gasket due to the look of it from that picture.

Still working on getting to the hose to inspect it, but I'm almost there. Just taking breaks while I photograph my evidence and share with you guys. Also gives me an excuse to go find lunch.

janagyjr

I wound up having to tighten up all the bolts - except for the 12mm one - on the water pump, but in my exuberance I snapped one of the 10mm bolts off. I will have to get a bolt extractor to remove and then replace the bolt. Yeah, that was brilliant.

On the other hand, I did accomplish something of note.

I cleaned off the brown and green temperature sensor. Both were filthy. I also took the thermostat out to test it but, after looking at the gasket, decided to just replace it while I have it off.

I got the alternator off with no problem, the swing bolt (my name, it's the long bolt with a nut on the other end) was finger loose.

No one else is ever working on my truck again, period. I am absolutely furious over these two issues (loose bolts on water pump and loose alternator).

Uploading a bunch of picks to my photo gallery.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Zach99sr5...I have a Actron scanner and it wasn't showing the codes of 300 or 301. Is there a letter in front of the numbers like P B U? I have a 3.4 and they are some great motors but luckily I haven't had to work on mine, just the basic maintainance. The only 3.4 person I know of on here is habanero. I would go thru her thread and see if she has some information or a repair that she has done on hers. She knows the 3rd gens well. I wouldn't even try to compete with her on the 3rd gens, she would eat my lunch, leaving me dazed and confused trying to figure out what happened. There are other 3.4 gurus on here but she is the one that I follow, I just don't know who they are.

Read thru some of the 3rd gen build threads and you will find some really helpful people on there that will have a ton of information and probably knows what is the problem. Some in the build sections don't hang out on the home page, but when you start following their threads or ask them will do their best in getting your problem solved. The build section is like a whole another side of Yotatech. Some real helpful people there.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have seen some shoddy work even from mechanics that make a living at it. Any bolt on the timing cover can easily be snapped. It doesn't take much. These are some easy motors to work on and for the most part basic maintaince is easy to do. Just takes a few times of taking it apart and putting it back together and you learn the little tricks to getting them fixed fast.

Zach99SR5

Both I had were P... P0300 & P0301

janagyjr

I'm sure, anyone can do shoddy work but two things like this? While the loose bolt on the alternator isn't that grievous, the loose water pump is probably the cause of the coolant spraying. No bulging hoses anywhere to be found.

Do you have any idea what that canister and the loose hose is for? I still don't even know where to start looking in the Chilton's manual for some answers (or where to start my google search).

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I will be home in a couple of hours and look at it and see. I have seen that hose, just cant think of where it goes. I can get a picture of it as well.

scope103

The answers to all questions are in The Good Book.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...17evaporat.pdf

The "loose" hose is to admit atmospheric air into the bottom of the canister as the engine is sucking the vapors out through the TVV.

Zach99SR5

I started a thread about my problem here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/9...m-only-277890/

The codes I have are P0300 & P0301.

janagyjr

Ah, so it not being hooked up is okay. Well, that's a relief. Seems it would be good to have a filter on it, too, though.

janagyjr

Since I had nothing else to do to my truck today, checked out the thermostat. Did not actuate by 190F and if I'm not mistaken it is supposed to open at 180F. In the trash it goes.

Any recommendations?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I went to the dentist after work and am just getting back on the hose and scope103 had it correct.

On the thermostat I get mine at the dealer. There are a few parts I get at a parts store but not many. The thermostat is reasonable at the dealer. You hear some call it the stealership and in some cases they are expensive. A lot of other factory parts can be found on different sites for the same price as the parts store.

You will find Toyota uses several different suppliers and their quality really is better then what the aftermarket provides. For example I get my Denso wires off of ebay for $25 shipped, the same wires at Toyota was $83 when I priced them. Part stores top shelf brands cost about $25 but I have had problems with the wires staying on the caps.

janagyjr

Yeah, I wasn't impressed when a dealership told me new calipers for the truck were going to be $500 a piece. I haven't called them back since but I might on this. What about the alternator? If I get Denso (is Nippondenso the same thing?) would that be the same as if I went to a dealer? If so, I can get a reman Nippondenso for under $70 (not including tax and core) under the brand name Ultima (or should I just get the more expensive new Denso from Rock?)

janagyjr

Stealership no doubt. $195.48 for a reman alternator w/ exchange (they don't have any new ones period apparently). The thermostat is actually competitive with the parts store ($19.70 for thermostat, $4.03 for gasket).