playtoy871

i have a 94 4X4 and want to clear 33 X 12.50s. what is the cheapest way i can gain enough clearance? i don't like the idea of body lift because my rear bumper is welded to the frame.

Jay351

since body lifts are totally out of the question.
you would probibly just want to go with a 4" bracket lift.

BUT you might be able to run them with a 1.5" balljoint spacer + minor t-bar crank and rear lift to match.

my 3" body lift let me run them but I rub a TINY bit on the back side of the fender when going over bumps at full(ish) lock.

p.s you could just grind off the welds and fab new bumper brackets to match a body lift.

ewong

cheapest way to fit 33x12.5?
Front:
crank the torsions.
BFH on the front seam
dont turn the steering wheel over hard
cost = FREE


2" add a leaf or blocks or junkyard chevy springs in the rear (assumes you can weld on new brackets)
Cost = $100 or so?

IMHO will ride like poo... but you'll look cool

ovrrdrive

The cheapest way is with a Rough Country bracket lift...

Or you could save about $450 and go with a body lift. With a nerf bar or slider I don't think a body lift looks bad at all.

Bear80

The off set and width of the wheels will GREATLY dictate how well the tires clear. Usally start with low profile upper bump stops, crank the t-bars and hammer the inner fenders pinch weld.

On a stock wheel, you will have nearly zero rub. If you're using say a 8" wheel with stock off set, expect some more fender rub. The wider the wheel or more the off set, the more it will rubb the fender.

I ran a bias ply 32x12.50 on the stock wheels with no lift and no issues, zero rubb. Now these tires are still not a 33" radial but closer in size to them than a 32" radial.