Overheating Issues
09-01-2009, 01:52 PM
#21
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These hoses go to your rear heater core
Not all thermostats have this by pass hole I think only the dealer ones do .
This is your oil cooler cooled by the water from before the thermostat.
Dude just remove the thermostat for now all your old hoses are blowing because of the thermostat is bad, it looks like only the hoses on the engine side of the thermostat are blowing when it gets to hot .
Remove the thermostat you could run like that , your in a super hot place anyway.
Not all thermostats have this by pass hole I think only the dealer ones do .
This is your oil cooler cooled by the water from before the thermostat.
Dude just remove the thermostat for now all your old hoses are blowing because of the thermostat is bad, it looks like only the hoses on the engine side of the thermostat are blowing when it gets to hot .
Remove the thermostat you could run like that , your in a super hot place anyway.
Yeah, I'm changing the t-stat, and fixing the two known blown hoses. The upper and lowers look alright, and I'm on a budget provided by a 3rd party... I need to stay as cheap as possible.... I actually need to pick up some deep well sockets....( to get the nuts off the housing ) Waiting on those now, then I'll go start working on things.
Is there anything special I should try to add to it to flush out dirty content? ( rad cleaners and stuff like that? )
09-01-2009, 02:04 PM
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09-01-2009, 03:20 PM
#23
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Hey,
I'm back for a couple of minutes. I'd put in the thermostat. The computer needs the engine to be running at the designed temperature for it to go into closed loop control. That means that the engine will run in warm-up mode and use more gas. The thermostat continuously regulates the temperature and driving without it (except in a temporary emergency) is not recommended.
Drain your radiator before changing the hoses and tstat. Give it a couple of hours to get most of the old antifreeze out.
Take care,
Bugs
I'm back for a couple of minutes. I'd put in the thermostat. The computer needs the engine to be running at the designed temperature for it to go into closed loop control. That means that the engine will run in warm-up mode and use more gas. The thermostat continuously regulates the temperature and driving without it (except in a temporary emergency) is not recommended.
Drain your radiator before changing the hoses and tstat. Give it a couple of hours to get most of the old antifreeze out.
Take care,
Bugs
09-01-2009, 03:46 PM
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Hey,
I'm back for a couple of minutes. I'd put in the thermostat. The computer needs the engine to be running at the designed temperature for it to go into closed loop control. That means that the engine will run in warm-up mode and use more gas. The thermostat continuously regulates the temperature and driving without it (except in a temporary emergency) is not recommended.
Drain your radiator before changing the hoses and tstat. Give it a couple of hours to get most of the old antifreeze out.
Take care,
Bugs
I'm back for a couple of minutes. I'd put in the thermostat. The computer needs the engine to be running at the designed temperature for it to go into closed loop control. That means that the engine will run in warm-up mode and use more gas. The thermostat continuously regulates the temperature and driving without it (except in a temporary emergency) is not recommended.
Drain your radiator before changing the hoses and tstat. Give it a couple of hours to get most of the old antifreeze out.
Take care,
Bugs
Kk... started work on it.. that top bolt on the t-stat housing doesn't come out without a deepwell... so I'm stuck. Also, people keep mentioning a jiggler valve.. I've seen them on other t-stats, and everyone says to make sure that mine is on top when I put it in.. but the one that AutoZone gave me as an OEM t-stat doesn't have a jiggler valve.
AZ Part number = 15038
Last edited by QuickPaws; 09-01-2009 at 04:07 PM. Reason: AutoZone t-stat part number
09-01-2009, 04:38 PM
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As an update.... looks like that hose is a special order only, or get from dealer ship.... and of course the parts department just closed.
no oil, tranny fluid, or other oddities in coolant either.. everything I flushed came out clear.. just some corrosion build up....
no oil, tranny fluid, or other oddities in coolant either.. everything I flushed came out clear.. just some corrosion build up....
09-01-2009, 04:46 PM
#27
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You dont have to get the dealer one it, yes it would fit better but dont have to get it just get the same size from Autozone cut to length kind of hose.
09-01-2009, 06:42 PM
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If I do the cut to length hose, I presume I should add extra length to allow for more flex to allow for a lesser chance of kinking?
Also, anything about that t-stat not having a jiggler... I've searched, but all I can find in the forums is people mentioning that it's important for the jiggler to be on top....so I'm presuming that this has to be a incorrect t-stat.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...PartType=C0331
That's also in my price range, and they have it in store...AZ is special order, and the dealership is gonna be pricey... I'm sorry for sounding so...dumb...
Last edited by QuickPaws; 09-01-2009 at 06:59 PM. Reason: T-stat from O'reillys
09-02-2009, 09:26 AM
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@ The clogged radiator - Would I still get water through it with the lower hose off when filling it? I plugged the lower with my hand, and filled it up through the filler cap until it was full, and it all drained out the bottom.
09-02-2009, 02:53 PM
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Did t-stat with jiggler on top, new gasket, cleaned out the hoses, replaced the two that were broken, put it all back together, and filled it with just water to hopefully flush everything out.
Turned it on, it took a normal amount of time to warm up ( revved engine @ 1000-1500 rpm's and it prolly took 5-7 minutes or so, then I was able to drive around up and down hills in the local neighborhood ( with the trailer ) and it got warm again. I'm waiting for it to cool now so I can drain it and refill it with coolant and water to see if it changes things. Thing that worries me is I'm STILL not getting even warm air off my heater, even after it was hot. And after I parked it, it was still bubbling into the reserve tank.
The one thing I can think of is maybe by pass the heater core in general... From what I remember reading in places here was that you can just loop hoses to by pass it. I'm sorry I'm stressing out, and sounding desperate, but I have 5 hours before I have to leave, we were only supposed to be guests here...
Turned it on, it took a normal amount of time to warm up ( revved engine @ 1000-1500 rpm's and it prolly took 5-7 minutes or so, then I was able to drive around up and down hills in the local neighborhood ( with the trailer ) and it got warm again. I'm waiting for it to cool now so I can drain it and refill it with coolant and water to see if it changes things. Thing that worries me is I'm STILL not getting even warm air off my heater, even after it was hot. And after I parked it, it was still bubbling into the reserve tank.
The one thing I can think of is maybe by pass the heater core in general... From what I remember reading in places here was that you can just loop hoses to by pass it. I'm sorry I'm stressing out, and sounding desperate, but I have 5 hours before I have to leave, we were only supposed to be guests here...
09-02-2009, 06:38 PM
#32
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I sent you a PM with my phone number. Give me a call tonight up to about 10:00pm or so, or in the morning. I can come over tomorrow as I'm off all day. (Except from 11:00 to noon so I can attend my daughter's teacher conference.)
Unfortunately, there aren't too many options left. If coolant is circulating and the heater valve is open, then the heater should put out heat even if the radiator is blocked.
Here are the possibilities that I can think of:
1. Disintegrating hoses have sent rubber chunks through the cooling system and plugged up both the radiator and heater core.
2. The water pump has failed and isn't pumping coolant anymore.
It is possible that the valve that opens and closes with the heat lever has broken. There is a cable that goes from the heater control in the dash to a valve on the firewall that may have broken or come loose. I can check that for you.
If the cores are plugged we can remove the radiator and get it cleaned and repaired at at Walker Radiator (I've had several done there.) The heater being blocked won't affect the engine cooling and can be fixed at a later time. They can usually get it done in one day if it's brought in by 9:00 or so.
If the water pump is toast we will need to remove the timing belt to get to it. I have plenty of time this week to do any work that needs to get done.
I have any tools that we would need.
Let me know what you want to do.
Take care,
Bugs
Unfortunately, there aren't too many options left. If coolant is circulating and the heater valve is open, then the heater should put out heat even if the radiator is blocked.
Here are the possibilities that I can think of:
1. Disintegrating hoses have sent rubber chunks through the cooling system and plugged up both the radiator and heater core.
2. The water pump has failed and isn't pumping coolant anymore.
It is possible that the valve that opens and closes with the heat lever has broken. There is a cable that goes from the heater control in the dash to a valve on the firewall that may have broken or come loose. I can check that for you.
If the cores are plugged we can remove the radiator and get it cleaned and repaired at at Walker Radiator (I've had several done there.) The heater being blocked won't affect the engine cooling and can be fixed at a later time. They can usually get it done in one day if it's brought in by 9:00 or so.
If the water pump is toast we will need to remove the timing belt to get to it. I have plenty of time this week to do any work that needs to get done.
I have any tools that we would need.
Let me know what you want to do.
Take care,
Bugs
09-04-2009, 12:59 PM
#33
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Fixed!!
Seems to be fixed. We are still here in NM, but are leaving tonight between 10-11. I've been driving around with the trailer, and everything seems to be fine. Before I started a afternoon drive today, I checked the coolant, was a little low so I just topped it off. Didn't go above mid mark an entire drive that normally would have caused me to pull over and sit or turn the truck off and cost probably at least twice.
Much thanks to Bugs who helped me out alot.
An 80% clogged radiator.
Bugs, thanks again.
Much thanks to Bugs who helped me out alot.
An 80% clogged radiator.
Bugs, thanks again.
09-04-2009, 01:17 PM
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aye just wondering,since im having a lil trouble my self, u said u never let it go past the top white line into red zone, so it never actually was over heating.
k so first question did u ever hear water/coolant boiling in your overflow?
and was your clutch fan engaging when you needed it to? or do you have something besides a clutch fan?
k so first question did u ever hear water/coolant boiling in your overflow?
and was your clutch fan engaging when you needed it to? or do you have something besides a clutch fan?
09-04-2009, 03:03 PM
#35
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Seems to be fixed. We are still here in NM, but are leaving tonight between 10-11. I've been driving around with the trailer, and everything seems to be fine. Before I started a afternoon drive today, I checked the coolant, was a little low so I just topped it off. Didn't go above mid mark an entire drive that normally would have caused me to pull over and sit or turn the truck off and cost probably at least twice.
Much thanks to Bugs who helped me out alot.
An 80% clogged radiator.
Bugs, thanks again.
Much thanks to Bugs who helped me out alot.
An 80% clogged radiator.
Bugs, thanks again.
Take care,
Bugs
09-21-2009, 05:36 AM
#38
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Seems to be fixed. We are still here in NM, but are leaving tonight between 10-11. I've been driving around with the trailer, and everything seems to be fine. Before I started a afternoon drive today, I checked the coolant, was a little low so I just topped it off. Didn't go above mid mark an entire drive that normally would have caused me to pull over and sit or turn the truck off and cost probably at least twice.
Much thanks to Bugs who helped me out alot.
An 80% clogged radiator.
Bugs, thanks again.
Much thanks to Bugs who helped me out alot.
An 80% clogged radiator.
Bugs, thanks again.
09-25-2009, 06:43 AM
#39
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aye just wondering,since im having a lil trouble my self, u said u never let it go past the top white line into red zone, so it never actually was over heating.
k so first question did u ever hear water/coolant boiling in your overflow?
and was your clutch fan engaging when you needed it to? or do you have something besides a clutch fan?
k so first question did u ever hear water/coolant boiling in your overflow?
and was your clutch fan engaging when you needed it to? or do you have something besides a clutch fan?
Sorry.. super delay... been busy.
Yeah, it was boiling over into the overflow.
All other things were fine. It was def. the radiator.
Also, recently flushed heater core ( main, not the rear ) I have heat again! YAY!
09-25-2009, 07:28 AM
#40
Hey Quickpaws-
Glad you got it fixed. I had a clogged radiator on my 87 Runner 22RE auto with 210k miles on it. But, apparently, all of the heat cycling was just too much for the head gasket and about 1 week later the HG blew (between cyl 3 and 4).
By the way, I bet it was starting to over-heat at speed...perhaps after being on the highway for a few minutes. A common symptom of a radIATOR ISSUE.
ZUK
Glad you got it fixed. I had a clogged radiator on my 87 Runner 22RE auto with 210k miles on it. But, apparently, all of the heat cycling was just too much for the head gasket and about 1 week later the HG blew (between cyl 3 and 4).
By the way, I bet it was starting to over-heat at speed...perhaps after being on the highway for a few minutes. A common symptom of a radIATOR ISSUE.
ZUK
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