Chrisnxl185

Hey Guys, I have been going through some water recently. Water level is maybe 1/4 way up the tail gate. I remember seeing some threads about extending the breather tube. Should I considering doing this mod, if so whats involved. Is there anything else i should do. 1994 4Runner SR5 V6 5spd. 31" BFG's

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drew303

http://www.sonoransteel.com/Diff_Breather_Parts.pdf

Thats all the different breathers you can get. Just get em at the dealership.

I just got some cheap hose from Home Depot, a hose clamp. Pop the cap off the breather on the dif, clamp the hose and run it up high, whever you prefer.

Some use those breathers with the barbs then use the stock breather on the other end of the hose since it has the mechanism for one-way flow.


I ran my rear into the tail light and the front dif up into the engine bay as high as i could get it.

Another thing to breathe is the distributor cap, atleast on my 22r. Theres a breather hole in it that will suck water in that is dispersed off the radiator fan.

*and to answer your question. YES you should extend the breathers on your dif.

Scenarios I have SEEN and experienced:

stock breather gets jammed with mud and debri. This will cause the outer axle seals to allow fluid to blow by which ruins the seals and causes the brakes to not function properly. Over-time the dif will lose fluid which causes even more issues. Bad dif oil, overheating, weakens everything. I had a friend that this happened to.

Water and debri can easily get into the differential when submerged. Water and mud in the differentials IS REALLY BAD!

What happens is when the differential is used (the gears are making contact, ie driving) it heats up. Friction. The oil is there to lubricate the gears and keep them relatively cool and ambient flowing air keeps the temps down. When you submerge the differential it cools rapidly causing the air inside the axle to reduce in pressure like a big vaccum. The breather has a rubber stop with a spring to keep stuff from getting "sucked" into the axle but it only works so well. Water can and will get sucked in passed the rubber stopper. Water in the dif is bad! =) When the dif re-heats the rubber stop allows air to to escape (ie, allows pressure to be released so oil isnt forced passed the next weak spot which are the axle seals).

__________________
1987 Pickup, single cab, 22R, new head, 260 cam

TG 3" SAS, rear disc brakes, chromoly rear axles, Chromoly Birfs, Tcase brake, 37x12.50R15 MT/Rs, 5.29 gears, rear Aussie Locker, front Detroit Truetrac.

drew303

you can buy a kit from Marlin crawler as well

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm#breather

scroll down

__________________
1987 Pickup, single cab, 22R, new head, 260 cam

TG 3" SAS, rear disc brakes, chromoly rear axles, Chromoly Birfs, Tcase brake, 37x12.50R15 MT/Rs, 5.29 gears, rear Aussie Locker, front Detroit Truetrac.

1eye

If you have been in any water/mud that was higher than the breathers [stock set-up]on your diffs, then change the fluids. There's a good chance that you have already gotten water into them.

Chrisnxl185

Thanks Guys, I'll definitely change the fluid. What kind should i use, probably says in my owners manual. I'm going to replace the rear coils, so ill extend the hose when i do that.
Should I do anything to the Front Differential? Change the Fluilds or Extend the breather?

drew303

yes, replace the fluid and extend the breathers on both differentials.

__________________
1987 Pickup, single cab, 22R, new head, 260 cam

TG 3" SAS, rear disc brakes, chromoly rear axles, Chromoly Birfs, Tcase brake, 37x12.50R15 MT/Rs, 5.29 gears, rear Aussie Locker, front Detroit Truetrac.

TNRabbit

Now's a good time to switch to synthetic lube in your diiffs; Redline has received good reviews on this forum...

__________________
TNRabbit
Stock '94 DLX XtraCab 4x4 5 spd, Newly Rebuilt 3VZE, 17" 2006 Alloy Wheels, 228k miles, AISIN Hub Swap
3.0 Rebuild Thread: http://www.yotatech.com/f116/crap-he...-ghost-108156/

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkers88 Like the good book says "you can give a man a Toyota and he will wheel for a year, you can teach a man Toyota and he will wheel for a lifetime." yotatech 3:16

91ToyTrck

I'm glad that someone started this thread. I was planning on doing the same thing with my truck very soon. I know there are water crossings and muddier places where we are going to start wheeling more so I want to be prepared.

fthertime666

Good post, btw if you remove your dist you will also notice at least 2 other
holes, I filled all with a blob of rtv.

__________________
US ARMY 63B, 94 toy PU, bj spacers, Downey adjustable front shock mounts, lo-pro bumps, 2in lift in the rear, 2inch BL with poly mounts, POS 22re, 4.88s with rear ARB, 33x10.5 BFG MTs, Bigrocks front and rear bumpers, Siege Engineering OBA

longhungsilver

u filled the distributor breather holes with blobs of rtv?? bad business IMO.....The dist needs holes to vent the gases that can be created during the constanting sparking...otherwise the risk of fire/explosion is greatly increased..

fthertime666

what gases are created?? Ive never heard of that.

__________________
US ARMY 63B, 94 toy PU, bj spacers, Downey adjustable front shock mounts, lo-pro bumps, 2in lift in the rear, 2inch BL with poly mounts, POS 22re, 4.88s with rear ARB, 33x10.5 BFG MTs, Bigrocks front and rear bumpers, Siege Engineering OBA

Keith B.

Usualy ozone is created in the presence of a spark...highly erosive to plastics...cap, rotor, and expensively, the signal generator. I had a SG rot out from lack of ventilation on a Land Cruiser... no spark, no go till you replace it!

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-KB-
'91 22RE Reg Cab, 4.56 w/31's, W56, BudBuilt Crossmember, Bilsteins, shell, TJM Channel bumper, otherwise stock. Engine rebuilt... Now not leaking anything.

Stomis

Just for reference there is not reason to waste money on any of these kits or new fittings. Yank your old one out put the nut in a vice and yank the top off that floats up and down. Now get some tubing and a hose clamp and clamp the tubing to the 1/4 prong left sticking out.

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87 Chevy- Flatbed, dana 44 lockright, Custom 10.5 14 bolt lockright, 36 TSL radials

91ToyTrck

still have to buy tubing and clamps right? why not just buy the kit for $20 and it's easier?

drew303

hosing and a clamp is cheap, who knows

if you got a nissan dealership nearby go get the fitting . home depot is closer imo and i've snacked a lot on the hose never come off yet =p

anyways

im not sure which holes you're referring to that you filled? I have the 22r which is a dif distributor from the 22re FYI. Theres only one hole that i know of and its on teh cap. Looks like a plug for another wire, but its not.

anyways, i clamped all the wires actually and ran a hose from that hole high up in the engine compartment.

My # problem with water crossings, even shallow as the distributor getting WET. Misfiring, sputtering and not starting is what happens when the cap and rotor get wet.

Remedy? take teh cap off, dry out and put back together and avoid more water ... or just seal it all up and run a breather =p

__________________
1987 Pickup, single cab, 22R, new head, 260 cam

TG 3" SAS, rear disc brakes, chromoly rear axles, Chromoly Birfs, Tcase brake, 37x12.50R15 MT/Rs, 5.29 gears, rear Aussie Locker, front Detroit Truetrac.

Stomis

Mine cost me like $8 front and back vs $50 or $60 front and back.

__________________
87 Chevy- Flatbed, dana 44 lockright, Custom 10.5 14 bolt lockright, 36 TSL radials

Chrisnxl185

I extended my rear breather up under the fender, it was pretty easy. With the front breather do i need a right angle nipple? The oil sump is kinda in the way. Does any have pics or suggestions for the front.

CJM

The front should already be extended, the rear wont be, makes sense b/c if you drove through a puddle bye bye front diff..

The fitting is like 6 bucks, the nissan fitting is VERY tiny in diameter, like 1/8 of an inch the yota one is better.

If you want the nissan fitting, PM me your address I still have it and dont want it.

__________________
96' T100 SR5 4x4, ISR mod, Custom ABS snorkel, KC 57's Hella optilux el cheapo backup lights. Cobra 19III CB, Firestick 4ft antenna, Bilstein shocks.

Be polite. Be professional. But, have a plan to kill everyone you meet.

4Crawler

I use 1/8" pipe thread/hose barb fittings:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Breathers

Cost under a buck at the hardware store and you can get them in most any size hose barb:


I've heard that folks pulling the cap off the stock breather have had trouble with the hose pulling off, not enough barb sticking out to grab well. So if running that setup, keep an eye on it.

__________________
1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs
r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad
Gettin'Off 4WD Club

Gold_Digger

I have read all the posts on rear diff. breathers and have installed one on my 95 4runner using the Nissan union and tubing (works great). I am looking to do the front and have read alot about limited space and the tubing hitting the oil pan. I want to eliminate this if possible. The 96 model 4runners have different differentials and a right angle union and tubing run up to the engine compartment for breathing. Does anyone know if the 96 front diff union will fit the 95 front differential????