Amos Elam

I have a 94 Toyota pickup 4wd v6 and I recently broke a stud putting the front tire back on after replacing from shocks. To easily remove the cone washers on the hub, is there a size bolt I can use to screw into the hub and pop the cone washers out?

MudHippy

Not sure what you mean. Pretty sure the answer's no.

Amos Elam

Right here.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Don`t know if that will work .

But the threads would be either M8x1.25 or M10x1.25

That looks new they should pop right out!!

I use a Air Hammer to take them out the first time.

I never saw I drive plate with a cap like that.

Amos Elam

Thanks, I suspected 8. Why else are those threads on the hub? I'm just a young vet trying to save some dough, don't know a whole heckuva lot mechanic wise.

scope103

The cone washers will lock down on load, so if they aren't ready to come out, pushing the mounting plate out (by screwing a bolt in) might cause them to lock.

Usually, you can convince them it's time to come out be gently smacking the side of the hub with a plastic-faced hammer. Or a piece of firewood if you're desperate. They'll rattle free, and you might need a piece of wire to hook-'em out.

d-wood

I just got mine out with a brass drift. What I did was unscrew my bolts so there flush on the end and whack each one. Don't just stay on one bolt but move around.

Toyotalove

D-Wood is correct. A brass drift and a hammer with the nut backed out flush with the end of the stud works for sure.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I like my Air Hammer method.

Spray them good with Kroil let soak hit the side of the hub every thing pops right off.

Throw the cone washers away install new Warn Hubs!!

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

Using an 8mm bolt will work great and super easy. Thread two bolts in evenly until the drive flange starts to separate from the wheel hub body. Once there is a bit of gap (1/16 inch or so) remove the two 8mm bolts and tap the drive flange back against the wheel hub. The cone washers will all pop right off. Don't forget to remove the dust cap and remove the gold bolt from the end of the axle half shaft.

MudHippy

That really works? I'll be damned. I don't even remember seeing any extra bolt holes.

Why would they not mention doing it like that in the FSM though?

I do know one thing. Pressing stuff off like that doesn't always go well. And, based on previous experiences, I'm not sure I'd even try it(much less recommend it). Threads get stripped. Bolts end up pushing on things they weren't meant to push on. There's been at least a few times I've thought removing something like that was a good idea...and it wasn't.

Hint: Those types of bolt holes are generally for pulling, not pushing. As in threading in bolts for attaching a puller tool.

scope103

Maybe. But there are a pair of threaded holes in the rear brake drums, and I'm certain they are there to "push" the brake drum off by tightening bolts into those holes. Trying to "pull" the drum off with a puller would be really difficult, because it would be twisting the drum (and jamming it) rather than evenly pressing it out on both sides.

MudHippy

Yep. I've stripped those exact ones trying to do just that. And you can attach a puller to pull them evenly actually. I've got a heavy duty slide-hammer with an "axle puller" attachment that will.

Andy A

Do not have a copy of the FSM handy at the moment, but I thought I remember the way to remove those cone washers per FSM is with something like a flat blade screwdriver. There should be a slot that runs down the side of the cone washer. You take the screwdriver and place the blade on the edge of the cone washer where the slot is and give it a tap with a hammer and they pop out.


Cheers
Andy

MudHippy

Pretty sure the FSM says to tap on the ends of the bolts(studs actually) with a hammer and brass rod. Possibly worded slightly differently.

The screwdriver trick is effective...usually. Definitely one I've used before.

Andy A

Yep, sure enough MudHippy, your rememory is hell-o-better than mine. You must be a young lass!!!!! I found the info in one of the FSM's I dug up. Then once the cone washers are removed, bolts are threaded into the threaded holes that are shown in the OP's picture to seperate the flange from the hub.

So now I'm confused, because I have used the screwdriver trick before and must have read about somewhere or I would not have tried it, but for the life of me I have no clue as to where I found that info.

Cheers
Andy